Davalos

Heh heh ... Oops! I forgot to read the manual! Anyway, yeah, I just looked at the guy and said "Yeah? Expand THIS!", did my gesture, and then got outta there before he called the cops...

Okay, to make sure I have this straight: The code 34 is a "fluke" ... kinda. Meaning, it's not the EGR valve, or its operation, it's simply an electrical "bug" that the solenoid is throwing out in error. There is really nothing mechanically wrong. The fix described in this thread is merely to turn off the light, not to fix whatever the solenoid is supposed to be doing. Fixing whatever the solenoid is supposed to be doing has no benefit, other to the environment. If replacing the solenoids don't fix it, it's the wiring to the solenoids that are the problem, and that is why the resistor-fix is suggested. Replacing the EGR Valve itself will not help, and has no benefit. There are no gas mileage benefits, no performance benefits, no benefits whatsoever to the driver or the car. The only disadvantage to putting a piece of tape over the light is that if anything other than "Code 34" comes up, I won't see it. Leave it alone, Davalos, we are all sick of this topic. These are all correct? Because if so, I'm gonna spend my time on the dash-clock instead ... that'll benefit me in that it'll tell me how much TIME i'm spending on this thing, hehe!

Yeah, I do that too - and comparing it to a from-empty-to-full fillup, I'm sure id doesn't make THAT much difference when calculating mileage. I mentioned it because I was doing (what I thought was gonna be) 2 gallons, and it clicked right at 1.25 ... I managed to squeeze in more. I haven't got to the point where it spills over, but it looks like there is a supplemental overflow down there anyway. Someone once told me the gas needs a place to expand & contract, but I dididn't buy it then, I can't think of a reason to buy it now. The guy who told me was the guy who worked at the gas station, and he had a funny haircut. The TRUE test will be a trip to Chicagp or something where I just pop it to 65mph for 4 hours straight & do it that way. I gotta make sure she's mechanically ready for that 1st. ... Omg, I just called my Subaroo a "she". Someone kill me now.

Hey Russ: I would totally buy it. I'd be all over that. Have you done anything like this before? The reason I ask that is the challenge with these kinds of things is production value. It's MUCH more difficult than you probably think. For a low-to-midgrade production value, figure 90 minutes of time per minute of end-footage. "low-to-midgrade" means no music, kinda lousy lighting, rough cuts, continuity issues, etc etc etc. If you want to bump-up the production value, you're talking double, maybe triple that. Then you have editing issues, crew issues (you'd need 3-4 people to 'do it right' animation/graphics, etc., Plus licensing any music. That's what people would expect for $20 bones. And the people who would buy it would be people like me - weekend-mechanic-types who know enough to have some tools, but not enough to It'd be like me ordering a DVD on how to tile a bathroom - I'd be like "what, are you kidding me?" But there are TONs of people who would pay $10-$20 to do it. Just depends on the level. You could potentially make a 'beginners' and an "advanced" level, too. I've produced film and video, and it's NOT as easy as people think. I'd take his advice above and do ONE of them for now - say, an oil change. Something easy, something simple, almost as a 'throw-away' topic - "how to change the air filter" or "How to change a tire" - something obvious and easy. Then put it out there for people to watch and give feedback. You basically put it out there and say "Tear it up" and we give you 'feedback' and "try this" or "do that" or "I didn't like this" or "It would be great if you had _____". That's the part where you sit back & say "thanks for the feedback" while you tink to yourself "Holy crap, do you have any idea know how hard that would be?" But that's what your customer would want... Remember who your audience is, also - who buys & owns these? Design it to fit that thinking-mode. If Dr.s and Lawyers were your customers your final result should be different than if punk-kids were the owners.

Heh ... wow. Guess that part went riiiiiight by me, hehe! That would put it right about the time of the Jesus Toast, tho, eh?

OKAY!! Just did a "base test" ... From what thought was almost dead-empty (light was on for awhile), I filled-up today: 161,307.4 on the Odo 325.1 miles driven 12.27 Gal 26MPG, or about. That was for me just driving around, doing what I do, TALKING about gas mileage. Within 5 miles of filll-up today, I decided to go return a refrigerator in Livonia (about 30 miles away), so I loaded-up, made the round-trip, and filled-up again, just so see what would happen. So below is me on the expressway with a refrigerator in the back in construction topping at 65 and almost full-stopping it occasionally. Non-Expressway driving on the way back. 161,370.2 on the Odo 62.8 miles driven 1.65 Gal 38MPG, or about. YEAH BABY!!!! The main weak point in this little quickie experiment is that I am HOPING I "topped off" the tank in the same manner both times today - there's like 1/4 gallon I could probably vary between waiting for the 1st "Click" at the pump. So I need to do more solid xpressway driving to make this good. Obvously, this isn't fool-proof-accurate, but it's certainly a good starting point! NOW! Off to the mods! The improvements I mentioned up there. Let's see what this baby can do!

Oh Man!!! This listing (2450494975) has been removed or is no longer available. Please make sure you entered the right item number. Damn, I wish I couldda seen this. Is this like the Jesus French Fries? ...

Okay, so I need to be treated like a 10 year old here ... This procedure is the same as just putting a piece of electrical tape on this light when it comes to Code34: EGR Curcuit. Correct? When I clear the code, the light goes off - if I do it by the connectors, or by disconnecting the battery, the light stays off for the 12st 5 minutes or so. Then, something happens, and the light goes on. And it stays on permanently. Now, WHAT is happenning? I am assuming the EGR valve is openning (or closing?), as it probably should. And then something happens (and I assume it has to do with the EGR Solenoid). The Dealer tells me replacing the EGR doesn't stop the code. They also tell me it makes NO DIFFERENCE AT ALL on gas mileage, performance etc etc. When I tell them about the solenoid trick, they just kinda say "Well, I wouldn't do that, but that wouldn't make any difference either. I'm having a rough time getting my brain around the concept of something having no purpose. Is the EGR solenoid the Tonsils of a Subaru? Again, forgive me for being dense about this, but I just don't get it. I have SO much time into this, and I'm coming to the conclusion that I have done pretty much nothing ... AND nothing really needed to be done, and there is no benefit whatsoever by fixing this problem? Let me try it another way: if money were absolutely NO object, what would be the correct fix, and would the fix merely be 'shutting off the light'? rather than any beneficial result? ...

Hell, she should be paying YOU the $50 bucks! She would have paid a mechanic more than that to get it started, plus the tow, etc. So in principal, you got ROBBED! Hehe. But in reality, you got it for a STEAL! How's the body? Interior? Make us all jealous! heheh,

I once got OUT of a speeding ticket by telling the judge that my speedomerter was off because i had on larger diameter tires on my Maverick. I did some math for him & we discovered that it was like a 9mph difference between what I THOUGHT I was going, and what he pulled me over for ... so the judge bumped the ticket down a notch & asked me if I was planning on going to Law School. I said "Your Honor, I applied to Law School ... but then they found out my parents were married." He gave me a confused look for a second, then said it was time for me to leave. ... would it less off-topic if I made the Vmax pic smaller? heh heh .... :cool:

'90 Loyale Wagon 2WD no mods, pansy tires. I'm embarrassed to say I haven't taken mine over 70, because the motor sounds like it's going to tear itself thru the firewall and push me into the Next World. When I want to go fast, I hop on my Vmax. Stage-7 carbs, Cobra 4:4 exhaust, Vboost, 168 hp on the dyno, and 0-60 in 2.3 seconds. I have burried it many times, with plenty more room on the throttle, but I ran out of room in the Balls Department.

Sweeeeet!!! An 1:12 from start to finish, including removing the spare & bracket, wiring, etc. I put a continuity test on the wires & decided they were ok. Popped everything back in, and POW!!!! Fired-right-up! Sweeeeet! In the 3 days that the Soob was down I went thru $55 in gas in the E350 ... for the same amount of drivin - even at these prices. Daamn, talk about appreciation! So now I should seriously look (from the preventative standpoint) at adding a relay, eh? Where do I go for such a relay?

I'm jealous! How long did it take you?

Wow, DaveT - you're not kidding on that 17mm nut ... wow! Still don't have the starter off, but I started with the wires, as suggested. Okay, I have a ?? ... I took the wires from the battery to the engine (ends-up right next to the starter) and then took off the positive cable - both wires look fine to me. No corrosion, nothing that would give me cause for worry. but BOY, someone is serious about protecting these wires! There 's an extra insulation casing around the negative cable There's a currogated casing around the positive cable The Positive & negative, and their respective casings are taped together with enough plastic tape to choke an elephant. Plus, There is a stand-of bracket (not connected in my case) which looks like is mounts to the spare tire support bracket that grabs the whole mess and holds it up in a deliberate routing path. Someone REALLY is looking after these wires. What's the Dilly-Yo? Is that just a really anal-retentive battery cable guy, or is there something I don't know about Subarus and wires? Kinda looks like it's a bad idea to just 'play it safe' and go to my parts store & get a similar gauge & length of starter cable ... Like i said, both of these look good. Any tests I can put these thru now that I have them off, besides clean them up? And if they're good, I next test the key signal wire, yes? I'm saving the starter for last, since as soon as I install the new one, it's not returnable.

I swear, I learn more here than I did in school! I just picked-up a gallon of Acetone ... trying it for mileage - I'll report back with my results ...

Sweet - thanks!

Figures ... heh. Just replaced my alternator this week with a 60A, which I considered to be anemic. :-\

So depressuerizing the system is the key here? Just the fuse should do it? What about re-starting? Will the pump prime everytihng itself, or does it need help?

Ok, just picked-up a Cap & Rotor, Fuel Filter (huge!) Anything to know in switching the fuel filter out? Looks kinda too easy ... any why does it sit so high? Do I need to prime it, fill it with gas before I place it? Any not-in-the-books tricks I need to know?

I don't know about the '85 ...but I have a '90 with some plastic connectors - green and white. The manual tell you which ones ... Folks - don't let me steer this person wrong if my Soob is way different. I can just hear it now: "Davalos, you $#&%#, my car caught on fire!!"

Has anyone tried or noticed this? As I am filling-up my Soob, I quite literally feel the car sagging incrementally as the gas goes in. No, I'm serious. I discovered this by accident, and it was the freakiest thing. I was leaning against the car slightly once when I was filling up, and I felt a little 'nudge' of the car taking a small drop. very subtle, but then again I noticed it about 15 seconds later - and again ... and again. It didn't hit me right away what is was until I thought about it later as I was driving, so I tried it again the next time. And sure enough - there it was again. One of these times I'm going to put a 6' level on the car and measure it to see exactly how much it sags. But if you think about it, it DOES make some sense - it's about 90-100lbs going from empty to full. I just didn't realize the shocks I have (and they're new) were 'indexed' like that.

When I 1st bought this Puppy, I filled her up - and the 1st tank I wenr thru was 22mpg. In January, I got all this: Air Filter PCV Valve Plugs Plug Wires New Floor mats, hehe I tell people the new floor mats added 1mpg - the other ones had so much dirt in them, they were loadin' me down, haha! I'm stickin' to that story In March I got tires. 165/80R13s for $165, holy crap! I was paying $180 each for my E350! So next should be allignment, some component cleaning & maybe some Seafoam/Lucas. Anything else? I really REALLY need roof-racks, damit! I know this will hurt me a little, but I carry ladders all the time, and it sucks having them bash my shoulders in between the seats.

Awesome suggestions, thanks! You know - I started poking thru the various "miracle pour-ins" the day I started this gas-mileage kick ... I'm inherently skeptical of those "motor-up" infomercial-type hypes, but I read some things that were really good about the Lucas stuff, so I might take a crack at that. I haven't done my Seafoam research - but I'm a clean-FIEND, so that might be another thing to look at. I’ve got really skinny tires (165s) so that helps, but the alignment thing is a snap-of-an-idea. What does throwing back the timing do?

I'd be curious myself ... I'm also thinking about having all the gaskets done to keep the thing from endlessly leaking in my landlady's driveway. She's going to beat me with her sneaker.

Okay, so it's my goal now to get and document 40mph, damit! (heh heh). Incidentally, I did some research & found some things about acetone that I found kinda interesting. Might just try it. I already keep a log of my mileage, but now I'll start adding the circumstances ... I want 40 damit!