artistic_gore

They wanted $160 to pressure test the heads. I chose not to lap or grind the valves initially because I don't have a spring compressor. I'll have to see if I can rent one and invest in a lapping kit or grind tool.

I did not grind the valves but they were not leaking prior to tearing it apart. I guess I will have to get a spring compressor and grind tool and have another go. It will give me an opportunity to replace the stem seals as well.

I put a new headgasket on my ea82 and it's still going nowhere fast. I know I should have had the head checked and possibly shaved but I really don't have the cash. Anyway, now that I have the headgasket on air is escaping through the valves, is there a cheap way to have them rebuilt or should I be looking for a junkyard motor. I'm at a loss. Thanks

Nevermind, please delete.

First, the ticker is at 278,000 (this isn't a concern by itself) and I am curious as to what I should look for at that mileage. The CO (current owner) says it has a leaky valve cover gasket. Is that a common problem, I changed the gaskets on my dads 89 long ago due to a split but I'm just wondering if I can rest assured that it is the VC gasket and not the HG. Also, he says the throw out bearing is chirping. My question is what would be the average cost of having the bearing and the clutch replaced? My sister ran her XT in this condition for many several hundred miles (in fact I think it may have been thousands) so it's not a huge concern either, I'm just looking for a cost estimate so I know if I'll be able to afford it when it comes up (or hopefully before that) Lastly, what is the recommended interval for timing belt replacement? I think for my legacy it was around 130,000? (please don't smite me if I am wrong). CO says it was replaced somewhere around 80,000 ago. I tend to trust him, he is from seattle after all. Thanks, Bryce

I totally hear you on the budget thing, one of these days I'll punch out my forward cat to get rid of the damn rattling

My car did the same thing but it is an auto. I can't remember if it was the cam position sensor or knock sensor that caused it since I had to replace both, but once I did my car was running fine.

A lot of military bases have auto hobby shops, anyone with access to the base can use the shop as far as I know.

This sounds likely, it's a problem I have right now and my car takes a little bit to start but starts every time. However, some food for thought; have your car ran for codes again at a parts store, you may have a failing cam position sensor. Mine was going and as it got worse it got harder and harder to start (on occasion(usually while it was hot)) until finally it refused to start all together. I replaced just the cam sensor and she fired right up even with a near dead battery. I then replaced the knock sensor but that's besides the point.

I flipped a b*tch once; I then flipped the outback over down an embankment and into a tree. That was a bad day.

Just a quick hijack, is it possible for the cam position sensor to go bad over time? Like throw a code but not be dead yet and get worse and worse until it finally goes caput? My car has been throwing the cam position sensor code for about two months but today it wouldn't start at all, after I got to work of course. Today I ordered the cam position sensor, knock sensor and just for good measure the coolant temp sensor. I will have to wait to get the O2 sensor though since I am now all out of cash. Every time you think you're getting ahead....

Can the front O2 sensor be replaced with an after market unit? I am throwing this code currently along with a few others that I am trying to remedy. Also if it comes right down to it and I have to replace the cat would this be an acceptable replacement? It says bolt in but for $140 I don't want to be wrong.

My car vibrates when low on trans fluid. It also doesn't like taking off, it will run up to 4000rpm before it will take off from a dead stop. This is when the trans fluid is at the low warm mark, I add 1/2qt to 1qt of fluid and it goes away.

Hmm...Seems fine. I need to add some trans fluid and hopefully I can run her for another 37490mi. I want to break 200000 at least now that I am nearing a grand into the car. I guess I can look at it from the perspective that it has a new waterpump, hoses, thermostat, and timing belt it should be fine now

The shop says they drove it for 15 miles and couldn't get it to act up. They checked out my radiator, heads, and checked my coolant temp at the top and bottom of the system and says it was equal ?meaning I have good flow? I'm guessing there still may have been air trapped in the system and while they were running tests they may have fixed it accidentally , I'm not sure but on my way home I am going to conveniently drive past midas and if it starts to overheat by then I am going to pull in there, have them look at it and try to get a refund from the first shop. I really hope nothing is wrong but after 3+ days of fiddling with it I am skeptical.