porcupine73

Definitely do not suggest doing this. Unless it was something new Subaru put in, I've never seen low coolant level able to trigger the CEL/MIL. Some vehicles have an indicator for low coolant level in the overflow, but I haven't seen it on Subaru's. If the level in the system starts dropping from not getting replenished from the overflow, it can result in localized overheating and if done long enough enough times, HG failure or and even warped heads.

Hi riggyrow and Some have reported this happening on certain Baja's, and it was determined to be coolant gnomes. Some coolant leaks happen only under certain conditions, which can make them hard to find. An easy thing to check would be, when engine is cold, remove radiator cap and inspect. Look underneath all the little rubber parts for grit, etc. Yours is fairly new so rad cap and filler neck should be in good shape but if the cap is faulty it can let coolant leak/drip, usually when engine is hot and hence there is pressure in the system.

Above idle, like driving/cruising, I wouldn't worry about it at all. At idle when underhood temps are high is when the alternator's output capacity is lowest.

Hi fixitguy50 and to the board! This should probably be broken to a separate, new thread. Did your reader come with instructions for any other modes it may have? Not all code readers can do freeze frame data. Many can read the code history of previous codes that set off the CEL/MIL. Connecting the green test mode connectors would not have anything to do with reading code history or freeze frame data. You could try reading live data values with the green test mode connectors connected, if the reader can do it. Acceleration issues could be as simple as faulty knock sensor. For tune up, Soobs like NGK plugs and OEM plug wires. A good seafoaming of the intake might help, and cleaning the throttle body.

I believe that has solid lifters (rather than hydraulic?) Those can tick a little bit until the oil starts to flow into the valve covers.

What accessories are you planning to run at the same time, like heat or air conditioning, headlights, rear defrost? If all those are off it will handle the 20 amp load alright. Also, I am assuming the printer is an inkjet (not laser?) One way to go is install a voltmeter. If while it's sitting there idling, you see the voltage keep dropping you know the alternator can't keep up. Usually you will see maybe 13.4 volts or so, but if it drops to like 12.8...then 12....then 11.7 the load is too high. Not sure how low it can go before the vehicle won't run anymore, but if it drops below 11.5V I would not shut the vehicle off, but rather drive or shut off accessories for a while before shutting off. With radio equipment, the power used when receiving isn't usually excessive, but when transmitting it will eat up some juice.

For wheels, if it's not steel, it's probably aluminum, who knows exactly the alloy. Take a magnet to 'er; obviously any attraction means it's ferous, or what, nickel maybe? Say...you have any copper in your stash?

Yes OEM wires from a Subaru dealer all the way. You're not going to go wrong with the NGK plugs.

Hi rigfennid I have a '94 Legacy too. Specifications RECOMMENDED SPARK PLUGS BRAND --------------------------------- PART NO. NGK BKR6E-11 NIPPONDENSO K20PR-U11 CHAMPION RC7YC-4 STANDARD GAP 0.039 - 0.043in (1.0 - 1.1mm) SPARK PLUG TORQUE 13 - 17 ft lb (18 - 24Nm)

Hi. Yes KYB has many different struts. The general advice is you go with struts from the same MY but from the higher vehicle. Confidence is increased if the strut model spans multiple model years and your model year is well within the band. One big difference between Legacy/Outback and Impreza springs (for U.S. anyway) is the diameter of the spring tops.

Yes I think if the rotors haven't been on too long and/or if you don't live in a salty area, they will come right off. I don't know, these rotors I had to heat with the mapp and use about a 6lb sledge on them. The 8mm holes work great to force the rotor off - if the rotor has the holes. When I put the new rotors on I brushed and cleaned the hub and everything and put a protectant on the interface parts. Those rotors are always free whenever I remove the wheels.

Wow excellent pics. Thanks for doing the pics as attachments so they'll always be here. I'm learning a lot from this thread.

Ok maybe I will try the adjustment. I can see the slotted portion on the switch body with some white mark on it. It has been happening so infrequently it's taken a few months just to pinpoint the issue. I see this is a $100+ item. Now, I may have, um, in the past, soaked down this area with silicone spray and penetrating oil to free up the shifter linkage. Maybe the switch did not like it.... (When it won't crank, there is no power to the starter solenoid.)

Yes I'm sure they could be turned. I was just trying to show how much they can rust in a few weeks. Those would be noisy for a while. I think they're the least expensive rotors from autozone; it was what the used car dealer threw in for 'free'. They don't have the nice 8mm holes to drive them off the hub.

Right on, with NGK spark plugs and OEM plug wires. Are you reading misfire codes via the ODBII?

Okay so finally today it did the no crank again. The lamps I installed did not illuminate, so the issue must lie somewhere upstream of the starter. It started immediately when I put the shifter into neutral, so I suspect maybe the neutral/park switch as someone said might be dirty or out of adjustment? I was looking under there last week and it looks like an exhaust member would have to be dropped to really get access to the switch? I see a position adjustment screw with a white mark on it.

Hi Wayneb. Are you sure the code you are getting is still for the knock sensor? The knock sensor codes never mean the ECU is detecting knock. It means the ECU is detecting an issue with the knock sensor circuit itself, which would be independent of the type of fuel being used. Check out this article for the official Subaru products; there are several for cleaning carbon: Subaru Chemical Products: What to Use Where http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/06SubMayEW.pdf A good seafoaming through a vacuum line atop the intake manifold could help clean up the intake and such. Some throttle body cleaner will clean up the throttle butterfly and is good on the idle air control valve as well. If she's really carboned up, the old method of sucking water slowly in a vacuum line atop the intake manifold is supposed to work quite well.

EndWrench.com has good articles on the 4EAT: Some models have a POWER light located to the left of the tachometer (right on Legacy). It is activated momentarily whenever the vehicle is started. The POWER mode is selected by the computer based upon how quickly the gas pedal is depressed. This changes the performance characteristics of the transmission. i.e., it delays upshifts and may downshift if necessary. When selected, the computer turns the POWER light “ON.” ATF Temperature Sensor When the ATF is hot (AWD only), the TCU shifts the transmission as if in the POWER mode. This pushes the shift points higher which allows the engine to run faster. The oil pump then circulates ATF through the oil cooler more quickly so as not to overheat the engine coolant. Power Indicator Light The POWER Indicator Light is located in the combination meter. It is activated momentarily whenever the vehicle is started as part of the self check system. It turns “ON” when the TCU selects the POWER mode with the vehicle in the “D” range. It blinks a self diagnostic code whenever the TCU is programmed for self diagnosis. The TCU monitors the throttle angle opening speed, i.e., how quickly the gas pedal is depressed. When a predetermined rate is exceeded, the POWER mode is activated. NOTE: THERE ARE A NUMBER OF PREDETERMINED RATES BASED ON THE VEHICLE SPEED VS. THROTTLE ANGLE RELATIONSHIP. THESE DETERMINE EASE OF ACCESS TO POWER MODE. AS A GENERAL RULE, IT IS EASIER TO ACTIVATE THE POWER MODE AT LOWER SPEEDS FROM A LIGHT THROTTLE THAN IT IS AT HIGHER SPEEDS FROM A LIGHT THROTTLE.

Hi GP33. Any chance they will cover this under warranty? i.e. it would be nice to get an alignment and new tires out of it; not sure if they would do it? I would maybe get the alignment, but not do any adjusting of my own. Camber you can set pretty close to zero yourself with a level, but do it yourself toe you'd have to use the strings method or something like that.

There is an article on EndWrench: Legacy and Impreza Engines with No Injection Pules #1 Cylinder

Here's what the old rotors from my '00obw looked like after sitting outside for about 2 weeks: The pipes they are sitting on have been there for 30 years.

Yah '99 Outbacks had a batch of flaky instrument clusters/speedos. I don't recall the common fix offhand but there was a thread like this recently so someone else will probably recall....

After the major grime is off, some Flitz metal polish on any of the common 'powerballs' really helps make them look good again.

Hi Bernie. Check out this article: Inadequate A/C Cooling, 2001 through 2002 Legacy VDC and L.L. Bean Outback Models