Splinter

All new mounts but I don't have a pitch stop haven't figured that out yet :/ But the boot looks like it might be rubbing all the time, not just under load

I wrecked the end of my cv shaft hammering it out of the hub so I replaced it with a brand new unit, however I did this at the same time as a ton of other work (EJ swap including removing the dash and dropping the steering column) Now under hard acceleration in first gear I get a very loud buzzing noise, and it appears the CV boot is rubbing on the steering shaft and possibly the clamp rubbing on the rag joint. Can't seem to find any threads on this happening, anyone have any experience? I want to fix this before it kills the boot! EDIT: Vehicle would help I suppose. 83 Brat with EJ22E and 4MT

Been doing good, down to just my Impreza and the Brat now, much easier to deal with just two cars! haha. how bout you?

Took 100 thou (!!!) off the flywheel, clutch behaves properly now, replaced the front seal too. no more leaky! Things are looking up! Nico: Yep, this is me!

Pulled the flywheel back out tonight, going to regrind it tomorrow. Also going to split the trans and change the front seal as it seems to be leaking like an absolute bastard.

gotta pull the transmission on sunday. Clutch is slipping something fierce. I think I put the wrong step on the flywheel for the XT6 pressure plate... Apart from that it seems to run and drive pretty well

Well, I think this pretty much explains the rear diff noise I was getting If you take apart your diff to weld it, take special care to re-assemble it properly!

Good read, and the brakes seem to work great with the new master

Just ordered a 1 1/16 master cylinder from a newer legacy. Over a 50% improvement in bore area from the stocker. Should be good, I hope. I'll get that done on Sunday, and hopefully get the alternator hooked up too

Well if a legacy MC does, any 89-2007 Subaru MC should too, dunno about the newer ones. On my Impreza I have a 95 L booster connected to an 05 STI MC with a 98 RS pedal assembly

Actually I was using a battery holddown. lol The starter switch is wired up now tho

Nice. I mean the car stops fine how it is I just hate the lack of pedal feel. So pretty much all I have left is the rad fan, alternator and headlights. Nice. Plus clean up the disgusting wiring mess

The stock bore is 13/16 according to my listing I wasn't going to try to change the throw of the factory cylinder, I was just looking at putting a bigger cylinder from another car on there I didn't realize the legacy one was so big tho, I think I might go that route!

Have you ever measured the throw of the stock MC?

Woohoo! Got her home today! Now time for all the fiddly stuff.

So yea, gonna need a bigger master cylinder... lol. With the brakes bleed the pedal still goes right to the floor

Fired up the ej22 today! Ran like a bag of ************ but it ran! Now to begin debugging

More importantly, no problem with parts availability. These brakes will be stocked on every parts store shelf from now til the collapse of society. Keep in mind that these have no e-brake capability, I'm working something out for the rears on that. I'll get some more pics once I finish the brackets.

Stock. I turned down the front hubs to center the rotors, machined some sleeves to center the studs and built some brackets to attach the calipers to the stock knuckles. With everything assembled it's centered to within .001"

98 Chevy K1500

Been a little while since I posted anything about my brat here... Some big changes in the works.

It could be the starter, but it wasn't in mine. It wasn't even the ignition switch. It was the neutral safety switch! Taking out the starter is easy, and if it's the nippondenso starter (large 'house' shaped solenoid attched to a round motor) you can pop the cover off the back of the solenoid and often get away with just hitting the 3 contacts (two solid, one moveable on the plunger) with some emery cloth. The contacts should be avaible from anywhere the does starter rebuilding for under $20 if they can't be polished out.

I'm running Pennzoil Ultra synthetic oil in my 83 EA81. No problems whatsoever. Don't believe the myths. Most of the "You can't run synthetic oil if X" myths started in the 80s with the early synthetic oils. They've come a long way since then. There are no downsides to running synthetic in a HEALTHY motor other than the cost. If your motor already leaks or burns oil, then switching to synthetic could make it worse.