porcupine73

I know permatex ultra grey is not anaerobic. I'm asking about the threebond 1215 which Subaru specifies for this application - is threebond 1215 anaerobic. I posted the permatex ultragrey info for comparison.

The Subaru list says threebond 1215. Is that an anaerobic? I don't know how to tell. It says silicone and 'deoxime'; permatex ultra-grey says silicone and 'oxime'.

Hi. 1. The engines are similar but they are not identical. In '97 the 2.2L stopped using hydraulic lash adjusters and had some other changes to increase power and efficiency. 2. Trans are similar as well; not sure if they're swappable. If you swap trans you have to check the final drive ratio to match your rear diff. 3. The struts might fit, but the springs are different.

If you decide to use brake cleaner, at least go with non-chlorinated. Those typically just contain xylene, toluene, acetone, mineral spirits, etc. Chlorine in the engine is not typically a good idea, which is also why Duralube is not a product I would recommend - chlorinated paraffins which are typically used in metal machining processes.

Could be a bad cell in the battery. I had one with a bad cell and even fully 'charged' it was ~10.5V. On P1nnn and P2nnn codes the generic code reader descriptions are not always correct since the code meanings on P1 and P2 vary between manufacturer.

Yes typical causes of soob P0420 include front o2 sensor issues, rear o2 sensor issues, exhaust leaks, aftermarket exhaust, and others.

Hi. It might just need a new front o2 sensor. That can cause a situation where the rear o2 sensor triggers P0420. (I assume your '95 is ODBII). If it is just P0420 (and you should still pass inspeciton, since '95 is not required to pass ODBII inspection reuirements).

Sounds good! The thing I'm not sure about that Hylomar for say oil pump case sealing anyway is that application is not exactly a remove and reinstall frequently type application, so I'd be more tempted to go with the good 'ol anaerobic sealant on that. Wow $12 for an ounce..... On the oil pump screws I usually use the loctite green/wicking type.

Good catch skip. Yes Subaru does not recommend pulling a battery cable with the engine running. The literature says something like "a large counter emf will be generated by the alternator which could damage the ECU and other componenents".

It scares the battery into taking a charge. When it is taken out it thinks it might be ready to be turned in as a core so it figures it better shape up.

Yes curious where that price came from? A CCR 2.2L sold on eBay for like half that in September.

What do you guys think of this stuff? It sounds interesting: Permatex® Hylomar® Universal Blue Racing Formula Gasket Dressing & Flange Sealant This non-chlorinated gasketing and sealing compound has been specially formulated to be non-setting and non-hardening at elevated temperatures. It withstands rapid changes in temperature and remains flexible and tacky even at high temperatures, allowing repeated disassembly and reassembly in high performance applications. This no-run formula seals surface imperfections on machined flanges and is vibration resistant. Temperature range of -60°F to +500°F (-50°C to +260°C); resists engine fluids, including water, coolant, gasoline, lubricating oils, kerosene and some refrigerants. Also possesses dust and moisture proofing properties. Suggested Applications: Thermostat housings, differential coverings, hydraulic drives and motors, gearbox assemblies, intake manifold assemblies, oil, fuel and water pump housings and seals, fuel injectors and fuel pumps, transmission and torque converter seals

Here's the permatex ones anyway..... http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/anaerobic_gasket_makers.htm ========================================================== Permatex® Anaerobic Flange Sealant Flexible, gasketing material for use on rigid machined flanges with less than .015" gap. OEM approved – use where OE’s specify “anaerobic” gasket (cures in the absence of air). Withstands temperatures to 300°F (149°C). Eliminates preformed, pre-cut, paper, rubber and cork gaskets. Flexes with flanges that move in service. Suggested Applications: Water pumps, thermostat housings, transmission pans, transmission case covers, transaxle casings, engine cases, timing covers, and o-ring replacement ========================================================== Permatex® Anaerobic Gasket Maker OEM specified. Noncorrosive gasketing material designed primarily for use on aluminum, iron, and steel flanged mating surfaces. Ideal for on-the-spot and emergency repairs, or when a conventional gasket is unavailable. Fills gaps up to .015" and cures to a solvent-resistant seal that will not tear or decay during service. Parts disassemble easily even after extended service and old gasket material can be removed in minutes with a simple putty knife. Suggested Applications: Water pumps, thermostat housings, transmission pans, transmission case covers, transaxle casings, o-ring replacement ========================================================== Permatex® High Temperature Anaerobic Flange Sealant A high temperature sealant specially engineered for making or dressing gaskets in rigid assemblies. Able to withstand temperatures to 400°F (204°C), fills gaps up to 0.020” (primed) and permits clamping loads to be maintained for strong, leakproof assemblies. Suggested Applications: Water pumps, thermostat housings, transmission pans, transmission case covers, transaxle casings, timing covers, and o-ring replacement ==========================================================

hehe oh sorry about that. I bought some anaerobic at napa before, but haven't used it yet. The permatex web site has all their product info, not sure how many different types of anaerobics they make?

Hi. Yes the permatex ultra-grey pretty much any parts store has it, napa, pepboys, carquest, etc. I think I might try anaerobic next time since it does seem safer and a better choice. That sealants chart is from a http://www.endwrench.com article. The oil filter might also have been defective allowing flow to bypass the filter all the time. Some of the cheapo oil filters bypass setup leaves a bit to be desired. Another thing I have noticed is a lot of aftermarket oil filters the bypass opens at maybe 8-12psid, whereas on the Subaru OEM filter it is like 22psid.

How did the pieces of rtv get past the oil filter? Maybe the oil filter was left on too long and its bypass valve opened or something.

Hi FrankDux and welcome! It does sound like a potential alternator issue. Are your battery cable connections and alternator connections tight and the alternator/ps belt is in good shape? What voltage do you read at the battery terminals with the engine idling? Also yes if your battery is low, it's not a bad idea to let it slow charge (1-2 amps) overnight before starting; no sense over burdening the alternator. Car starting batteries do not like being discharged too far especially not multiple times, so it may have spanked your battery as well. For ODBII, codes starting with P1 and P2 are manufacturer and model specific, so descriptions found in various lists/books/generic code readers might not be right for your vehicle. When I look up P1103 in a typical soob ODBII list it say "P1103 Pressure Sources Switching Solenoid Valve Circuit".

What rpm is your idle at? Maybe it is within spec but just seems low? That endwrench article is good, but that is not the style IACV that evothis has. The article is for later soobs using the MAP speed density setup, where the IACV intake is actually at the top of the throttle body right before the throttle butterfly, which is completely different than the earlier vehicles with the IACV having an intake hose coming of the air intake snorkus.

Permatex ultra grey works fine, at least it has for me. It is on Subaru's list of adhesives as alternative to some of the threebond sealants they use. Anaerobic is nice stuff and should work very well; I think Subaru lists the rtv's because they might be a little easier/more forgiving in their use? I think some automakers say 'no rtv/silicone/etc/etc' because they are paranoid about emissions warranty. Maybe then if they can spot anything like that as having been used they can deny having to pay for o2 sensor replacement, etc. I think 99obw posted before about what happens when silicone gets into the intake, that it basically forms glass on the tip of the o2 sensor and then it no workie anymore?

Right on, no RTV for the valve cover gaskets. How about the RTV's that claim to be 'sensor safe'.... can those still cause o2 sensor damage?

Congrats on the new soob! Sure it's hard to see a beloved old soob go. I mean sure you could fix it up with enough time and money, but I'm sure you'll fall in love with the new one pretty fast! haha yes when I was a kid we didn't have these fancy plastic motor oil bottles. The oil came in tin cans and we liked it. And we didn't have these fancy can openers, we used an old rusty nail and a piece of lead pipe to poke some holes in the can. We changed the oil when it was rainy and windy out and we didn't have these fancy funnels, we cupped our hand over the oil spout and poured it in. And we did all this barefoot. And we liked it.

Looks good! You can definitely see the lift in those pics which sets it apart. Looks like it was just detailed! Here is wisdom Let him who has understanding calculate the number of the beast, for the number is that of a man; and his number is six hundred and sixty-six. Revelation 13:18 NASB

Could also be a vacuum leak. wd40? that doesn't have any silicone in it does it?

Cool test for the MAF, I've never heard of that but will have to try it out! Unhooking the iacv intake hose is making it sputter because then the airflow is bypassing the maf which messes up how much fuel the ECU is injecting. So you might have to unplug the maf while doing this so tht the ecu will not be trying to use the maf input?

None is bulletproof. Like any vehicle there are many factors involved including maintenance, operating conditions, manufacturing, mileage etc. There may be 2.5L phase I drivers who never had a head gasket issue in 200,000 miles and there may be 2.2L drivers who blew a head gasket in the first 10,000 miles.