86BRATMAN

anyway, back to the original intent of this post, as i have stated i have a d/r 4spd, rear diff, gas tank and a few other various things needed for a 4wd swap into a hatch, i am asking if anybody can give some information about what i NEED to finish the job, i am NOT looking for your personal b/s about how you wouldn't do this or wouldn't do that, or how many times you've done this kind of thing and how difficult it was for you to do it while eating your ham sandwich and watching tv, personally i don't care how hard it was for you to do this stuff, i was inquiring about what physical parts i will need in order for ME to do this to MY personal car fabriction is not a difficult thing for me, neither is physical labor, as far as i am concerned your personal accounts are not note worthy when i am dealing with this on my own recognicance, with my own time, tools and knowledge, thank you come again

nah, messy is blowing a built honda motor apart in a street race when the rod bolt sheers off from too high rpm, and half of your eagle rod goes screaming thru the front side of the block, thru the grill, and across a 4 lane highway, sending out a trail of about 4 quarts of valvaline 5w-30 for the next couple hundred feet, when you work at a shop that makes/ installs/ distributes flatbeds and gooseneck trailors to about 1/3 of the east coast and you have all that scrap metal and welding equipment at your disposal, not to mention all the spare filler necks for when those flatbeds go on trucks, this kinda stuff is childs play

if i were to lift this one as you suggested and dropped all of the suspension components then what would it matter, using washers, or other various things to space it down would cure the ailment

but wouldn't simple things like bolt holes that line up, and the hatch tank in brat still having the same alingment of the indentions for the diff and axle seem to imply shared fitment, if indeed they were shorter because of shorter wheelbase, why then would they be a perfect fit for the brat, and not go the other way?

hmmm, your ea81's must have some major breathing improvements made to them, cuz they really don't enjoy much over 5k in stock form, power pretty well goes to crap, and i know for sure those synchro's you spoke about must not like you very much, and with that kind of abuse/missuse its no wonder why you say you have three broken ea81 d/r's laying around, under "normal" driving of my teenage years i had a 86 brat with the stock transmission at 212k with abosulutely no grinds at all in any gear

well as i see things if the bolt holes line up from one chassis to another then it will bolt into either, may have to put the rusty old gas tank from the brat under the hatch just for the shear heck of it, and take pictures

yes i do realize this, and this gas tank laying beside the brat came out of a 4wd hatch from a local junk yard, i witnessed the pulling of it myself, and there are, as i said before, at least ten other 4wd hatchbacks in this junk yard, also if you would like to know for sure, my white 86 brat had a 4wd hatch gas tank swapped directly into it by my mechanic about 6 years ago, they bolt in the exact same way, i know this because the tank beside my maroon brat has been test fitted into the brat by ME, they have a different capasity, ~11 gal verses ~14 gal if you would like pictures to prove these statements let me know, i will verify what i know

i honestly see it as no less work than going on with the brat at this point in time, full ej driveline swap; 5mt doesn't come close to going into the tunnel, custom driveshaft, custom axles, custom shift linkage, wiring modifications, cutting of motor crossmember, custom tranny mounts, and the list goes on all the wiring is intact on the hatch, and it doesn't have a motor sitting in it, the 2wd posibilty is probably more what i'll do, but i was trying to see exactly what would need to go under this car to make it a 4wd since i do have *most* of the needed parts laying around

well upon further inspection of that picture it seems i am the idiot:dead:

also failed to mention the ea81 i have laying in the basement from the brat will also be finding its new home in the hatchback.... and if all else fails and i decide to go 2wd i have an ea81 5spd laying directly beside the ea81 d/r and said motor....

well GD i got you in this case, i have one laying beside my brat, and know where at least ten others are at this very moment......

and by the way, sako, who is the idiot riding on top of the wagon???

the ea82 sedan and wagon have the same wheelbase dimentions, 97.0" found that on the specification page of this site's subaru's of the 80's pages on the main .org page

i've got the trans laying in the basement out of the brat, and i can get ahold of a driveshaft from a local junk yard, they've got one on its side that has pretty much all of its underside stuff intact, probably going down there next friday and i just wanna make sure i know what all i will need, after looking at it i've also decided i need to get the brake drums and hubs from the donor as well

just picked up this car for $95, 86 STD hatchback, 4 spd fwd, its got the 2wd subi problem a lot of them around here had of the rear suspension tube rusting in half, called subaru earlier and they had already performed the recall on this one, and it rusted in half again, now what i'm thinking of doing if i keep the car intact is swapping my 4wd system from the brat into it, but what all parts will i need to do it all, so far i can figure i need a 4wd hatch torsion bar setup, diff hanger and brackets, and a hatch d/s, and some new shocks, and a 4wd hatch gas tank, anything important i'm missing here

here in the mountains of va where we "use" to have cold winters our 90 L 2wd has seen starts into the -20's with never a problem, the car never had a bit of problem in its 238k service to our family, we ended up selling it about 5 years back, and to this day the guy who bought it drives it to work and back with no problems, with the trip to his work and my mathematical skills that puts it to somewhere around the 400k mark... now thats one pos engine right... i think not and as it turns out the motor i'm putting into my brat has got 218k on the clock, and even in the wagon it came from was strong enough to outrun a manual ford focus hatchback, up hill, with a fouled plug

in my opinion any motor made for a turbo, i.e. ej22t or ej20t, would run like horse crap with out its turbo, they have a good bit lower compression 8.0:1 as compared to the regular ej22 phase 1's 9.5:1, so you would actually lose more power that it would be worth, further more if you want a non turbo ej22 and have a turbo ej22, save yourself the trouble of being considered an idiot and removing the turbo, just trade me, we'll both be happy

we changed spark plugs in my firend's 02 RS and i noticed some oil leakage around the spark plug tubes, on the gromet seals of the valve cover, it has no leaks anywhere else that we have found, its got 83k and using about a quart ever 1.5k or so, i'll have him get a pcv next time we go to the subie lot

cool deal i may end up going that route instead of turbo for the brat in the future, does the stock ecu do alright with it, i had a high comp honda motor that ran like pure crap on a stock ecu

what are you using to run the motor, ecu i mean,

interesting, i didn't know that, i have always been told they are junk, that the phase two's flow better

this cold weather down here is putting a real damper on my fun, lol, hoping it'll at least be tolerable this weekend so i can get the tranny mounts fabed up at least

i would like to see it as well, if it is in there it is not stock, the 3.0HO wasn't an option untill the 00-04 legacy

just because it hasn't done anything yet doesn't mean that its an ok idea, plus if he's getting a scrap yard tranny nobody knows what it's already been thru, its just a safety precausion, its always better safe than sorry in my book

ever read the owner's manual for a d/r? from page 52 of my 86 Brat/ hatchback owners manual "Do not shift into the 4WD Lo range without first depressing the clutch pedal and reducing vehicle speed to 30 klm/h (20 MPH) or below" not exactly shift on the fly, the 4wd high is what i would consider shift on the fly as you can pull it up at pretty much any point in time you need it, 4WD Lo requires lower speeds because of its low gearing, there is a neason there is a nuetral area in between the two, don't just rip it up in there at any time or you'll be sorry