porcupine73

I think the hsoes just pull off the canister. I've never had to do it. You have to figure out if your canister is underneath the vehicle, pretty much right below where the fuel filler hole is (it's a black square box with what looks like 482 hoses routed into/around it) (this is the 'enhanced' system). Yah it's a little funny how that article says to just pull it off at the pump since you'd have to be lying on the ground probably on your back to get under there. Or if you have the charcoal canister under the hood, usually near where the ABS hydraulic unit is. This is the older system.

Is the intake tube just not long enough now?

Hi Hooked4Life and welcome! For the pump click off issue, check out endwrench Vehicle Won't Take Fuel Hard cold start cold be engine coolant temp sensor. ECU thinks engine is warm and doesn't inject enough fuel to run. Before the next cold start, put the key from acc to run, wait three seconds, back to acc then to run wait three seconds, a couple of times BEFORE cranking and see if this makes any difference. Each time you do this the fuel pump will run for a couple seconds and repressurize if you are losing pressure. However in the Sub's I've seen they loose pressure after about 4 hours, and they repressurize within about 1 second anyway.

Hello f0t0grafer and welcome! I think the attached diagram is for a '96; not sure how close it will be to yours...

afiak at any given point in time the ECU either thinks it is detecting knock or it isn't. I don't know if that decision is based purely on the amplitude of the knock sensor signal. If it is based purely on the amplitude, then clipping the signal to below that point would simply mean the ECU would never detect knock (even if knock were present). Not sure if this is helpful but here is the descrption endwrench gives:

Amsoil has a line of non-oiled air filters, including those conical cold air intake styles. Maybe you could hook somethign like that up to the intake with some flex hose. I used this 3" id flex hose stuff from mcmaster.com for intake air tube and it's been working great and is real easy to just flex to fit. It also has a smooth inner diameter; it's not corrugated. 3" id is a little big, but 2.5" I didn't know if it would fit my tube. It's 5915T181 from mcmaster.com catalog page 200, I have some pics at home if interested.

Apparantly the ECU doesn't mind not seeing any signal or just a little noise, as long as the circuit resistance is roughly correct. You might be able to reduce the amplitude with a voltage divider. If the knock sensor impedance is 500k-ohms, put a ~500k-ohm resistor in parallel with the knock sensor, and a 250k-ohm in series to the ECU. Then the ECU still sees the same resistance, but the signal amplitude should be 1/2. This might not be enough amplitude for the ECU to detect knock if there is any though.

It sounds like this will a fun problem to try to figure out. One of the criteria in that article for the test to occur is "The fuel tank must contain less than 9.6 gallons of fuel." So it might be possible, by keeping at least that much fuel in the tank, to reset the CEL and make a few trips until all the readiness monitors are set.

Another possibility is carrying a spare battery with you. When I start to worry that my battery might let me down, I buy the new battery and carry it in the vehicle as a spare. If you get a sealed type battery such as the Optima or a drycell such as the Odyssey there is no risk of leakage. Of course the battery must be secured in the vehicle since you don't want it coming to visit you in an accident. However, load test the battery when you get it to make sure it's good. The Optima I carried as a spare for 2.5 years then failed the load test and the cell under the ground terminal gets hot. It could have been bad when I got it, but since I didn't test it I don't know and of course now the warranty is up.

Engine oil bypass filters take a small portion of the oil flow and pass it through a separate filter that takes out particles much smaller than the full flow filter. They're very common on diesel trucks. I do it to help with extended oil change intervals.

Possible causes could include cam and/or crank position sensors or engine coolant temp sensor.

Well it is quite possible it is the head gaskets. It could be other things, such as if the thermostat were not opening properly, but that would be the phase I engine so HG issues are not out of the question.

Looks like a sharp car. Are these electronically speed limited?

Consumer reports (depending on whether you like them or not) has battery ratings. Different battery brands sometimes scored differently depending on groups size. I think in general autozone gold batteries were good, napa was rated pretty well....hm..have to find that article again. Yes, load test is easy to do. I got that load tester in my optima pic from Harbor Freight for $10 on sale, it's a 100 Amp tester. You just pop it on there, hold the switch for 10 seconds, and then read the voltage. But the unit gets HOT so be careful. Unforunately the Optima had been sitting for about 2.5 years and failed the load test so had to be replaced.

They can be removed. Just don't park on hay piles. I had several rattles and just today finally got rid of the last one. It took a number of worm drive hose clamps and nuts and bolts. The worm drive hose clamps work pretty well to stop the rattles.

Odyssey PC1500 drycell works nicely. Optima D34 works too. In either of these cases, the + battery lead needs to extended a couple inches to connect.

I haven't ever had to remove one; the throttle body cleaner spray in the intake there is all I've ever needed to do. If you do decide to remove it, make sure you get a new gasket first. Another idea might be to get a shop vac down in near that hole and see if it'll suck out any particles or chips. I'm guessing, that if it wasn't making this noise before work was started, and it is making noise now, that something might've gotten down in there.

It sputters because although the throttle body cleaner is flammable, the engine doesn't get enough air with it to run properly, so it sputters. Nothing to worry about really. If you already gave it a few squirts and it's still doing it, then I either wouldn't worry about it or you may need to take the iacv off to examine it (but beware it has a gasket that needs to be replaced if you remove it). Some chunk of dirt or a flake of something might've gotten down in there and is acting like a whistle or reed for a musical instrument.

It looks a little carbony in there. Did you try spraying throttle body cleaner in there with the engine running at idle? Like a short burst so the engine sputters a little but doesn't stall, and repeat at least a dozen times.

H6710AE000 Legacy 1995-2004, Outback 1996-2004, DUAL POWER OUTLET KIT W/INSTRUCTIONS The pic shows this one mounts in the coin cup holder near the parking brake handle.

Ok. You could also pull the hose off the other end in your pic right at the iacv. You still hear this noise even when that hose is connected to the intake tubing? I mean so that the air going into the iacv is coming from after the air filter?

I'm not completely sure but I think that might be your idle air control valve (IACV) intake hose. Is there anything down inside there? If not, i'd get 'er idling and give some shots of throttle body cleaner down that hose with engine running. There was a note on EndWrench about certain vehicles making a whistling noise if the iacv is dirty.

No, rear o2 sensor is purely an emissions/catalyst effiency purpose.

Wow sounds like investing in R-12 years ago would have been better than .com's!