porcupine73

Hm....not really sure on the others, but #2 sounds like the timing might be off a tooth somewhere, though the SOHC is pretty straightforward for getting the marks to line up (much easier than the earlier DOHC).

It does have a pressure sensor. I believe it uses to measure barometric pressure and something else through the pressure sources switching solenoid. Maybe something to do with EGR or the fuel tank pressure when it is doing the fuel system integrity test. But on those era's I don't believe it uses it for measuring/calculating airflow into the engine; they use the MAF instead. The MAP for airflow calculation started around 2000 for Subaru, probably because it is cheaper and they may have perceived it had longer service life than the hot wire MAF's, even though it is arguable that it is not as accurate.

It sounds like it is working now? It might have just not had a good connection at the connector that plugs onto the pressure switch spade.

Glad you got it fixed. Thank you for reporting back the solution!

What actual code is it coughing up?

You want the sump full to get the maximum oil change interval. That's what many of the vehicle makers who put the 'change oil soon' lights in the vehicles are finding out, that many car owners do not check or add makeup oil between oil changes, so they end up running with the sump less than full, and the 'change oil soon' light does not come on as soon as it needs to then.

The details it gave were

Hm...interesting...I looked through Endwrench article to see what their explanation was....and they said

Yah I get dirty overflow on all my soobs too. There was a TSB or similar document out that it could cause a problem on some soobs, the crud getting sucked in the overflow getting stuck and blocking radiator cap proper operation. Their solution was to cut the bottom of the overflow hose at a 45 degree angle so it wasn't sitting right at the bottom of the tank. On mine, I just pull the hose up 1/2" or so so that it isn't sucking right from the bottom of the muck.

Hm...could be...was that one of the first Subaru engines to have the variable valve timing? The actuators for that used engine oil pressure I think. That banjo bolt thing I think some of the soobs had a recall for it having a screen in it getting plugged up. If you have the turbo engine, I think they did say they wanted synthetic only for that, and something like 3750 mile oil changes.

'95 Legacy does not have a MAP sensor.

1. You do _not_ want any cylinders at TDC when you remove the timing belt! That lets the valves hit the pistons. You want the timing marks aligned, that is the safe position for doing the timing belt. 2. Since yours is the dohc you to a degree have to worry about the intake and exhaust valves hitting, but normally if you have the marks lined up, even if the cams do move, they snap closed rather than to a position where they would hit each other. I don't know for sure but I would say if you can get the pulley back in before rotating the belt that would probably be best. But the tensioner is probably fully extended now so that won't be possible. So if turning the crank by hand, I've seen people say just go slow and if you feel any resistance to stop. Might be easiest to have the plugs out when doing that so as to not fight any potential compression.

Yes that sounds like valet mode.

1. Wouldn't worry about it a whole lot, esp for a single drop of oil. Makeup oil is cheaper. There are some writeups around about doing the valve cover gaskets on the H6 though. 2. Would probably just keep an eye on it. 3. THIS IS PRIORITY 1 in my opinion. When the engine is cold, and the radiator cap is removed, is the radiator full right to the top? If not this hose needs replacing pronto. Some amount of coolant comes out when the engine is warm and is supposed to be drawn back in when it cools. But with that hole it is just going to draw in air.

Hm. Well I don't think anyone mentioned it yet, and I don't know it would cause what you are experiencing, but some from that era had some problems with the fuel injectors where they would develop ice on the tips in cold weather. I think that was more of a no start, hard starting type issue rather than stalling though.

It's definitely possible, these kinds of things are usually simply a question of time and money. It also requires skills, tools, etc but money can be substituted for those to get the services of someone who has them. If you have someone with fabrication skills that could be helpful. I believe yours has an auto trans? That is probably going to be one of the trickier parts. To keep the TCU happy without any input from the ECU. Because for example when the TCU gives the torque cut signal to the ECU, it isn't going to do anything, unless you figure out some way to interface it to the diesel ECU (if it even has one; some of the older Mercedes and similar diesels didn't have any electronic control). Your auto trans gearing might not be optimal for the diesel either; i.e. rather than looking at RPM's up to what 6000 rpm from the gaser, the diesels usually top out at 2500 rpm maybe depending on model? Auto trans might not hold the higher torque of the diesel at lower RPM's. If you do it, it would surely be an interesting project!

Generally I replace once per year, which is around 8,000 to 12,000 miles. Supposedly they actually get a little better at catching dirt after they're slightly dirty. Waiting too long can make it more restrictive to airflow, which can then reduce economy because of the pumping losses.

What's your manual say? You do not want to skimp on oil on this engine because of the timing chain tensioners. I believe 5W30 was the lightest recommended for soobs in that era, and then it was really done only for fuel economy vs 10W30 that was typical of the early/mid 90's. If you see temps around 104F or higher, which maybe in your area you might? Then it looks like 10W-30 or 10W-40 might be more applicable.

Not usually, though '99 2.2L's had some things done to them for emissions and economy. The cam position sensor is in the LH (driver) side timing belt cover, kind of underneath the oil fill cap to the left of the battery, held in by a single bolt.

Glad you figured it out! Noises are really weird and hard to find sometimes! Just as a note, the idle is not adjustable; it is completely controlled by the ECU by modulating the idle air control valve.

Generally I've been going with Outback struts and springs. I've done that on a '96 and a '94 and it is a pretty simple installation. Forester struts I have not tried; might need the corresponding Forester upper spring seat if the upper diameter is smaller like on some Imprezas. Then I use one fastcam bolt in the rear to get camber adjustment, and sometimes need to add one in the front as well if the stock bolt alone doesn't allow enough adjustment.

How'd it go? That does sound like siezed sliders. Then the caliper cannot center itself over the rotor, so the inner pad (the one on the caliper's side) wears out while leaving the other pad untouched. Usually on this job I find when removing the rear rotors on these Subaru's that often the parking brake shoes come loose from their linings, so usually I get the parking brake kit too. The hardware kit with springs and stuff is only about $4 from places like Rockauto.

I haven't used any BG products, but it looks like many of the Subaru labeled cleaners are BG stuff.

Winter blend fuel sometimes can account for a slight but sudden dip in fuel economy. Tire pressures if not adjusted can drop 3 psi or more and eat up fuel economy. The engine coolant temp sensor, at least on ODBII and later, if it is far to inaccurate (as in not getting above about 150F), will eventually give a code for temperature insufficient for closed loop operation.

I don't know for sure, but I think changes made around the 2000 MY made the AWD not as great as it used to be as far as transferring power to the rear. It doesn't seem to be as eager to transfer to the rear anymore, not like the 90's models. But of course it could be the clutch pack is getting worn out.