Gloyale

It's not a "problem", just a noise. There really isn't a need to *fix* it. Try getting the portion of the intake tube with the ridges on it to do a bit more or a bit less of a bend than it currently has.

In theory. However those are relatively small surfaces to locate off of. ANd with all the trouble with Subaru HG's, you NEEED these heads to be perfectly flat. You'd have to bolt the head into a jig that holds the head above the surface of the Mill. And the pressure of the Mill head pretty strong, I could see it easily shifting the head within the jig if the head itself can't be supported from underneath. The way that ERA (Engine Rebuilders Association) and Subaru recommend is to remove the cases, and clamp the head directly on the mill, and do it that way. I would not want heads done any other way. The heads I get back from my machinist (Bob Forrest Machine, best in the Willamette valley) look like glass, and none have failed after 3+ years.

And that new car will cost you how much? Probably alot more than $1800 for something that you can depend on. And still, unless you are getting a brand new car under warranty, you will be faced with something else breaking, and having to spend more money. The "it's not worth it" logic is flawed. The cheapest car is almost always the one you already own.

You're machinist is full of it then. I frankly just don't believe that a machine shop would do that. Would you be willing to name this shop? Anyway, let's eximine the possibility. There is nowhere on the cam case that has a machined flat and true face to locate off of. So they would have to be using bolt holes on the sides of the head. This means the whole deal is dependent on those side holes being EXACTLY 90 degrees from the head face. Which leaves all sort of possibilitys for misalignment. This is the same reason that you can't surface Subaru blocks without splitting them to locate off of the Main Bearing faces. You have to be able to mount the block (or head) FIRMLY to a known true surface. I wouldn't want a head that was chucked into a jig, rather than properly disassembled for proper machining. It just isn't worth it. And I can't imagine that a Machinist would go to the trouble to make a jig to lose money. The only true and proper way to machine those heads is with the cam case removed. And any good Machinist would simply unbolt the case and charge for the small amount of labor rather than make a one off jig, contrary to recommended proceedure. It would not be in their interest to make the job harder for them (making the jig) and easier for you (no need to reseal). It would put the quality of the work, and their reputation at risk.....for no benefit for them.

Do not replace the rear main seal unless it is leaking substantially. The reason is that the seal is VERY tricky to press into place without issues. The design is really made to be installed when the case halves are bolted toghether during a rebuild. So unless it's really leaking, leave it alone, you will cause more harm than good.

The Machinist will need to remove the cam boxes in order to locate the head properly. Most likely they will charge you for this, espescially if you have them reassemble them. I would suggest letting the machinist take the cam cases off, because the torx and Allen head bolts they are held with are often stubborn and strip or will break cheap torx sockets. I recommend waiting until the heads are on the engine (engine out of car) before resealing the cases to the heads.

Carbed or F.I. If it's F.I. the relay is up ontop of the column, above the ECU. If it's Carbed, the "relay" is a box bolted above the Hood release handle. 6 wires with a 3 diamond "mitsubishi" design on it.

If the 96 is a Manual trans, it will have a 2.2 SOHC, if it's and Automatic, it will have the 2.5 DOHC The 98 will have a 2.5 DOHC engine

Hill holder cable. Hooks to the Clutch Release fork A/C idle up solenoid for Carbed models. Located on top of passenger side strut tower.

Uhhh..... no. there where not any GL-10s after 88 or 89, IIRC.

There are no kits that I know of. I ussually tear it apart, inspect and replace bearings that need it. New seals everywhere. Syncros you can just have lightly bead blasted and they will work again. 4th gear popping out means you definately need the Upper shaft rear support bearing.

87 models are bastard clusterfarks of oddball electrical connectors. Those headlights are DL lights, not coupe specific. Now what is Coupe specific is that Grill. Me WANT! Had one on my wagona dn it looked sweet, but it got broken. Now I got a lame Loyale grill.

Duh! Oh Yeah, I didn't even think of that.

Auto Belts, and Airbags are "Passive" restraint systems. Meaning the Driver doesn't have to do anything for it to function. "active" restraints would be like a regular seatbelt you "actively" have to put on. details:rolleyes: The law passed in 92, requiring passive restraints. That is the year that Loyales got the "automatic" seat belts standard (they where optional since 88). Legacies already had them, but a drivers side airbag was added in 92 models. The auto belts weren't eliminated until 95, when the dash was redesigned to accomodate both Drivers and Passenger side airbags, meaning that the "automatic" belts could be dropped. All the auto belts will someday stop working. That is why they suck. Good news is that manual belt setup from a 95-99 Legacy, Outback, Impreza will bolt in and replace a failed automatic unit.

Well, I am gonna start by agreeing that an EJ22 swap would be a better upgrade. But then you gotta buy an adapter plate and drill a flywheel, and solve the radiator issue. Since you already have bought this EA82T setup, you can look at it as good practice for swapping a Fuel Injected system into an older car. So here goes: You don't need the entire dash and all that. You don't even need most of the wiring in the loom. There in lie the biggest chore of the swap, stripping the loom. What you need is all the wiring that runs from the ECU to the Engine. Don't forget the stuff that runs to the Coil, the MAF, and the Pressure switch/wastgate solenoid, and possibly the Knock Unit if it had one (85, 86) You also will need the Downpipe/Catalytic for the Turbo car. Once you have the harness and all your parts removed, lay them all out and connect all the engine connections. Strip down and cut out all the extra stuff (alt connectors, AC, Headlights, wipers, etc....) Leave any wires that go to any of the engine stuff. Then the harness can be mated to the car "piggyback" style, like we do with EJ and SPFI swaps. This way will be easier than trying to remove the entire bulkhead harness and mating it to the GL body harness. Espescially given that your car is an 87 model. (lots of oddball connectors, wire colors, one year only then everything changed again) 2 Questions: What year is your donor GL-10 harness, ECU, and engine? Did you get the MAF, Coil, and if donor is an 86 or 85 model the Knock control unit from the passenger end of the dash? Oh yeah, you'll need the MPFI fuel pump as well.

Hey, Aaron, if you need an EA82 Flywheel I have a few. You can use the 225mm EA81 Flywheel, with an EA82 clutch set. You may want to have the step machined to EA82 specs, Bob Forrest Machine will do it for $45 buck. I've never actually done this though, and there is a slight difference in overall thickness(EA81 is thicker) So I'm unsure about things like Pilot bearing engagement and starter teeth. It's only a few MM and lots of people claim to have done it so it should work. Otherwise the EA82 flywheel is the option, you would just need to transfer timing marks. Also, do you want to work on that harness tommorow during the day? I will have a bit of time.

No way. I've seen Legacies and Outbacks with bad or just missing Knock sensors run for literally YEARS without any real driveability issues. (customers that are too cheap to fix unless it's something that makes the car not run) I can see timing being pulled affecting maximum full throttle power and mileage, but not in any real world noticeable way. I don't want to argue, but it certainly isn't the OP's problem. Not just out of the blue after changing rockers. I still am thinking since he must have at least unclipped the CAM sensor to remove the Valve covers, that the problem lies in that connector. If not that, then I would begin to suspect that there is some difference in the CAMs, and he may need to use the Cams that match the Roller rockers (if the rockers are different length, then the cam lobes would likley have different amount of lift) I personally would have done that just to keep the matched components.

Yeah, 6 in. There is another example of it done to a non-lifted car with a different bracket design in the USRM. Note* requires quite a bit of bashing to make room for the spring to clear the body. BFH required.

I think he put EA82 Rears on the back of his EA81. I did the same thing. My Torsions kept sagging more and more (reclocked twice) and additionally' date=' the rear mount holes for the torsion tube where little by little being crushed up into the unibody rail whenever I hit a large bump. So I fabbed an adapter bracket to mount the EA82 coilover to the EA81 body. De-clocked the torsion again so there is just a little spring from it, but most of the weight is taken by the coilovers. Additionally they limit the uptravel so I don't hyper-extend axles. [img']http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb29/Gloyale/P10100152.jpg[/img] And the Crushing.....I added the plate to spread the load. But it kept crushing more because under load (big hit, bump, drop), that bolt hole takes all the rotational resitance of the torsion tube. Now with the coilaver that force is transfered to the wheel wells via the shock mount. Highly recommend this mod. Again though, this is Rear EA82s on the Rear of an EA81. To get more spring in the front of and EA81, use EA82 4wd wagon springs, or RX springs....either is an upgrade.

Disconnect the battery for 1/2 hour before hand then you can remove. Although you might need to buy a special "safety" torx head bit to remove it.

Check the last post date before yours on this thread.

toasted front diff get another trans

My Bro and I make HighGuys Lift Kits. Do some browsing around and post in a few more threads so I can send you a PM.

Well to answer the first question, The EA82T pistons are a entirely different casting. Thick face. The EA82 NA pistons are very thin on the face, and I think machining them down would not be that good and Idea (I was looking into it for a while to build a 8.5:1 EA82) However, if you can paypal a few bucks for shipping, I have a set of EA82T pistons and rods sitting in a box. 100% Cleaned and ready to ship. Probably 20-30$ shipping would cover it. PM me if interested.