BigMattyD

I think the cost was about 60 bucks plus the core charge, but every other place wanted around 120 for a rebuilt. New was about 225. Matt

My alternator is on its way from 1stsubaruparts.com! I can't believe how much alternators cost these days!! I remember when they used to be around 40 bucks! Matt D

Thanks for the info. I did a little checking last night and found no output from the alternator at any RPM. I don't know why the light went out on the instrument panel when the RPM was over 2500, becaue the voltage did not increase. I'm glad I checked it, because I would have been stranded if the battery went dead today. Luckily I have a spare vehicle to get around in. Matt D

I cleaned my engine compartment with some degreaser and H20 this weekend, and had no engine or electrical problems, even right after cleaning. Today my alternator light and brake light come on whenever the engine rpm is below 2500. Above 2500, they both turn off. My question is, why the alternator and brake lamp? How are they connected? Is this an instrument panel issue or an alternator issue? I haven't tested the voltage output yet, as I am at work. I can get an alternator for 50 or 60 bucks, maybe I'll just replace it and see what happens. Matt D

I have and Advance and a NAPA store in my town, and I have used both. The Advance store is bigger, and they have been relatively helpful, but once in a while you have to talk to a moron. They have excellent hours, though, even on weekends. The NAPA people are excellent, but in my local store, they are never open when I need them. I think they close at 5 or 6 pm, but advance is open till 9pm. I also buy OEM parts from 1stsubaruparts or subarupartsforyou.com. Matt D

I bought an Equus 3100 OBDII code reader. It is very easy to use, and it's available online or in auto stores. It is great if you just want to read or clear the codes. It will not monitor sensors, etc. Matt

To all: I got a chance to do some work on the car today, this is what happened: I localized the loud ticking sound to the driver's side of the engine. I removed the battery, washer reservoir, and valve cover on that side. I removed the 8 bolts that hold the rocker arm assembly to the cylinder head and removed the assembly for inspection. On inspection, I found that all four of the hydraulic lash adjusters (HLA's, lifters, tappets?) on the upper side of the rocker arm assembly were out of oil and depressing fully, without resistance. This was causing the loud tapping sound and causing the valves to incompletely open. I removed the faulty HLA's and refilled them with oil per the Haynes manual and Subaru manual, and put them back on the rocker arms. After I reassembled the engine, there was no ticking!!! (For about five minutes.) Then the ticking began again. I did some research into the lubrication system, and decided that something must be keeping oil from getting to the upper HLA's on one side of the engine only. I went back to work. This time, after I disassembled the rocker arm assembly, I also got a piece of copper wire and tried to clean out any oil passages I saw. They all appeared to be open. Then, as I was cleaning the main oil passage into the rocker arm shaft, I found that I could not easily clean it, due to the configuration of the passage. I removed the end of the rocker arm so I could get to the oil passage. That's when I found the culprit. A small piece of gasket sealant had worked its way into the oil passage, partially obstructing it. There must have been enough oil getting past it to supply the lower HLA's, but not enough pressure to force oil up and into the upper ones. I drove the car for a while and have had zero ticking. The piece of gasket was from when I re-sealed the oil pump in January. I must have gotten a little messy with the goop. The moral of this story is: Be careful not to apply too much RTV gasket sealant the next time you re-seal your oil pump! Matt

I put some seafoam in, and drove around a while. Changed oil and filter, added seafoam to new oil. Still ticking. I am going to drive it around a few more days, and if the ticking doesn't stop, I'm going to remove the valve cover and inspect the rocker arm assembly for clogged oil passages or stuck hydraulic lash adjusters. I resealed the oil pump in January when I changed the timing belt. I am wondering if some gasket compound got into the oil and plugged up one of those tiny oil passages. Especially since the problem started suddenly the other day. Matt D

I have the 2.2L engine, if that helps. From searching the database, it looks like the most likely culprit is a valve lifter. I am going to try the seafoam treatment in the oil and do an oil change soon. I'll also research the work involved to replace the valve lifters. Matt D

p.s. It is not piston slap, it doesn't go away when the engine warms up. matt

Today, I noticed a relatively loud clicking sound coming from my engine. It is something I haven't heard before. At idle rpm, it clicks at a rate of about 6 or 7 times per second, and increases with engine rpm. I cannot localize it to any particular area of the engine, but I will try again later today. I checked the oil, and it is 1/2 qt above the full mark. The engine runs fine, no loss of power or other symptoms, just the noise. It is audible inside the car, even with the air vents on medium. Could having the engine overfilled with oil cause this symptom? It sounds like a valve problem to me, but I don't have a lot of experience in that area. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Matt

I don't know how old my coolant was at the time I bought my car, but I never changed it or had any coolant loss, so I knew it was a few years old. I changed my water pump and radiator hoses at the time of the seals and timing belt, and I was surprised that there was no gunk or scale in the system. I refilled the system with distilled H20 and new antifreeze. I figure it will last me another few years. Make sure after you refill the system to properly purge the air out of the system. Matt D

I usually get 24 or 25 mpg under normal to aggressive driving conditions, and I can milk out 30-31 mpg when I drive for maximum economy (like an old lady.) I have not seen any substantial decline in mpg since I bought my vehicle in 2001, but I take good care of it. Matt

Yeah, the "drill and screw" method doesn't work unless you have a drill that will fit into cramped quarters. I almost did the same thing and tried to fit my normal-sized drill into the engine compartment at an angle to the seal face, but stopped before I did any damage. The bent screwdriver routine sounds the best to me, but I don't have any bent screwdrivers, or any easy way to do it. I don't even have a vise. I really could use a proper workshop. Matt P.S. Congrats on finishing the seals. Once you start, you can't go back and undo the damage you cause, so I guess you just have to keep going. P.P.S. I hope the line about reusing the old coolant is a joke... It's not too expensive or difficult to put fresh coolant in, unless you recently cleaned the system...

I think the best way would be to drill 2 small holes in the face of the seal, screw in a couple of screws, and pull on the screws. When I changed my seals, I didn't have a drill small enough to fit in the space available, so I dug mine out with a small, precision flathead screwdriver. I tore the seal to hell, and I used some penetrating oil to help slide the seals out. It took about 10 or 15 minutes of patient digging and prying for each seal. Just be careful not to mar the sealing surfaces on the block or shafts. Matt

I bought my Legacy used in 2001, and it never had a gasket on the oil plug, and I never knew it needed one. I have changed the oil dozens of times, no leaks ever. I am not sure that the washer is necessary, at least on my car. I don't plan to ever use one if I don't need to. Matt

Replacing brake pads shouldn't even take 1/2 a day. It shouldn't take more thatn 30-45 minutes per wheel, but if it's your first time, I would guess it would take a little longer. After you remove the wheel, compress the caliper with a c-clamp, then remove it, then remove the lower caliper bolt, and the whole caliper will pivot on the upper bolt, you do not need to remove it or even loosen it, as I recall. Then remove the old pads, (You may need to use a blunt instrument to pry the brake pads out of the caliper if they're tight) ,clean the metal anti-rattle clips or replace them with new ones, and insert the new pads into the caliper. Pivot the caliper back on to the disc, put some anti-seize compound on the lower bolt, replace the bolt, and tighten. Replace the wheel and you're all set. Pump the brakes a few times after replacing each set of pads to force brake fluid into the calipers or you will have no brakes when you try them the next time. You should not have to bleed the brakes, because you are not disconnecting any brake lines. The hydraulic system will stay sealed. If your car is old and you feel like draining and replacing the brake fluid as an additional step, that's a whole other story... Matt P.S. This is for my 96 Legacy. Your vehicle may be a little different.

Is there a fuse in the fuse panel that is dedicated to the rear defroster? If so, I would check that first. Matt

This is my 1st Subaru, I've had it for five years, and it has been excellent. I have had to perform routine maintenance, and replace the fuel door cable, but the car is exceedingly easy to work on. I plan on keeping it forever. I am just starting to get a little rust, and the clear coat is peeling in a few areas. As long as I can keep it mechanically sound, I'll be driving this car at least to work and back for years to come!! Matt

Check out www.subarupartsforyou.com They have OEM wires at a decent cost. I have used them before, They did fine by me. Matt

It is probably the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Mine died a couple of years ago, no speedo or odometer, plus the engine would cut out at a lower rpm than redline. It cost about $110 to replace at a dealer. I think the actual sensor was about 60 dollars. The VSS on my car is attached to the transmission, and in some cars there are two of them, I think. Matt

The 96 Legacy I drive has cable-operated drum e-brakes inside the rear discs. matt

I have used 1stsubaruparts.com and subarupartsforyou.com. Both are dealer service departments with good prices. 1st parts is on the west coast, and sub parts for you is on the east coast. 1st sub parts has a better online search engine, but I have had excellent results with both. Matt

I believe the Vehicle Speed Sensor is located on the transmission. Some cars have two of them, I think. Matt

I have a 96 Legacy, and have noticed the ticking noise on startup too. I recall having read some posts that the ticking in the valve train is ok. Maybe you can do a search and see what you come up with. matt