Davalos

Got any pics? I went thru this & ended up with some Yakimas ... I'd be curious to see how yours ended-up. Where did you get them?

Not Snow ... but ice:

Now THAT is a friggin' cool idea! Yeah, I thought about that ... I was thinking K.I.T. from Knight Rider, hehe - but yeah, I like the fluidity of the Cylon Faceplate better - the LED look is way '70s ... I wonder if they make that kind of car alarm ...

I think I'm giving-up on my dash-clock. I've pulled it, examined it, soldered it, replaced it, etc ... all to either temporary or no results. And I see here by reading the archives that I'm not alone. Fuji shouldda maybe let someone else handle the 'ole clock design, eh? Well, I'm looking for creative things to do with the hole. It's a neat hole, clean, and the cover is still good. I suppose I could just stuff all the wires back in there and just say "She dont' work!" but for some reason I got an itch... which usually gets me into trouble. Here are some (maybe even stupid) things I thought of ... LEDs for Alarm (fake or not fake) LED Tach Stereo component of some kind (I have an S-50 in there now) Go to my dollar store and buy one of those stick-on LCDs, hehe What creative uses for those 4 wires have you seenor heard? What have YOU done?

The big difference is the Turbo ... I thought I had the reference chart ... but I can't find it right now - I'll dig it up. 23 spline is ALMOST always the non-turbo. But there are 1 or 2 exceptions. Give me an hour - I'll dig it up

I've heard that GCKs are a highly acclaimed axle. I just did both mine, but unfortunately, GCK is out of the non-turbo axles ... so unless you have a supplier that has a stash, you'll be out of luck for awihle - I ended up going with MW Enterprises ones from Colorado - I paid $10 each for them, new. I was pretty happy with their quality - time will tell how well they perform - so far, so good.

If you're doing that, then get some foberglass tape & wrap him once around - it'll give your JB-Weld something to hold onto, and then go over him a 2nd time as a top-coat - you can also get some liquid wirenut stuff when you're done to put a "ruberized coating" over it. That outta keep'im tight for awhile ...

Didn't lose them ... they just don't really seem to be holding like I'd like to see ... and I'm the kinda guy who likes to 'replace when in-doubt at all' - But then again, that's why I decided to WAY over-do it on the bearings ... here are the prices I paid for the bearings: Front Inner Bearing - $13 ea. Front Outer Bearing - $13 ea. Front Inner Seal - $8 ea. Front Outer Seal - $5 ea. Rear Inner Bearing - $10 ea. Rear Outer Bearing - $17 ea. Rear Seal - $8 ea. So that's $74 per side - $156.88 with tax. Someone kill me ...

Do these things have a choke-pulloff? ...

Hey ... now that I think about it ... Does anyone know where a good place to get the lock washers for the rear drums (they fit between the axle nuts and the washer ... my local dealer's computer says the part is "Obsolete" and "no longer available"

Yeah - I was a little scared when I got the old gasket off ... it was a real bítch - and I was a little rough and violent by the time I got it all off, plus wire-wheeling, etc. I took a straight-edge to it when I was done, and went !!!! So I tapped it back to as flat as I could (which was kinda hard considering the whacky contours of the pan itself...), and did an OEM Subaru gasket (which really REALLY didn't look like it was meant perfectly to fit - why don't they use a rubber one?) ... so yeah - I made the executive decision to go with some sealant as well. then I was really REEEEEEELY careful in the tightening ... So now my fingers are crossed - doesn't look like you can even GET to 25% of those bolts without lifting that motor if I have to correct a leak .... ugh! My landlady is chomping at the bit right now ... hehe.

Holy crap!

That wouldn't be a ... that'd be more like If it's a changer, keep in mind you don't need to get to it very often ... andyou want to put it in a place where you can't see it from outside very easily. I have seen them mounted on the support rails of the ceiling - have to deal with hiding wiring, tho. Kinda like a TV console for the back-seat.

Yeah - still got grease grimed-into my palms - I think I spent more time cleaning parts than anything else ... Tranny would throw me off, I think. Anything South of the clutch intimidates me. And wiring messes with me, too - I don't know why. I can take a house & wire it from the triplex drops to the outlets in 240v & 120v ... but for some reason, the wiring in cars focks with me ... I did the same thing with my '86 F-150 ... I have like $6k into that. But it's running to this day, and I actually spent the $2k on body parts ... that's where I'm gonna learn welding & bodywork ... a rough finish is what I wanti the truck. Then, if I get good at it, I'll go ahead & do the Loyale. I think if I have one, my only regret is that I started with a 2WD, not a 4WD ... Any good place for Roll-Pins? The dealer says they're obsolete.

Yep - you're right about that. The Oil pump is OEM. There are some things I didn't want to skimp on, for sure. Axles, brakes, oil pump, calipers for exmaples. So when asked, I opted for new rather than reman. I generally spread the prices around between 3 main suppliers and went with lietime warrranty 1st, and then sorted by price after that. Wow, you got all 8 bearings & seals for $50? That's pretty awesome! Even still, had I gotten everything at 40% less than what I paid, I'd still be lookin' at a grand ...

That's what *I* Call STOOOPID!!! Valve Cover gaskets $28.00 Crank Seal (both Sides) $13.00 Oil Pan Gasket $13.00 Timing Belt Cover gaskets $43.01 O-rings dipstick & neck $0.70 Cam Seals (both sides) $15.00 Thermostat Gasket $1.00 Clutch, throwout bearing $110.00 Oil Pump $133.56 Water Pump $46.98 Timing Belts & equilizer $65.00 Fuel Filter $12.00 New Axles (+ shipping) $240.00 Ball Joints - both sides $42.00 Outer Tie Rod ends - both sides $44.00 Wheel Bearings & seals $115.00 Rotors $51.96 New Loaded Callipers $144.00 Flywheel Machining $45.00 Wheel Bearings & seals $131.88 Rear Drums & Shoes $29.50 Wheel Cylinders (both) $18.00 Cap/Rotor, plugs, tune-up parts $56.55 Thermostat $8.99 Oxygen Sensor $18.99 All radiator & heater hoses $35.37 TOTAL $1,444.49 That's $1500 in parts for a car I paid $500 for ... hmmm. Lets' see - throw-in another $400 for tires, rear struts, starter, alternator, belts, etc... and then another $500 in speakers, head unit, satelite ... Someone shoot me now! hehe! Heh ... I admit, it's a little over-kill, but I like to know what I have. You should see what I put into my $250 F-150, hehe! But it can sit there for 3 months in 5 degree weather & I can get in & turn that key - POW! Every single time. BaddaBoom. No regrets ... unless I screwed-up the oil pan gasket & it still leaks on my landlady's driveway. THEN I'm gonna be pissed (and executed).

Yeah .. that's the way they came ... mixed emotions about those ... hehe. I got them from the MW Enterprises place - they are pretty nice. They came blue, ok - whatayagonnado? Had to take some of the paint off where the spline went thru the bearings & rotors ... didn't want it to rub off & give me probems. But for $100 bucks a pop on new ones, I think I did pretty well.\ Before Tranny After Tranny Shouldda thought these pics out & gotten the same angles ... it really is amazing what you can do with a few cans of engine cleaner and the willingness to withstand serious back-splash of the power-washer. Damn, there's a lot of nooks & crannies in that tranny!

Well, I've been talking about it for MONTHs, and now I'm actually putting my money where my mouth is (and yeah, it's a LOT of money!). Took my '90 Loyale over to my buddy's garage with a whole trunk-full of parts ... Remove Motor & Trans Re-Seal entire motor - Valve covers - Crank Seal (both Sides) - Oil Pan Gasket - Timing Belt Cover gaskets (all 7 of the figgin' things!) - O-rings for dipstick and dipstick neck - Cam Seals (both sides) - Thermostat Gasket New Clutch, throwout bearing New (Subaru) Oil Pump & sending unit, gaskets New Water Pump New Timing Belts & equilizer New Fuel Filter New (not Rebuilt) Axles (both) Ball Joints - both sides Outer Tie Rod ends - both sides Inner & outer Bearings & seals (both sides - front) Rotors New Loaded Callipers Inner & outer Bearings & seals (both sides - rear) Rear Drums & Shoes Wheel Cylinders (both) Cap/Rotor Thermostat Oxygen Sensor All radiator & heater hoses, bypass hose (the elbow thingie), plus new clamps everywhere I think that might be it ... In the process, I power-washed the entire motor, trans, chassis, everything. There is not a spec of grease, grime, or dust anywhere on the motor, trans, chasis, suspension, or anywhere you look. Any part that could be removed and wire-wheeled/painted got the treatment. Hell, I almost sprayed the callipers yellow, hehe! But I resisted. Before Chasis After Chasis Those pics didn't come out as good as I wanted ... but trust me - it's friggin' SHINEY! So far, it's taken about a week, with the 2 of us workin' for like 5-6 hours each night. Starting to wrap things up - looking for leaks & such. So far so good! But MAN that timing was a real Bítch! No WAY we would have figured it out without the help printed here ... so THANKS!! Still not sure if we have it 100% right for the most power. Oh yeah - and I'm replacing the dome light, hehe. Between the slipping clutch, the messed-up timing, the and the stuck left calliper, it's probably going to be lke driving a race car compared to what it was, hee hee! Any suggestions on other stuff I should do while I'm here? Already did alternator, starter, belts, battery, etc. Next is Seafoam & Deisel Trick (but I have to admit, the cams, the oil pan, etc were all WAY more clean that I expected for 165k!) I'm a little scared to add-up how much in parts I've got myself into ...

Holy Crap!!!!! Dude, those shocks are workin' pretty hard, heh!!!

You should be able to do it by yourself if you can get out the rotors & callipers. I just did both my axles. Wasn't too bad. I added the bearings & seals, ball joints, tie rod ends, rollpins, etc. while I was there. I got the axles for $100 (new ... and yes, AutoZone has rebuilds for $60, but I have seen lots of peeps warn against them - I took their advice.). I got ball joints for $18 and tie rod ends for $20 each. I figure while you got it off, go for it. Bearings weren't expensive, but it's 2 bearings and 2 seals per-side (both front & rear), so it adds up kinda fast. Those are the harderst (at least it was for me).

Have you considered the Deisel Trick?, in case they're clogged with goo?

Sweeet! I'd like to see pics of that. I'd ALSO like to see some pics of this motor in the airplanes I'm hearing about ...

Don't quote me on this (I just got done doing the fronts - haven't done the rears). There are 2 bearings and 2 seals, if I am correct. In the front, I had to pop-out the bearings, there was a spacer in there as well - no ring - nothing. Kinda like the old VWs I used to see ... if the rear is anything like the front, get out the bearing grease & getta-packin'. But like I said, I haven't done my rears yet - did the fronts today (and there are 2 bearings & 2 seals per side up there, too).

Maybe I should toss the bolts at the counter-guy who sold me the gaskets ...

Does this mean I should take BACK the $84 gasket set I bought? ... I have never spent so much money on such a small bag of teeenie weenie little gaskets in my life! That would make my day, and I'd use the money to buy a PS Pump ... Q? ... What if you're like me kinda anal like me and you like to power-wash the motor on occasion? ... I assume simply wet is not a problem?