frag

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1996 Legacy Brighton. It takes 4X8 plywood sheets flat on top of the strut towers. I just put some duck tape there for protection. Of course the hatch does'nt close. Open all windows and the ventilation fan to max if you dont want to inhale exhaust gases.

If you say so. But I hope humour suits us both.

If someone somewhat intellectually challenged can be permitted to join, for a moment, this learned assembly of geniuses, I would propose that if your misfire never returns while the vac gauge is connected, maybe the problem has to do with the vaccuum connexion you used to connect the gauge. A little too obvious maybe, but I'm trying not to exceed my range.

Sorry for the slip. I meant "block" of course.

Looking at the head, top going left to right 3 - 1 - 6 bottom going left to right 5 - 2 - 4 All tightening must follow the usual sequence 1 to 6 1) All to 22 ft-lbs 2) All to 51 3) Loosen all 180° 4) Again 5)1 and 2 (non turbo) to 25 ft-lbs 6) 3,4,5 and 6 (non turbo) to 132 in-lbs (divide by 12 for ft-lbs) 7) all an additionnal 90° 8) Again You gave the bolts 12 times the recommended torque. I'm very surprised the bolts broke. I would have thought an aluminum head would have stripped before breaking a steel bolt of that diameter. Good luck!

And you should. Nothing wrong with it. I meant mine only as a complement. Have a good day!

I do not have the expertise to really answer your question, but interestingly, I planed to make just that test - with an electronic thermometer - the minute I suspected I had a bad wheel bearing. If it were my car and no other source of heat was present (like dragging brakes for instance) I would conclude that something is amiss with the bearing.

According to Socrates, the real problem is when you don't know THAT you don't know. Philosophy and the art of Subaru maintenance...

Another possibility worth exploring. Since the only thing done to the car recently is timing belt and if the noise seems to come from the front of the engine (timing belt cover), maybe the tensionner is bad (what method did you use to compress it ?). A bad tensionner is known to produce sounds comparable to what you describe. Just another possibility.

Here in Montreal, very cold winters and hot summers and 60% seems to do the trick summer and winter. Never had the coolant freeze or boil nor had the temp needle higher than normal.

Time to change your avatar to Screwbaru4

And you might install longer lasting plugs, platinum or irridium.

That's all right. I had'nt taken you first response seriously about «stirring the pot», that's why I answered like I did. Case closed. Have a good day.

Hey, Grossgary, you're making all sorts of assumptions here. I only asked a question and replied to one of your sentence in a humorous way. Nowhere did I wrote or even imply " that this kind of stuff will blow your engine off". You're also implying that maybe "intelligent discussion" is not my style. I find that insulting and uncalled for. You should reread the thread. Maybe you're confusing me with another poster. Like I wrote in my last post, i'm only anxious to know if my well used (old) pulley should be replaced as preventive maintenance and if so with same or something else. Cool down man!

Well, if the truth lies at the bottom of the pot, why not stir it a little . I was asking cause my car is at the end of its thirteenth year and this thread got me a little anxious about that pulley maybe about to play tricks on me.

What is the function of the rubber part in the pulley and why do you think this is not at all essential, to the point it could be replaced with a solid metal one? Just want to know and probably others. Thanks.

I stand corrected. I just understood you meant turning it 180 ° keeping the bearing on the same plane. I first tought you meant flipping it over (that would keep the angle constant) That seemed odd.

In the case of my 96 2.2 L MT, IIRC, the throw out or release bearing could go only one way. Maybe cause of the way the spring clips are connected to it... (?) Anyway, since this bearing fit on a round shaft, if your's can go both ways, the angle relative to the fork and relative to the pressure plate will be exactly the same. My two...

Anybody knows why a crank position sensor is around 300$ 92-94 and 25$ 95 on? How can such a simple part cost so much and then almost nothing? I guess the're not interchangeable?

I fill the filter by hand when doing an oil change, but I could use your method easily. My antitheft system cuts out ignition and fuel delivery. So if I dont desactivate it, I can turn the engine over as long as I want without the engine starting. Is'nt that also possible with most other kiinds of antitheft systems?

The machine shop will remove the same thickness of material from the outer part of the flywheel where the pressure plate bolts on. This will have the effect of keeping the same distance between the pressure plate and flywheel. So no chim is involved.

I should have written: "my" 96 2.2L engine with MT does not have EGR. Sorry for the faulty generalisation.

Also no EGR on the 96 MY (1996 Brighton, MT, 2.2 L). FYI

Imagine what 5.60 a gallon can do... (price of fuel here in Montreal)