porcupine73

I'm not sure what the lighter socket fuse is; probably like 10A or maybe 15A. So it should be able to run say up to a 100W inverter pretty well. Most of the small inverters for laptops are maybe 40-70 watts. A 400 watt inverter, well, that is a little different story when loaded up, and that is why it has clips to hook directly to the battery. Also the inverters are not 100% efficient so they need more input power than the power they are putting out.

The outlet will run the inverter and laptop fine. That isn't too much of a draw. The outlet is fused anyway so if it is too much load it will just pop the fuse. I have an '00obw too; I think I did see another outlet way in the back but I can't remember for sure.

Hello and I don't know what you're looking to spend, but reliability wise an early 90's up to 96 Legacy or Impreza with the 2.2L is probably one of the most solid options. (Just make sure it is all-wheel drive if that's what you want - not all early models were AWD). Mileage-wise you will probably get a little lower mileage with AWD than an FWD or different make that is FWD. But once you drive it in the snow you won't care about that! Also make sure you know what things to look for in test driving (you must test drive a Subaru to check for torque bind before purchasing). I would avoid 2.5L's up to ~99 because of the possibility of head gasket issues (unless the head gaskets were already replaced with the new multi-layer steel type). Also 2.5L's from '00 to ~'03 have the possibility of an external head gasket leak. Also a number of '99 and '00 Outbacks with automatic transmissions have or develop a delayed engagement to drive issue. Those are the major Subaru issues.

I think the band might be a wear indicator or something. Those colored tires g mentioned emit colored smoke when spinning the tires.

I believe on that style you have to push and turn/twist the bulb then you can pull it out. if you can wrangle the rubber boot back that might help to see.

Id try shaking the wheel by hand to feel forany looseness. Then lift front off the ground and see if wheels spin fairly smoothly. Damage to bearing may have occurred with new axle if axle nut was loosened with weight ont the wheel or wheel was on ground ebfore new axle nut was torqued.

I could take a look at if you want...

lol yes all in all I'd say it was a successful day! The real test will be seeing if replacing the main fuse makes the car work again.... else I'll be saying "it seemed like a good idea at the time..."

lol yes it was. Actually the flame happened when I was using a lighter to shrink the heat shrink tubing, which had the liquid tape underneath. Apparentley it turns out their flammable warning on the liquid tape can is indeed a warning and not a dare.

Also note that liquid tape is highly flammable.....but it does make it harden faster.

Here's a couple pictures that led up to blowing the main fuse...thank God for the main fuse!

Right on, the cap has to be in tip top primo condition. When you remove the radiator cap engine cold, is the coolant low, or is it right up there?

Thanks nipper. I thought I saw fuses like this at the chain stores before but I wasn't sure. mm..well hehe, you remember that alternator thread about making sure the grounds were good and alternator connections were good? Well it turns out my alternator + connection and alternator ground are both pretty good..... just not when they're touched together with a screwdriver.

Hi. Anyone know if the main 100 amp fuse (2000 Outback wagon) is a dealer only item? Or can I get it at parts america or autozone or even napa? Ideally I need to get one tomorrow (Sunday) and my local dealers are closed, and the aforementioned vendor web sites are useless in finding this fuse. Thanks! zzz

Sounds good. Plugs would not cause the knock sensor code you are getting. The knock sensor code indicates a problem with the knock sensor circuit. It does not mean the ECU is detecting knock. The knock sensor can look fine but still have issues.

Did the transmission issue start after the new tires were installed? IACV is idle air control valve. Subaru sometimes calls it ISC idle speed control valve. There is an article here on endwrench about cleaning it, but it is for the phase II style which has the IACV intake on the top of the intake manifold (which is not what you have). In this pic, the IACV is right above the circle for the ECTS, right below the hose coming off the PCV valve.

Are there any overdrive pulleys available for these alts? Though the stock alt pulley is pretty small already so not sure it's feasible to use anything smaller.

The Subaru diagram says if at idle with the headlights on, the voltage is between 12.5V and 15.5V then it's OK. But 12.5V does seem low; isn't a fully charged battery like 12.8V? I've been thinking about putting in some 8 ga. additional ground wire, to the AT, block, body, then battery. I did check with a voltmeter to confirm what my gauge was reading, and checked the voltage drop from the alt to the battery, and the battery ground to body, block, etc., while I had every accessory turned on, but didn't see anything over .1-.2V drop.

Unfortunately the auto seat belts still work in my '94 otherwise I would give it a shot!

Whistling sounds can also be dirty IACV. What speed(s) do you hear the whine? Does the AT feel like this? (It's for 4EAT Phase II but I've noticed similar behavior in the phase I's) 2. Shock felt during light acceleration with the Lockup clutch applied. Symptom When the driver tries to lightly accelerate the vehicle, when driving at a constant speed in 4th gear and the Lockup clutch is engaged, they may feel a slight shock through the body of the vehicle. Some customers may compare it to a Manual Transmission vehicle. Mechanism When the accelerator is pressed lightly (approximately 20% or less), the lockup clutch is not released. This causes a direct coupling between the engine and the drive train of the vehicle. The slight shock is from the small clearances in the drive train gears, axle splines, etc. If the lockup clutch is not applied then, the shock is absorbed by the fluid coupling in the torque converter. Under certain conditions, this same shock can also be felt when activating the cruise control. Recommendation Explain to the customer what they are feeling is a normal operation. Basically, the lockup clutch is kept on as much as possible to increase fuel economy of the vehicle. Increasing the engine load (driving on hills or pushing the accelerator more) will disengage the lockup clutch sooner. We recommend you try duplicating this during some of your road testing (PDI) so you are familiar with the sensation. To do this, drive at a constant speed around 40 mph. Confirm that the lockup clutch is applied (use Select Monitor) and accelerate using light throttle. You will feel a slight shock throughout the body of the vehicle.

Hm..interesting nipper. Let us know if the OEM works out better. I've been noticing in '00obw the voltage is usually around 13.3V, but when stopped at idle with a/c on and foot on brake it starts dipping...12.8V, 12.7V, etc. Have seen it get down to 11.6V at long stop lights or stop/go traffic....not sure if this is an oem alternator or not.

Yes I had that problem before too. It takes a number of trips to get all the readiness I/M monitors to set after ECU reset or battery disconnection (or every time you turn the car off if you had a '96). The evap seems to take the longest, probably because of the fair number of conditions that have to be met for it to run that test. Not sure if the scanguage will show the I/M readiness status, but most code readers will.

If you can somehow get your hands on a scangauge, it will tell you what the ECU is reading as the engine coolant temp.

Could be backlash in the system/lockup solenoid activating and deactivating. There is a note about this behavior for the phase II 4EAT (though that's not the AT you have). Is this an AWD vehicle and did this behavior start right after the new tires? Even if not all tires circumference should be measured with a narrow tape measure to be certain they are all within 1/4". Even brand new tires can have differences in circumference.

Yes the front profile is nice too! What kind of camera did you use? Those pictures are exceptionally clear.