porcupine73

Well I'm not sure. The '00obw seems to be running fine. I just recalled the paper towel test today and decided to try it. On the '00obw the paper is definitely sucked slightly back onto the tailpipe, whereas on the '94 as a control it did not exhibit that behavior. Did you try the .avi videos? Even older windows media players should be able to play that I believe.

Hm....well of course the solder needs to get to melting temp to, well, melt. Non heat options maybe try to adhere the wire to the board with super glue or a dab of RTV? If there's a harbor freight near by could probably get a soldering iron for a couple bucks. Maybe someone you know has a soldering iron? I know radio shack for a while had these lighter style soldering strips don't know if they still have those...

Hi, I'm looking for some help interpreting my '00obw exhaust pipe paper towel test results. I saw in some other thread about holding paper towel near the exhaust pipe. If the paper towel seems to get sucked into the exhaust, what does that mean? I happened to have a paper towel at hand today and tried it on '00obw when I got home. It does seem like the paper towel gets sucked into the exhaust. Here is video: Please select format: Apple Quicktime .MOV (download free player - sorry that's what my camera uses) .MOV medium-res (1.3 MB) .MOV hi-rs (8.8 MB) .MOV low-res (0.5 MB) or for Windows Media Player --> MPEG4 (0.4 MB) or .AVI (3.5 MB) Then I did this test on '94 Legacy for comparison. It was a little harder to do the test since '94 Legacy has that dual tip muffler. However '94 Legacy did not seem to suck the paper towel onto the exhaust. Here is video: Please select format: Apple Quicktime .MOV (download free player - sorry that's what my camera uses) .MOV medium-res (1.4 MB) or for Windows Media Player --> MPEG4 (1.4 MB) or .AVI (3.5 MB) So what do you think? If you watch the video for both the '00obw and the '94 Legacy I think the difference is readily noticeable. I could try this test on '96 Legacy too for comparison if needed. Thanks!

Thanks jamal. I'll consider this swap more. This '96 needs timing belt, etc. as well which I bought 2 years ago just haven't had time to put in. I would probably just drop the swap at this point except I already bought the dual pot fronts and rear calipers and spent several hours cleaning them and painting them red with the GR-2 caliper paint.....:-\

Good point; I never see any drips on the garage floor, and I don't notice the diff dipstick level going down. I just figured since I was there if it wasn't hard to do I'd replace it; I'm kind of glad I just left it alone now. It's just it sort of looked like a frosted cake before I cleaned it off.

Check out http://www.subaru.com/owners/schedules/index.jsp

Also might want to check behind the driver's side mirror inside trim piece. The wiring for the power mirror runs behind this piece. Some years/models had an issue with this wiring getting pinched/chafed thus blowing the fuse sometimes repeatedly/intermitently. If all the fuses are known good (and the offending fuse checked with on ohm-meter even if it looks like it didn't blow) then it has to be a wiring/connector issue.

Is your system R12? Some people just put R134A into such a system, though it really should have the Subaru conversion kit used.

Not sure if that vehicle has a knock sensor or not. Your area's octane rating method may differ from the U.S.'s average of the 'motor' and 'research' octane ([R+M]/2) rating. Here's some Subaru knock sensor info to add to the thread: The knock sensor is designed to sense knocking signals from each cylinder. The knock sensor is a piezo-electric element which converts knocking vibrations into electrical signals. The electrical signal is sent to the ECM, which changes the ignition timing to reduce the knock or ping. For this system to work correctly, the sensor must first hear engine ping. The driver of the vehicle may also hear a small engine ping. A of approximately 1-2 seconds is normal, depending on the fuel quality, load, air temp, etc. At this time, the ECM will retard the timing. This function can be viewed on the Select Monitor RTRD mode. When the knock is eliminated, the timing is gradually advanced to the specified setting. engine ping is heard again this process is repeated. This will continue until knock sensor no longer hears the engine knock or ping. Note: this is normal operation of the knock sensor. Do not try to repair it.

The factory tool appears to be 499787000 http://subaru.spx.com/detail.asp?partid=499787000 It seems like those 1/2 or 3/4 ton pickup sockets would work if the size was right so that teeth matched up with the retainer. I know I've seen these at autozone, pepboys, etc.

It's not uncommon for the brakes to be a little sticky after a vehicle sits for a few weeks. Make a few good stops from say 60 to break them back in. Carefully of course. I have been unpleasantly surprised a few times at the brakes not working so well the first few times after the vehicle sat. Then if you are still hearing some weird noise it may need to be looked at. If water got past the rubber accordians between the caliper piston and body, the caliper may have corroded somewhat and may be sticking.

Hm....is this fuse 5? For 2000 Legacy it says to check the tailight bulb sockets for any frayed/loose wiring in the bulb socket itself. Also I know my '94 Leg has this funky relay box in the RH (pass) side rear taillight assembly....maybe that thing is going wacky?

I don't have an o-ring on the driver's side, drive/trans end of the engine. I heard/read the cam is the same on both sides, just installed in reverse, so on the driver's side the cam o-ring is in the cap behind the cam sprocket, and on the passenger's side side the o-ring is at the trans end of the engine. Anyway I wouldn't worry about it, as this o-ring took about 5 minutes to change.

Do you mean the cam cap o-ring at the engine drive end, right (pass) side? There's an o-ring in there, at least on my '94 2.2L...

OK well every couple weeks or so this no crank happens. The last few times it happened, I moved the gear shifter and it seemed like when I started to try to pull it down out of park it started. However I also have had it crank if I just hold the key for like 8 seconds without touching anything. I finally got around to putting an indicator lamp off the starter solenoid connection. I tested it and when it cranks the indicator lamps illuminate. I'm assuming if it's no crank and I don't see the lamps come on, then it is not the starter contacts. If it's no crank and I do see the lamps come on, it is something in the starter, maybe the contacts?

OK great thanks guys. I didn't take retainer off when I did the axle because I wasn't sure what I would be getting into. And I didn't realize at first there was an o-ring in there and if there was I wasn't sure I had one that would fit. I don't like driving seals. It seems like it would be so easy but they always seem to get a little cockeyed on me no matter how careful I am.

Wow that is a cool story. Do you have any pics?

Ok thanks for all the ideas and suggestions. Good points are made all around. Is it a requirement that all vehicles sold in the US now have disc brakes? I mean you still see a number of vehicles that come with rear drum, but fronts are always disc.

That price seems way too high for that vehicle. Definitely check out craigslist. Also yes, that vehicle would has the phase I dohc 2.5L which can be prone to the internal head gasket issue. And you're looking at a large bill to have that fixed or some time if you're going to do it yourself. Unless the HG's already were replaced with the new multilayer steel type. Also check any AWD Subaru for torque bind. If you want something pretty solid that should have findable for not too much cash, check out an earlier 90's Legacy or other Subaru with the 2.2L. Those are pretty solid vehicles and shouldn't have too many surprises.

It only looks clean because I cleaned it before doing the axle. It was pretty caked up with what I assume was gear oil coming out and then getting dusty/dirty making a muck. I bought that black seal but I don't think that's where it's leaking. The nearest I could tell in a diagram was maybe there is an o-ring behind that retainer but I'm not sure. I was thinking a socket like this but I'm not sure what size.

That's a great idea!

Ok yes I guess that would be easy to see! Hm...what is the main purpose of the covers anyway? Is it to protect the belt from water, dirt, etc. Or it is for safety so cats and woodchucks don't get caught in it? I have a badger or woodchuck that's been living under my '94.

mm...the real world, right...often tend to forget about that. The inside would probably get coated with a thin film of oil from the cam or crank seal leaks and the outside would get dirty as well...would need some little windshield wipers inside perhaps.

Hi. I'm assuming you would use one of those 1/2 or 3/4 ton 4WD sockets with those four prongs to get this retainer off the stub shaft? Anyone have any suggested tools? When I replaced the axle, I had that black seal that is over the stub shaft, but I didn't have a tool to get the retainer off. Is there an o-ring or something else behind that retainer? Are there any precautions to take before removing that retainer? Like will some gears fall out or anything if you remove it?

Hi. Anyone ever seen clear timing belt covers for Subaru? I was looking through Sport Compact Car and there was a T*y*ta with clear timing covers and it looked pretty neat. Plus it's functional. Of course they had these nice purple cam sprockets, etc. Or zzz cut out the front of the oem black plastic timing belt cover and rtv some Lexan on there!