Virrdog

I would say the wagon would be worth about $1600 if that's what you really wanted. Nice list of replaced parts, but the the botched hood would be a price-dropper for me. They'll never get what they're asking...

Sounds like a fuel filter. Replace that first.

Change the fluid in your rear diff and see if the noise goes away, changes, or no change at all. When the plug is taken out, see how much shavings are on it. Highly unlikely it is a rear diff problem, though. Have your mechanic check the speedo cable going into your transmission. If it is mechanical then whatever gear spins inside there can make noise if it is not tight. My '93 makes a horrendous noise if you take it above 60 when its below freezing, found out a spring in there was missing.

You might be getting pad knock-back from worn out wheel bearings, the rotor may be pushing the pads back into the caliper - causing the extra travel. In this case, the problem would be your front bearings. I don't know if the same thing will happen with drum brakes, it would be a different from the disk brake reactions.

Has anyone else experienced the starting out in the wrong gear problem? Could the surging possibly be the torque converter locking and unlocking that quick?

Some interesting opinions in here. But if you make contact with a car and then leave... whether you are at fault or not, you have broken the law. So the Camaro guy broke the law... whether he gets caught, or whether BGD73 caused it or not. Can we at least accept that as fact regardless of how we feel about the drivers?

185/80R13 should fit just fine. I have had those on every GL I have owned from my first Brat.

The fuel filter is a red herring maybe and you need to check out your coolant temp sensor? And reset your ECU. I know my car started out having some problems with the extra fuel that was coming through the new filter until it learned it.

Wait, wait, wait. You do not like the fact the dealership will not pay for stuff out of warranty. And your VW was sooo bad that they yanked the car so you could not lemon-law it... but you kick yourself for leaving VW?? :lol: I would just say you do not like the service at Schaller Subaru and leave it at that. Sorry you're having problems.

I got a 8 cylinder 4-barrel Oldsmobile Delta 88 through emissions like that. Looked like the readings of an electric car... Zeroes! I was really nervous that they were going to think something was up... But no such nonsense.

Ouch.

And change your oil if you haven't yet. I think the new exhaust will do it, though.

Aww man, somehow Tinkerbell got into the bellhousing!

Talk to a local body shop. I don't know if its available to just anyone, but it very well may be, they will know. That's why I love having a body shop contact.

I think that since it was a new technology in the early 90's and they didn't know how long they would last they guesstimated on when they should be checked out. 30 years from now they will have a much better idea on how well airbags fair over long periods of time.

You shouldn't need any wax over the clear coat. Use a polish to shine it up, or wetsand the clear with 2000 and buff it with a polish. Wax builds up with multiple applications and will yellow over time. Why do all of that work and just put something back on that will yellow again

I second the Purolator, I don't know if they are used OEM... but some of their other filters are like oil.

A coworker of mine who is a very non-Subaru guy has a 2000 Outback that he obtained very cheap. Recently he has started to have problems with it. Starting from a stop sign, the car will take off like it is in 3rd gear. But if you pop it into neutral the revs climb up fine, re-engage drive and the car takes off like normal. The car did this off and on for a little bit. Now the whole car will surge as it is driving along. It will surge quickly, like once or twice a second. I have no real knowledge when it comes to automatics and I was wondering if this problem has shown up before. He has had it at the tranny shop a couple of times and they don't know what to do and said a flush might make it worse. Now he is thinking of trading it in for a Hyundai so his wife & little kids can have a reliable car. (He thinks 104k is high mileage.) Help. I wouldn't even know how to start seaching for this problem. And since these problems are straight line, that effectively eliminates the diffs (center or otherwise).

Not necessarily, best 2 cell phone picture guess is that it isn't structural. The truth could be far from that... I would get some better pictures and more opinions before getting too happy.

Your pictures are waaay close, but I don't think that is on anything structural. Clean it up and seal it somehow like the previous poster mentioned. Pour15 would be your best bet.

Nothing wrong with Group N (I have those engine & tranny mounts) But yeah, that's what the 5 speed tranny mount looks like.

A new tranny mount can do wonders for the car if you have a 5 speed. And you might as well take a look at your engine mounts when you pull the engine and see if those need to be replaced, too.

I second this sentiment whole-heartedly. And get extra weight out of the car, that improves performance AND gas mileage.

Exactly. On a GL Hatchback I went something nuts like +4 on the rear wiper and it worked like a charm. If you don't like guesstimating go out and measure how much room the wiper has at the end of the stroke and figure out how much bigger you can go. Or in other words, 16" is absolutely fine.

Basic ones I just bought from AutoZone for a car I'm selling worked ok. They had two ridges that hold the ring on, one was to get a tighter fit.