BigMattyD

I had to replace the filler tube on my fuel tank last year for the exact same problem. I had a local independent shop do it, and it cost around $250 as I recall. I was kind of upset about it, but what can you do?

One time I was driving a work truck for a landscaping company, and a similar thing happened. It turned out a rod had broken thru the crankcase. The engine still ran but with very limited power and a bad vibration, as the oil drained out and I shut down the engine and coasted to a stop...

It would seem to me that if you can't shift out of park or start the car, there may be a switch connected to the brake pedal that will keep you from starting or shifting out of park unless it senses that the brake pedal is depressed. I have a manual transmission, and I know I can't start the car unless the clutch is depressed. The switch is usually mounted up on the firewall behind the pedal "arm" so that when you press the brake pedal, it connects the circuit and allows you to start the car. (or maybe it is mounted in front of the bar, and when you press the pedal, it releases the switch) There may also be separate switches to turn on the brake lights, disengage cruise control, etc.. I am not sure exactly what the setup is, but based on the symptoms, that would be my best guess. Matt

Regarding the pulleys: The timing belt rides on several idler pulleys as well as the tensioner. It is possible for these idler pulleys to wear out. Last month when I changed my timing belt, I found that one of the idler pulleys did not smoothly spin on its bearing, while the rest were fine. So it is possible you may need a new pulley, but normally that is not the case. I think I inadvertently damaged mine when I got too aggressive prying off the crankshaft pulley, and broke the plastic timing cover. Maybe I put some pressure on the pulley that caused it to fail? Anyway, everything is fixed now. Matt

I just put the car in gear, stepped on the parking brake, and allowed the resistance of the engine to hold the crankshaft tight. That probably only works on manual transmission. Other people have used a chain wrench, or they use a breaker bar propped up against the engine compartment and give the starter a quick crank to break the nut loose. Other people have made homemade tools to hold the pulley. Do a search on this message board for timing belt replacement and you'll get all the info you'll ever need. I just did mine last month, and without all the info I got here, I probably never would have done it. Matt

My wife's Buick did that during some -20 F weather after it hadnt been driven a few days. It sounded like a whine from a bearing in the power steering pump or alternator? I shut the car off after about 30 seconds, and when I started it later that day, the whine was gone. It could have been the belts, I guess. Maybe we should just move south. I think that would help. Matt

You can get a brand new OEM (no question about quality) water pump from 1stsubaruparts.com for $64.00 for a 96 Legacy. The local auto parts store charges as much or more for other brands new, and about 25 bucks less for remanufactured. If you like your car, and plan to keep it for a long time, buy OEM and also replace the thermostat and hoses as well. If you don't plan on keeping the car for more than a couple years, maybe you can save a few bucks buying remanufactured or another brand.. That's the criteria I usually use when buying important parts for my engine. Matt

I agree, 1stsubaruparts.com is great but it is on the west coast. Try subarupartsforyou.com I ordered a timing belt idler pulley and had it in a day or two. Takes about a week to 10 days from 1stsubaruparts. 1st subaru has a better menu and catalog online, but I'm sure if you call the tool free number at subarupartsfor you.com, you can get anything you want. They are both authorized Subaru dealers... I have used both and had good results... Matt D

My 96 Legacy had a similar problem: crank but no start, not even misfiring, just no start. The problem was intermittent. The car would run fine, I'd park it and run in to the store, come back out, and no start. It would usually work again if I waited long enough.. Turned out to be a faulty crankshaft position sensor. Replaced it back in 2001, no problems since. matt

Because of these posts, I decided to try a little seafoam myself. I put it into the PCV valve area, used about 1/3 of a bottle. Put the rest in the gas tank. It seems to have worked well, I have better, smoother acceleration and a bit more power, kind of like going back in time to when I first bought her. I was kind of surprised that there was any effect, but I guess now I believe. I bought seafoam at Advance Auto Parts for about $3.50 matt

I have used 1stsubaruparts.com which is on the west coast, and subarupartsforyou.com which is on the east coast. both are Subaru dealer parts departments that sell parts for much less than retail. Shipping would be cheaper and quicker from the east coast. matt

The cables failed in 2 different ways. The fuel door cable got stuck with the cable extended in the open position, it sort of seized up. I tried everything I could think of to loosen it or lubricate it, but it would no longer activate smoothly. The trunk cable broke where it attaches to the actuating lever in the front seat. The cable didnt break, the plastic connector that holds it securely to the actuator snapped. Therefore, when I try to actuate it, it tends to want to pull on the whole cable assembly rather than just the inner cable. Just so you understand. Matt P.S. To Unverviking: I grew up in Webster NY, and my folks still reside there.. the ROC is a nice place to live.. Sometimes I miss it.

I just replaced cam and crank seals, and used some PVC plumbing pieces I had left over from installing a new kitchen sink to drive them in. I worked slowly, tapping them in squarely. If I had large diameter sockets, that would have been easier, and probably quicker and more professional-like, but what can I say? The junk plumbing pieces were way cheaper than me buying a new 3/4 drive socket set, although I have had my eye on this certain set for a while... Perhaps my wife wouldn't mind me spending a few extra bucks if it would help decrease our repair costs in the long run... Matt

My 96 Legacy had an inoperative fuel door release cable for many months. It seemed like it would be a pain to fix, though the part only costs 26 bucks so I left it alone for a while. When I bought my parts for the much-anticipated "Timing Belt Replacement of 2005," I also got a new release cable from 1stsubaruparts.com. (BTW I had no problems with my 1st time order from them, I would recommend them.) Last weekend, I got energetic, so I took out the driver's and rear seats, pulled back the carpet and installed the new cable. It was actually pretty easy. While I was working on it, I found that the Trunk release cable is also defective. It still works intermittently, and I can always open it with the key, so it is no big deal. I am just wondering if this is a common problem. I did a search and only found one other post on this subject... Anyone else face similar problems on a car that is only 8 or 9 yrs old? Matt D

In the Haynes manual, it suggests depressurizing the fuel system by accessing the fuel pump through the back seat or trunk area access door, disconnecting the electrical connector, then starting the car and running it until it dies from fuel exhaustion. The last time I changed the fuel filter, I did that and it seemed like a lot of extra work. Others say to leave the fuel system pressurized and just disconnect the hoses from the filter, there isn't that much pressure in them anyway. A better idea may be to pull the fuse for the fuel pump and run the engine to depressurize? matt

I know I am going to get blasted for this, but 40000 miles ago I put basic Autolite plugs in my 2.2, and they have performed perfectly. I inspect them about every 15000 miles, and they have not had much wear. I just replaced them with Autolite platinum with no problems. They were inexpensive at Wal-mart, and they seem to work fine. Granted, I am not racing or offroading, but I have had reliable transportation, excellent fuel economy and easy starting. Personally, I have a feeling that the spark plug debate is probably similar to the oil debate... Use whatever you're comfortable with if it works well for you. Matt

PB Blaster is a type of penetrating oil. I changed my water pump, too, so I removed the radiator/fan assembly since I was going to replace the hoses too. That gave me a couple extra inches of room, and it is really easy to remove. There are only two bolts on the top of the radiator holder. Once those are removed, the whole assembly lifts out. I removed the water pump after I had already removed the cam sprockets and rear covers. I don't think you need to, though. I can't honestly remember. To remove the cam seals, I used a small jewelers or precision flathead screwdriver and poked it into the soft part of the seal, digging into the seal (damaging it) and prying it out, being careful not to scratch the shaft or seating area. It took many jabs and pries over and over around the seal to loosen it. I used penetrating oil to help slide it out. Once I got the seal out far enough that it started to protrude past the engine block, I could get leverage with a large flathead screwdriver. By the time I got to that point, it was easy. I spent about 15 minutes of poking and prodding to remove each seal. You have to be patient. I hope this info helps. Remember to replace the thermostat and hoses when you change the H20 pump. They are cheap. Matt D

Thanks for the info. I figured I'd be ok, just wanted some feedback. I was thinking of replacing the axle myself, It doesn't seem too complicated, but then I saw all the posts on how its a big pain to get the nut off the axle, etc. My local Subaru shop will do it for about 100 bucks, so maybe I'll just take it in.

Unfortunately, my front right outboard CV Joint boot developed a huge crack that I first noticed in October. Obviously, replacing the driveaxle has been on my list of things to do, but you know what happens. Everything was OK for several months, but for the last few weeks I get the tell-tale clicking sound when making slow-speed right turns. My question is: Is my CV joint in critical condition? Can I wait a few more weeks or a month for my Tax refund? Am I risking catastrophic failure? I need to know what is the worst that could happen. I don't mind the car being out of commission until I get it fixed, and I know I don't want my car to come apart while I am driving it. Thanks, Matt 96 Legacy L 5MT AWD 116,000 mi.

I used a 2-jaw puller, but ended up breaking a small portion of the rearmost rib on the pulley, so I gave that up and used a box end wrench to pry between the timing cover and the pulley. I cracked the timing cover after a few tries, so I figured what the hell, and got more aggressive, since I already knew I sacrificed the cover. I tried not to do any damage to the timing components, so I worked slowly and carefully. I found a used t-belt center cover at a junkyard for 15 bucks. The pulley was stuck very tight. after I got it off, I found there was some gunk cementing it to the shaft. Could have been a little bit of oil or grease worked its way in and cooked. I cleaned the parts afterward and gave them a slight buffing with some ultra fine steel wool. It was well below freezing when I changed my timing belt (1st week of Jan) so I also used a small propane torch to gently heat the center of the pulley to help break it loose. I probably heated it to about 200 degrees, If that. I didn't want to overheat it and cause more problems. I also used PB Blaster to begin with, but a lot of force and patience were still required.. Matt D 96 Legacy L 2.2 MT AWD 116,000 miles P.S. That was the hardest part of the disassembly process. Everything else went well. If you decide to change the oil seals, be prepared for more frustration!! Thanks to all the help I got on this message board!!

I guess I am a dork too, because I always read the manuals that come with my equipment, etc. Unfortunately, I bought my Subaru used without a manual, and I didn't ever take the time or money to buy a new one. I found the parking light switch on my own, as I am the type to find and push all the buttons. I can't say I ever left it on and drained the battery, but I have left the dome light on by mistake a couple of times. When I was 3 yrs old I got in big trouble for pushing the emergency stop button on a department store escalator. I guess I'll never learn.. But I never have used the parking light switch for any useful purpose. Matt

About Special Tools: A 22mm socket for the crankshaft bolt, a rubber strap wrench to hold the cam sprockets when loosening or tightening the bolts (cheap at sears.) I have a manual trans. so to break the crank bolt loose, I just put the car in 5th and put on the E-brake and went to town with a breaker bar and 22 mm socket. Very easy, actually. You need a vise or c-clamp to recompress the belt tensioner. A torque wrench and a modest set of metric sockets and extensions, a few screwdrivers, some rags, etc. are all that I've needed. The socket sizes range from 10 to 17mm, with the exception of the crank bolt. Since I was changing the water pump and hoses, I decided to remove the radiator, although I guess it isn't really necessary. There are only 2 bolts holding it in place. Pretty easy for the most part, just a lot of steps, nothing too mind-boggling.

I am the proud owner of a 96 Legacy with 115,000 miles, and I am 3/4 of the way through the same project. Here are some highlights: 1. The crankshaft pulley was bonded tightly to the crankshaft. I used PB Blaster, knocked on it a bit with a hammer, tried a puller, which broke a tiny piece of the pulley off (about 2mm of the rearmost rib of the pulley,) heated the center of the pulley with a torch because it is below zero here, tried prying with various tools, and finally had the most luck wedging a box end wrench between the pulley and the timing belt cover. I got the pulley off, but I cracked the center portion of the cover. Luckily, I have a local junk shop that specializes in Subarus, so he found me a replacement cover for only 15 bucks. 2. The camshaft seals were not leaking, but based on the recommendations of this group, I decided to change them anyway. About 15 minutes into trying to remove the first seal, I wished I had left them alone. I had successfully damaged the seal beyond usefulness, but it did not want to budge. I used various implements, including some old surplus surgical tools that I had found. I was about ready to give up, so I came inside and read a few of these posts, and prepared for the second round. With patience, persistence, sweat, and some strong language, I was able to coax the first seal out and replace it without causing any damage that I could see. I was hesitant to try the second seal, but I went for it, and it turned out to be a little easier. I found that if i used a small screwdriver to pry the edges of the seal away from the shaft and the seal fitting, I could lubricate the seal with a little penetrating oil, then it was a matter of coaxing the seal out slowly until it was out far enough to get some leverage with a bigger screwdriver. Once it has come out far enough that 1 to 2 mm are protruding from the engine surface, it is easy. It is those first few mm's that are frustrating. 3. After removing the oil pump, I found that everything was healthy. The backing plate screws were secure, there was a good o-ring, which I replaced anyway, and I was surprised to see how clean the inside of the pump and engine were. When I removed the crankshaft oil seal, I found it had two small cracks in it. It wasn't leaking yet, but I am glad I fixed it before a chunk broke or the cracks worsened. 4. I replaced the water pump, thermostat, gaskets, and hoses, all of which seemed ok, but I knew they were old and weren't too expensive. By the way, I have a used but fully functional water pump that I'd be willing to give to anyone who wants it, just pay for shipping.. 5. Unfortunately, one of the smooth idlers is in need of replacement. Just waiting for the part before I can finish. Why are they so expensive?? Luckily, I am getting an new OEM part at a good discount. The posts on this board were extremely helpful. I knew just what I was getting into, and with the exceptions of the few problems I noted, everything has gone very smoothly. Thanks to everyone on this board who gave their advice and esp. all the photos. Matt P.S. Will the small notch broken out of the back of the pulley do any harm? I can post a pic if anyone wants to see it.

I bought my Legacy in 2000, used, with only 56000 miles, and the climate control backlighting never worked. I tried unsuccessfully in the past to diagnose it, but gave up until I saw this post. Yesterday, I took the thing out, spent 15 minutes replacing 3 bulbs, and popped it back in. Works great. The only problem is that I damaged the green covers for the lamps. Unfortunately, the heat from the lamps must have fused the rubber to the glass, because all three of them were difficult to remove, and I ripped them. I decided to just leave them off. It would be cool if I could find something to replace them, but I doubt that will happen. Thanks to all your help. Replacing the bulbs could not have been easier. The whole process took about 1/2 hour. By the way, The small bulbs were not available at my local radio shack, so I ordered some online at Mouser Electronics. The shipping cost more than the bulbs, so I bought extra. If anyone needs them, send me a message and I could easily mail some out at a great low price. Matt

My subaru has a pseudo-conservative look to it, is married to a Kennedy, and speaks in an Austrian accent, if that helps.... On that note, anyone got the answer about the belt?? Matt D