frag

At my age, I might just try that myself. It might stop the old joints from creaking...

Can't help you on that one. I took the engine out instead of dropping the trans. I think aircraft eng. has it figured out.

If the only thing wrong with it is the pedal seeming to require to little pressure, dont worry. Same thing happened just after I replaced my clutch last summer, it almost felt like the cable was'nt tied to anything. It came back to normal inside a couple of weeks. I think it's the fresh grease applied between the fork and throw out bearing and between the throw out bearing and shaft that's responsible for that feeling. Just my .02$

Glad to know I'm not alone

Not sure I will keep at this any further than this post, but read this other thread where the OP HAS a case of torque bind that was alleviated by putting the FWD fuse in. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84696&highlight=torque+bind What is Nipper's verdict? «Drive in FWD mode, it makes the car more stable to drive. you dont have a duty C problem, you have a clutchpack problem. You can either save money a- for a used tranny, or b - rebuild the clutch pack. Nipper» What I'm getting at is that when you have torque bind with an AT and you put the fwd fuse in and the torque bind goes away, it CAN mean you have a problem with the clutch pack. That all I wrote in my first post and, writing that, I was not putting things backwards.

Gloyale, if you follow the link below (and there are others), you'll see a case where after inserting the fwd fuse the torque bind went away. It was afterwards found that the clutch pack was the culprit. Must mean something... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81062&highlight=torque+bind

Waiting for the gurus to show up, I can already tell you one thing. Under the hood, near the firewall I think, is a fuse holder marked «two wheel drive" or «front wheel drive». If you put a fuse in there (I guess 20 amp shoud do) Your car will be front wheel drive. If it's a problem with the AWD it will subside. If everything stays the same, then it's something else.

You're in the right place to get help, but people will want to know if it's manual or auto.

Skip, the shade-tree and side-of-the-street mechanic I am is looking at your pics like a poor child at a candy store. I need an icon for «drooling». What's that hanging from the rafters?

And why not call them Toyorus ? Are'nt we playing with ours ?

I'm just wondering about that pilot bearing falling out when you unbolted the pressure plate. What follows is pure speculation, but I dont see how what happened to your disc can have the effect of extracting the pilot bearing from the flywheel. Is it possible the pilot bearing falling out was the cause of what happened? Why it fell out is another question... Since I did'nt completely trust myself doing it and since it did'nt raise the cost, when I had my flywheel resurfaced, I asked the shop guy to press in the new pilot bearing. Is it at all possible ( I dont remember the exact relation of the input shaft and pilot bearing-flywheel) for the pilot bearing to slide back on the input shaft ?

About the cam position sensor. I forgot to reconnect it the first time I replaced the timing belt and the car would not start. Just to confirm that if something's wrong with this sensor, the car might not be able to start. HTH.

The best ones are the worm-band type made of stainless steel. No more problems after that.

On top of what has already been said, i would carry a remaned alt and drive belt if those you're using are not recent. I would also carry spare lamps (headlights most of all). Burnt bulbs dont stop cars but... And a good spare and a tire repair kit. We are talking about a million miles into the bush are'nt we ?

I second Skip on that one. I had the same problem last summer when I replaced my clutch. With the dogbone unbolted (simple to do and undo) you'll get the movement you need to line up the engine mounts bolts.

Have a look a this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84440

A little too hign in my opinion. That's over 750 rpm and normal idle is closer to 700 rpm. When idling at operating temp the needle on my tach is just below that same line. Has been idling there for 7 years, execpt for the period when I had a burnt exhaust valve.

I put in the new «extended life» Mobil 1 5-30 just before the real cold temp sets in and do the next oil change when it gets warmer in spring. It's worth the price for me.

...and wife. Am I wrong thinking the hatch was faster getting back to operating temp ?

When I replaced my clutch last summer, the shop that did the flywheel left a «texture» on the flywheel surface where the disk contacts it. I dont remember what the pattern of this texture was but it was done on purpose and a few thousand kilometers later the clutch is still smooth and engages flawlessly. Is this a usual practice or not ? What do you think of it ? Do you do something like that yourself ? P.-S.: The same machinist also shaved a few thousandts of the outer portion of the flywheel surface where the pressure plate bolts on, to «make the clutch grab stronger ». Same questions about that practice. Thanks in advance. Please excuse my barging in. I thought those questions might interest the posters in this thread.

I'm trying to help a friend who owns a 96 Sentra with idle and stalling problems. Anyone knows a good Nissan board? I made a Google search and did'nt find anything. Or anybody with a 96 (or close MY) Sentra I could pm a question to ? Thanks in advance.

Why should we be biaised? We own the best cars in the world...

A few years ago, I tested OEM and aftermarket side by side and, IIRC, the aftermarket one had a smaller opening, opened later, stayed open for a shorter time. And was, as the above photo shows, flimsier.

Thanks for the replies. Old style ignition coils had easily accessible open "screw on" primary connections. Not so with modern coil packs and ignitors. How exactly do you «tap in» those connections without harming anything ?

If I have permission to hop on board a bit, I have a digital multimeter with a dwell tach function but it has only two wires. Where do I connect those two wires to have a rpm reading? Thanks in advance.