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There was a long discussion in january (in which I was a participant) around a similar problem. Here are two links: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82266&highlight=compression+braking and http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=83815&highlight=compression+braking

Remove the hose going to the pcv and push some pigtails aside. A medium lengt extension with the proper size socket will get it out. I think I used long nosed pliers to remove the connector first. There will be a small amount of coolant seeping out. You can lower the coolant level in the rad by a couple of inches to prevent that.

Thanks for your responses. Good info. I intend to tie the kayak first to the bars themselves and then front and back with Y straps. I might shift the anchor points a bit but not enough so that it becomes a safety hazard. Thanks again.

Just bought a pair of Thule bars for my 96 Leg Brighton Wagon (bare top, no preinstalled rails). Want to transport a medium length kayak (11 feet). The specifications are to position the front bar 33 inches from the top of the windshield and to put the rear one 28 to 31 inches from the front one. I find that the bars are too far back and too close to each other. The seller, a Thule and Yakima specialist insists that I should follow the specifications for my car. What would be the problem of putting the bars more to the front and farther apart? Anyone has a Legacy with Thule bars? How did you install them?

It all depends. Lots and lots of years ago the trans on my front wheel drive Austin 1800 stuck in fourth. It took me one full week and the help of the shop manual to open the trans and find the problem. I had almost no experience doing mechanics and I repaired it successfully. Maybe I was lucky. If you're patient and have lots of time, maybe you can repair it. If it's not external of course. I dont remember the exact details, but the problem was a bulged washer (?) (2 or 3 inches across) at the end of one of the shafts. I had a new one machined and replaced it.

I do pretty much the same thing when it's possible. Next step is a sail.

About underligned passage: that's what I did when I replaced left head on my motor last summer. The stange thing is that when I loosened the bolts according to this procedure, they lost all torque.

You got a 5 from me. But where is Winnipeg ? :-p :-p

Try it on the old gen Board. Lots of actual Loyale owners there. I had one 8 years ago and it was stuck in 4WD cause a friend had driven it on pavement with the 4WD engaged. Your prob is probably different. Good luck!

Happened to me. Did nothing special except alternating a few times between first and reverse and turning the steering wheel to the right and to the left a little and pushing and releasing the button constantly during that time. The transfer case is jammed and you have to «shake» it a little to free it. The best I can offer...

There seems to be a repair of some sort on your filler pipe. What did you do exactly ?

You also have to factor in the difference in volume between cold oil and hot oil. When it's at high cold, it's normal for the dipstick to register up to the higher notch when hot. That's why there's a hole and a notch higher up.

There's Mobil 1 synth ATF fluid in mine and it's been there at least three years without any problem. Maybe synth would cure your noise.

Maybe bearing and gear friction could also be taken into account ? Less weight, but also less friction.

...but just wait till it's out of the water

The reason I asked is that if the engine turned over but did not catch, what happened when it finally started cannot have been caused by hydrolock. If there was enough fuel in the cylinder to cause hydrolocking, it would have been impossilble for the engine to turn over.

Just curious. When you say you tried to start and it did'nt at first, do you mean it turned over and did'n catch or the engine refused to turn over?

Haynes: Temp in °F Resistance (ohms) 212 ----------176 194 ----------240 176 ----------332 158 ----------458 140 ----------668 112 ----------972 122 ----------1182 104 ----------1458 95 -----------1800 86 -----------2238 76 -----------2795 68 -----------3520 58 -----------4450 50 -----------5670 40 -----------7280 32 -----------9420

Maybe Scottbaru is not the only one going sideways at 120 mph in unplowed snow...

The one that's particularly hard to get is the bottom driver's side one. I dont think a flexible cable will get enough leverage down there. I used a «wobble» joint, but I dont remember the exact set up I used. Good luck

Since OEM is plastic aluminum (in my 96 Legy at least) and works quite well (12 years), I dont see why you should pay more to have an all alu rad. I dont think it would cool better. The important thing is that the core be alu. I did'nt even know they made an all alu rad. Or am I missing something.

It's all a question of sujective taste. I like «before» more than «after». Nice car nevertheless.

I would begin to suspect something else is at fault...

I had close to a thousand pounds of sheep manure (bagged and composted...) in my Legacy once. The rear end was riding a little low though. You sure the tailgate can take it?