porcupine73

Not sure if this is helpful, but the basic description is below: The EGR system aims at reduction of NOx by lowering the combustion temperature through re- circulation of a part of exhaust gas into cylinders via the intake manifold. This system consists of the EGR valve, EGR solenoid valve, and BPT (Back pressure transducer): The EGR valve is operated by the vacuum via a BPT from the throttle body and controls the exhaust gas flow from the exhaust manifold to the intake manifold. The EGR solenoid valve is controlled by the ECM according to the engine driving condition and opens/closes the vacuum line from the BPT to the EGR valve diaphragm. The BPT controls vacuum in order for the amount of the EGR that corresponds to the engine load to be obtained. EGR VALVE The EGR valve is situated between the exhaust manifold and collector. After opening EGR solenoid valve, EGR valve is opened for receiving throttle port pressure on diaphragm. Then, part of the exhaust gas is recirculated into collector chamber. EGR SOLENOID VALVE The EGR solenoid valve is situated between the BPT and EGR valve. EGR solenoid valve is opened by a signal emitted from the ECM. Therefore, throttle port pressure is transmitted to diaphragm of EGR valve via a BPT. BPT The BPT is installed between the throttle body and the EGR solenoid valve. The BPT, varying the throttle port vacuum that acts on the EGR valve according to the throttle opening angle and exhaust gas pressure, controls the rate of exhaust gas flow to the EGR valve.

Provided the motor is faulty and it's not the regulator jammed up or something like that. 61188AE00B WINDOW MOTOR FRONT RIGHT FOR 2000-2004 LEGACYS ALL msrp $210

If the dealers you are searching are using trademotion (which most do) it may not be listed. I hate the trademotion package. One that does not use trademotion you could check and actually lists the OEM part #'s is subarupartsforyou.com Also renickmotorsports.com has some aftermarket polyurethane bushings available I believe.

Thanks for the help guys. The endwrench articles are very interesting. I think it's fixed now. It was the ground connection. I was following to service manual troubleshooting procedure. It said check some resistances between the connector on the hydraulic unit controller thing there and chassis ground, saying they should be 0.5 ohms or less. I was getting about 7 ohms. I looked for nearby ground connections and there was one at the base of the bracket for the power steering reservoir. I took out the bolt and yep it was the correct ground. The bolt was pretty rusty and the connector dirty, so I cleaned it all up, put in a new bolt, coated the whole deal with kopr-shield. Then the resistance was like 0.2 ohms. I think the bolt hole might be stripped, so maybe this was a problem before. I don't remember messing with this connection in the past but maybe I did as the bolt had the copper stuff on it that I usually use. Then I did the test sequence mode and I could hear all sorts of grring and whirring (no dong dong or gong gong or anything like that - maybe it's the translation from Japanese). I cleared the codes and went for a test drive and the light stayed off.

Ok, thanks nipper. I'll remove the connector and see if it's corroded or anything and check some things the procedure says like power and ground but if that's all good I'll see what parts I can find used. I saw this section about noting any sounds the unit is making. I'm not hearing any sounds yet, so I'll check the 'does not produce' box for now. I can live with a buzz or maybe a knock but if I hear the gong gong buzz I'm going to be upset.

Any common causes of ABS code 52 for 2000 Outback? I noticed the ABS light came on this morning. Just went out at lunch and read code 52. The manual says "DTC 52 - Abnormal Motor and/or Motor Relay" Faulty motor, Faulty motor relay, and/or Faulty harness connector I tried wiggling the connector and tapping the motor a little bit and then reset the codes to see if it comes back. I see it also says "Trouble Symptom - ABS does not operate." Actually maybe that is better. I heard others say the system is fairly sensitive. Last week I was making a fairly sharp right turn while braking and hit a medium sized pothole. The ABS kicked and phew that was not good. I was not expecting it and it reduced my slowing down for a second at a critical moment.

There's a lot of games that are played on eBay. One I see on most car listings is the lowering of the reserve price at the last moment eBay will allow it. Like maybe the reserve is $5000 and someone bids $4000, maybe they will bid higher trying to meet the reserve, but if not the seller could lower the reserve later to make that person high bidder. Also a lot of the listings in the fine print show some 'dealer documentation fee' which can be $100's.

Hi. That should be a solid Subaru you have picked up. That model year with 2.2L is pretty solid. Yes replace the water pump and gasket if they're original and might was well put in a new thermostat and gasket too. The idlers should at least be checked, esp the geared toothed one near the water pump. Definitely reseal the oil pump and replace front crank seal. Make sure the screws are not backing out of the rear case cover. There is a o-ring type item between the oil pump discharge and the block as well. Yes good to pass that one up. That's the front wheel drive indicator. Sometimes when people are trying to sell a Subaru that has some torque binding issues they install the FWD fuse.

Subaru has determined the rounded cogs generate less heat. Subaru timing belts are pretty reliable; don't hear of many breaking or having issues before their time. There have been failed tensioners and idler pulleys and the crank pulley bolt backing out, but these are typically because either the idlers should have been checked when timing belt was replaced or crank pulley bolt was not retorqued correctly.

You could also put a switch on the lead to the starter solenoid, or just pull off the wire; it comes off pretty easily. That would prevent cranking. The fuel pump ground could work as another switch. Then even if the cranking is re-enabled it won't start or won't run very long. You can access the connector under the access panel beneath the carpeting behind the right rear seat. Another could be the put a switch in terminal 3 on the ignitor. This would remove the ground path for coil so the spark plugs could not fire. Another could be to unhook the cam position sensor. Also if there is a tree or light pole or something near by, you could chain the vehicle to that object to help prevent towing.

It can also mean your alternator is getting ready to give up the magic smoke.

The bolt is tight but it will come loose. When you reinstall the bolt you need to use the proper torque also as it is not pretty when the crank pulley bolt loosens up later. The timing belt uses an automatic tensioner, so if the belt is 'loose' the tensioner may be weak or damaged. When you put it in gear, put it in 5th gear so as to give your wrenching on the crank the least torque at the wheels. That should hold it still. When I broke loose the crank pulley bolt on '00obw I estimate it took a good 400 ft lb to break it loose.

Only OEM for the front o2 sensor.

I think it is the first one in the list, SOA925H500R1. I got those part #'s from subarupartsforyou.com

Yep, 99 Forester is another potential match SOA966H900R1 AXLE ASSMBLY LEFT or RIGHT FRONT REMAN from SUBARU FOR 1998-2000 FORESTERS (produced up to 01 of 2000)

Ok...where to start. The fuse is the FWD fuse for the automatic transmissions. Installing the fuse puts it in FWD mode. Normally the FWD fuse is not installed. MT's may have an FWD fuse position but it doesn't do anything. The main point is that all tires must match within 1/4" circumference, as measured with a narrow tape measure. The blowing of the transfer case is actually the development of torque bind. When running the donut spare, for AT's the FWD fuse should be installed.

My guess is the '97 Legacy mentioned might actually be a '97 Impreza. Either way, the shelf spare axle for the '91 Legacy probably has a different no. of splines.

Also noticed 'Impreza' in your post.... SOA966H900R1 AXLE ASSMBLY LEFT or RIGHT FRONT REMAN from SUBARU FOR 1993-1997 IMPREZA (ALL EXCEPT 2WD)

The part #'s are different, unless the '91 happens to be a turbo. I think the # of splines will be different. SOA925H500R1 AXLE ASSMBLY LEFT or RIGHT FRONT REMAN from SUBARU FOR 1990-1994 LEGACY (ALL FWD MODELS non-turbo) SOA966H900R1 AXLE ASSEMBLY LEFT or RIGHT FRONT ASSEMBLY REMAN from SUBARU FOR 1990-1994 LEGACY TURBO ONLY SOA966H900R1 AXLE ASSEMBLY LEFT or RIGHT FRONT ASSEMBLY REMAN from SUBARU FOR 1995-1999 LEGACY ALL (for cars with ABS)

Hi. Typically reduce by 1/3 for antisieze or threadlock is what I hear. Esp for smaller fasteners going into aluminum which kind strip somewhat easily. Note that you must know what the torque spec is for. Typically unless it's stated otherwise, the torque is for clean dry threads as you stated. However some fasteners such as the crank pulley bolt are for oiled threads. So in that case I would not reduce the torque. It is not uncommon to hear of that bolt especially coming loose later. On the oil pump screws you could even go red threadlock. I mean the only reason you would ever remove those screws later would be to check the rotor clearances or to replace the rotor pair; in those cases people usally just replace the whole pump. When I tried to get the screws out of my oil pump's rear case, a few were already loose, a couple were tight but I could get them out, and one I stripped (whoops) and those are weird screws you won't find at the hardware store. I used green thread lock (the wicking kind) on the new pump screws; it soaks down in there so you don't have to remove the fastener to apply it.

I think those might be GT wheels. Maybe someone can decode the VIN positions to determine the package. Cars101.com will show you the various packages available for the '94. Carfax will also list the trim package, but I'm not sure how accurate it is. For my '94s VIN it says it's an alpine but I see no evidence it actually is. Here is my '94 Legacy L wagon with option group 2:

If the ATF was changed periodically it would be a great benefit. If it still has the original ATF that is not ideal. Make sure on a cool morning start after firing up the engine it shifts into drive in a second or two. Some of the '99 and '00 phase II 4eats developed some slow to engage to drive issue. Of course torque bind checking wouuld be a good idea. Phase II 2.5L also could have the external HG peeping leak.

It'll be ok, second ounce stamps are less than 41c an once.... Second ccr....haven't had any engine failure but in lots of threads on many boards they are highly recommended.

Yes they would. No pad can be immune to the rusting of the rotor.