Davalos

Rough numbers, how much is a complete seal kit running these days from the Dealer? And does that include the oil pan?

I think all motors should be equipped with a sight-glass so we anal-retentive folks can see inside, so we're not always obsessing about whether or not the motor is clean enough, hehe! Hey Daeron - which vacuum tube do you use?

Yknow what? After I saw this thread, i have been thinking about doing my Deisil Oil Trick and thinking the same thing myself ... Which comes 1st, the chicken or the egg?

Bump!

Dude, that sucks!!!!! Nothing worse than wiping your hands clean & getting the grease out from underneath your fingernails, turning the key with that semi-nervous smile, and realizing that all the work you just did might have been for naught. And even WORSE is the experience of going the the EXACT SAME THING momentarily to acieve the very thing that in your opinion should already be done! Ugh! Been there, Dude. Sucks rump roast. Honestly, for me, sometimes it's good just to take a break - not think about it for a bit, and then get back to it - it's a pick-me-up that often you need. If you've got someone with a good Subie-brain who can go-over what you did, that's also a good help - plus, it's moral support, which you might need more than anything else right now ... if you've got a power washer, you can blast-off the manifold & see if it's still leaking there. Sounds like just one of those "DOH!" things we've all been thru @ one point or another.

I went from a 1991 E350 to my 1990 Loyale as my main work vehicle (if you can imagine that), and I gotta admit, the more I have it, the more I like is. As soon as I figured out this airplane motor hiding underneath the spare tire in there... I echo the alternator recommendation - make sure you pull the cable or save-up for some fusible links. Just take it to your local Pep-Boys (or whatever), they printed me-up a great detailed report. Certainly a good place to start

Ack ... My sube looks kinda almost identical to that one ...

Doh!

Yeah, well, he should still disconnect the battery 1st, hehe.

Same thing happened to me just a few weeks ago - lucky for me, I was an MT, so I could push-start it - about 50% of the time. I would pull the alternator and have it tested, Even if it's new. It's freaky, but it happens that they're bad out of the box - especially if it's rebuilt. The guy at the parts shop (altough he's been wrong before) says when the reman things, they sometimes replace just what's wrong, and not complete rebuild. I was totally unaware of that (and like I said, he might be full of it). In my case, the new starter was (presumably) bad. I had replaced the alternator, the starter, the battery terminals & both battery cables. I also got a test light and tested the lead to the starter from the key switch. Everything seemed ok, so I talked the guy into ordering another starter. When I switched it out (I have to say, I'm getting' pretty good at it - I can get the complete switch in like 15 minutes), I've had no problems since. Doesn't sound like your problem is the starter - I'd go with the Alternator like some of the other folks say - that would explain the slow drain. And yes, even if you just replaced it. They do come bad out of the box. It doesn't hurt to replace the wires, either. One was a 36" and one was a 42" if I remember. Clean the crap out of your terminal connectors also (esp if you have a side-terminal battery) - sometimes that does it. Whatever you do, disconnect the battery before you out a wrench near that alternator - it's a really tight fit in there, the those fusible links are expensive as Hell.

Sweet - and I echo the thanks from above!

I've never done any mods ... sorry! Have you tried searching the boards? There is a LOT of stuff here! When I 1st got here, I dind't quite get the search feature, and I'd blurt out a question only to have osmeone say "Duh! ... "Usually, I do some searching & I ususally find some kind of answers.

Here ya go ... Now bring out the Arc-Welder.

Ok ... fair enough. Sucks, but it happens ... so I guess I have an OEM Axle for sale, lol. Now - looks like I'm shoppin' for some rebuilts ... Cardone and USA Industries both make rebuilts ... $65 bones a side. Any reason to (or NOT to) do both of them at the same time while I'm droppin' stuff?

Okay, I'm about to crack open this axle ... and I think I may have goofed. I have a '90 Loyale MT2WD non-turbo. And this is the Axle I scored off of Ebay. Definitely 3 paddings on the shaft, and definitely 25 Splines inside there, according to the page Turbone gave. Here's the label off the box: The Manual and some peeps tell me it's for a Turbo only? But others tell me it's fine. If what I'm reading in the maual is correct, there is no such thing as a non-turbo with 25 splines on the inner sleeve, correct? My parts guy comes up with the exact same part number for both the 2wd and 4wd .. ugh! It's gonna really suck to have this thing pulled apart & dropped & not have the right part for 2 more days ...

Wow ... just spent a little bit of time looking for my rim options ... not too much out there eh? that 4x140 is kinda a funky pattern.

Yeah ... I think I'm gonna get him some rock ... I went out today and full-cranked the wheels in both directions, and yeah - sure seemed like there was plenty of room - there is less than a 3/4" height difference between the 2 sizes ... Has anyone done the 14's in the back and 13's in the front with the 2WD?

Are we talking 13"s or something larger? My Tire guy swears up & down that 175-80R13s will rub against the wheel wells on my sock 2wd Wagon on a full-turn. I didn't even think about the back ...

Your punishment for being off-topic shall be ... Find out what "water-silicone" is ... hehe

I might be into it @ $300, but I highly doubt a short mill-run could be done @ $75 a pop, unless you had someone with off-hours access to both the facilities & the blocks & a VERY understanding super. ... by the way, is that what we have? 4X140s? I looked in the manual & couldn't find that spec ...

Yep - I might be junkyarding it this weekend anyway for some other stuff. Yeah - they're really small - I'm thinking like a small-clawed nail puller. IF you look closely, it looksl ike the bottom has got some kind of sheet metal reinforcement in there. Maybe if I get behind that ... I'll mess with the dead one before awhile before I try & tackle a JY one ... I am realizing that I may have torn mine simply by getting out of the car once and snagged my back against the pillar. Gurilla Glue, eh? I sure have plenty of that .. . seems like the expansion might deform it ... I was thinking 100% silicone ... we'll see how it goes.

Does anyone know of a good source (and PLEASE don't tell me 'The Dealer,' hehe!); for the moulding around the doors? Mine tore recently, and I've been kinda pushing it in haphazardly ever since ... but winter's coming, and I wanna stay toasty & not have all the road-noise. The clips that are there are like little "button" types - any special tool needed for those? The manual isn't specific on that ... And WHAT in the world is "water silicone"? The Subaru Manual mentions that a lot, but I have no idea what that is. I'm sure I could do the the J-Yard, but Rubber is Rubber, and it just breaks down eventually ...

Let me know if these are good enough res. If not, I can scan them again in higher res & email them to you ...

I have the wiring diagrams for a '90 Loyale ... does that help? Which diagram? I am assuming you want the 4WD-mT Circuit Control, is that what you need??

Hmm ... that's weird. I'll have to look again - when I switched from the lights that were there to the new lights I bought, I was prepared to do a bunch of wiring & drilling, etc. I've inistalled lots of these. But it was all in-place, and in the carriers, etc. Usually, I can see if someone has gotten out the drill. Same thing with the mirrors - I have non-power mirrors, and when I switched them, I noticed the wiring was in there - just not connected to anything. Interesting. Is some of this stuff dealer-installed pre-delivery??