bluebaru

yeah. if i can get this dual transfer case and solid axle conversion worked out you wont be able to miss the pictures of my car. hahah

still runs great by the way. even after being passed around several times. still doesnt have any frame rust or rot just a little cosmetic stuff. im hopefully going to be doing a sas on the car here in a few months...

yeah i have that car now FTW

either way is fine. what ever is easier. thanks.

so i have a few questions for those that have done straight axle conversions, specifically those who use toyota axles. Can the subaru master cylinder handle the toyota brakes? they seem significantly larger than my disc also, can anyone post some pictures of their frames and axles under their subarus im going to be doing this swap in a few months and i want to learn as much a possible first. also, if there is a thread with pictures about this alread can someone post a link, i couldnt find anything

You can put the rain gutter tower mounts any where on the raingutter theyre not gonna fall off it you open the doors. i have mine over the doors even on my loyales and have had no problems. as for the surco stuff it looks like its prolly just some boring stamped cheap stuff where as the yakima basket and bars are at least some heavy duty tubular. some times cost isnt the only factor that needs to be considered

Use the yakima 1A raingutter towers and their roundbars. All modern day yakima and thule stuff is compatible now also so thats a good thing. the yakima will be most likely cheap to get, just go to a bike shop or a ski shop.

one of these days all the subaru peeps in missouri need to go out for a drive together.

the 3at might have enough gearing to go up some hills but its gonna get the hell torn out of it if you have anything hilly plus with real off road tires even the d/r low range isnt really low enough for serious hills and serious hard driving. bottom line: it cant help, and it can definentaly hurt...

I would make it rear wheel drive with the front wheels having some serious travel. like some type of 6 inch suspension lift with a few inches added travel in front and a 4 inch lift in back

i noticed today that my cable stop for the throttle cable was loose and that the throttle cable was just a hair loose so i tightened both of those things and now the car doesnt seem to have that same hesitation. might be something to check while your at it:)

Hell mine have always just rusted off by themselves

just slap some mountain grizzly stickers on the side. i get nothing but respect!

Mine seems to do this two if I let off the gas with the car in gear and then reapply the gas. I have a weber also, but i had always figured it was because the car did have enough power to turn over the big tires... it just seemed like a sort of stall almost because it would go away if id tap the clutch.

my ea81 is like that now that its starting to get cold. i have a weber carb. i noticed though that when you crank it if you just hold down the gas it will go even on the first crank. also you have to rev it up some if its a completely cold start as it wont idle until warm. try just giving it some more gas i guess and see if it wants to go then...

if its all jacked up(not sitting down to the console in fwd) from a lift kit or tranny swap like a 4spd to 5spd i guess it could interfere with the shifting...

yeah i changed the filter and drained from both till nothing was coming out but i dont really know what was going on. the pressure reads about 25psi but thats just on the crappy dash gauge i dont think i would trust it very much...

Ok so i changed the oil today and put in 4.2 quarts like the service manual and everything i have ever seen says(ea81 4wd) so i check the dipstick after i put in the oil and it reads way over full. i think no big deal the oil just needs to be run through the engine. so i run the car at idle for a few minutes and then tear it up around the block for a minute or two. get back and the dipstick still reads way over full? which do i trust? dipstick ? or the fact that i put in 4.2 quarts like the manual says?

Oh yeah its the one. I was fully aware of the conditions of the car i just want to be able to get it street legal here. we dont really have "emissions" here but i still have to get the stuff fixed to pass our inspections. he did give me a service manual though, it helped me answer a lot of my own questions, doh

took the mountain grizzly to the shop today to be inspected and proceeded to fail miserably: Catylatic convertor missing- hehe ooopps Crankcase ventilation not hooked up- anyone know what this would normally go to? Evaporative Emissions system missing Oxygen sensor not hooked up- wire was just cut though lugnuts pulling through rim- think just needs bigger lugnuts no high beam indicator- who would have guessed they check that:rolleyes: Lower ball joint missing cotter pin Thought i might be able to catch a break on this one but it looks like i have some stuff to fix...

"I swear that there was a spider on the gound guys!"

Dammit. I'd totally go but thats the day I pick up my new car...

I would ask about the track mount if you can get a hold of them before you order it, it will be better for the car then jamming those things down into the raingutter. The track mount looks like it should bolt right into the rectangular pieces that the factory rack bolts to in the guides. It would be more solid too... see if they know if it will work.

I work for a bike shop and we sell a lot of yakima racks and I have used them before on my loyales. You need the Raingutter 1A towers which are pretty cheap now because not a lot of cars use them any more, dont get the Q towers because they cost more, also you could use the lowrider towers and take off the bottom parts and put them into the factory rack guides. go to a bike shop and try and get and old pair they have sitting around for cheap and then all you need is the cross bars ($55) and the rack. The advantage to using the yakima system is that then you can get mounts for anything from bikes to kayaks on your roof and its super solid, everything is REALLY tough. If you can find the right old parts it can prolly be done cheap too.

So the other day I was driving home in my loyale wagon(fwd 3at) and noticed that the oil pressure was very low according to the gauge then I looked and saw that the temperature was all the way off the charts. As I was slowing down to pull over the car died, but I was able to get it restarted. The car did not steam but did make a rattle when the throttle was applied. I was able to get it the half mile home. I let the car cool down over night and then refilled the coolant which was entirely empty. Now when the car is run it runs well for about 15 minutes but steam or liquid water will come out of the exhaust. After about 15 minute the oil pressure will fall and then the car overheats and dies. I saw this once before on a BMW that had a cracked head. Is it likely that a crack has formed between a cylinder head and a coolant tube, or is there something else that I might be missing? Lemme know what you guys think.