Splinter

EZ series EG33 uses a hybrid belt and gear driven cams the new FB series

Just a point of interest, I poured over my suspension catalog at work and found that the strut rod bushings for a 63-72 Dodge Dart are almost the same as the EA81, same ID, slightly different OD and thickness, you might need to realign after you install them. I didn't. Installed them last night and everything feels great. Moog part number K7040

Yea I think I'm going to put a little more juice into the torsion bar (It's still got lots left, and I have a spare if I break it) and give some abuse in a controlled environment to make sure it's all ok before I drive it on the street.

Monday I'll worry the fenders until I can turn the steering wheel in a full arc. The backs wheels SEEM fine, have to see how they respond to actually driving.

Managed to get myself a brand new clutch cable, so as soon as I put new seals in the trans and I'd like to sort out a new shifter bushing, I'll be ready to do the swap! Stoked.

Cleaning that ground helped some, thanks. Still some weirdness with the flasher speed but at least people can see I'm indicating now thanks. On another front, here's the parts car I was given: 3 hours pass... Monday we pull it out of there to remove the powertrain. Unfortunately I didn't notice the damage on the passenger side fender before, which is the same fender that's damaged on my brat. Damn. Oh well, I still got lots of good parts like a non-rusty cowl, shiny wiper arms and a 4MT swap! The round headlight it only there because the front end was gone and the previous owner was using it as a bush vehicle and needed something for a headlight. The passenger side under the door almost collapsed when I sat on it due to rust. Yikes. This car was a gonner for sure.

Yea, the only reason it survived at all was it was mostly garage kept. So I'm having some pretty weird electrical problems. The lowbeams on the car work normally, but when you put the high beams on each bulb only sees 6 volts instead of twelve so they're super dim (confirmed with a multimeter) Also, on the right side only, there's some significant problems with the tail lights. With the lights on and the indicator on, the indicator and brake light alternate flashing, same if you put the reverse lights on. With the other lights off, it just flashes very fast and dim. The only ground I could seem to find was in the bed just behind one of the access panels. I cleaned it up and it didn't seem to make a difference. I've been searching for an answer for a few days so far and been pouring over the wiring diagrams but so far nothing. Any ideas?

ketchikan

Just picked up a free 87 EA81 3 door (back end totally rusted out, been sitting for 5 years, not savable) Time for a manual transmission swap, a new cowl and new front right fender! yay!

New dizzy solved it! Whats more, it passed inspection! Wooooii I can drive it!

It's a single wire alternator, reg doesn't even see the rest of the car. I tried unhooking it, didn't change anything. Unhooked the dizzy, no more tach bounching It failed an ohm test, it's grounded to the casing, I'm fairly confident it's the dizzy pickup coil at this point

Guys, the car doesn't run. At all. The tach moves with the engine SHUT OFF. How can the shaft possibly be moving around causing the tach to bounce when the motor isn't turning?

How much can the shaft wobble around when the car isn't running?

On the offchance that anyone cares, it was the pickup coil. Just tested it with a multimeter, 680ohms from wire to wire and the yellow wire is grounded to the body. Weird that it would just suddenly fail like that though...

This car does not want to be back on the road. Was half way to the inspection place this morning and it just dies. Tach jumped around like crazy then nothing. Now when you turn the key on, tach jumps all over the place. When you crank it the tach does nothing. No spark. Coil has power... I'm guessing bad pickup in the disty. Ordered a new distributor, as it was cheaper than a new pickup!

Failed inspection. Apparently they want ALL underbody rust repaired, which they didn't tell me before (they just listed specific areas for some reason) So its back at the shop for more surgery, new right rocker, fixing a hole in the frame under the bed and a piece under the right side of the firewall. Argh. I'm in this deep, no turning back now...

Does anyone have a list of what parts are still available from the dealer? Or are all the parts on the SGP website still available?

Yea I'll do a more permanent fix once I've got it on the road, so I can actually work on it at my house For now I just gooped the crap out of the gasket , got one stud tight and glued the other one in so it looked like it was in properly, lol. Should get me through inspection on tuesday. I'm nervous! I really hope they pass it this time. I want my Brat!

Wow what a long day. Didn't get it out of the body shop til ~1pm, then for some ungodly reason it took 9 hours to do front brakes and rear main seal. Stuff kept going wrong until it got frustrating. For the record, 02-07 WRX front brake hoses work on the EA81 brat, with some modification minor to the mounting brackets. They're also about 3 inches longer so they'd be good if you have a mild lift. Also: I hate the exhaust studs.

It'll be fine Menu for tomorrow: Pull motor, do valve cover gaskets, front main seal, rear main seal, oil pan seal (anything else while it's out?) Front brakes incl. brake hoses Rear brakes Rear shocks General cleanup of any dirt/oil/etc Then with any luck, inspection early next week

My brat is a late 83 (vented rotors)

Ah I misunderstood what you were saying. My mistake.

I've seen at least a dozen different pictures of dual range EJ cars, from the factory. Australia, South America, etc.

83 GL: 2,100 lb 11 Outback 2.5i: 3564 lb 1464lbs is a lot of weight to move around. Drivetrain loss between awd and 4wd is part of it, but not most. You still have parasitic loss with Subaru 4wd because the rear diff is always spinning, even if 4wd isn't engaged. There's no disconnect in the hubs like on trucks.