Gloyale

Check final drive ratios IIRC, the early 3ats had a 1:1.1 transfer ratio, so the front drive is 3.9, but the rear drive is 3.7 or vice versa...... I can't remember all the details But the good news is that you have a sticker on your rear diff that tells the ratio. check it, and get a 3at from a car with a matching rear diff ratio. Or, swap the rear diff to match the trans you get.

Gonna have to work out the switched power stuff on your own. But for the temp gauge, grounding it shouldn't have blown anything. But I would recommend running a wire seperate from the EJ harness. Put a spade connector on a wire, and run that from the gauge sensor to the temp wire in your original wiring. or alternately.....run the wire all the way to the dash and tap into the temp gauge there. Leave the EJ harness spade unhooked and tape it off. I removed all my cars original wiring except headlight and horns, so I had to run mine to the dash. the reason I suggest this, is that the EJ harness in stock configuration somehow uses the gauge sender as a back up to the ECU's temp sensor. I am pretty sure this is the reason some people have had toroubnle hooking up to the EA gauge with the 270 ohm resistor trick.......the stock harness somehow connects the two EJ sensors together in parallel. I plan on chopping apart an EJ engine harness soon to find and document the splice.

Well, there is definately not a Vss in this dash on the 81. I removed it down to the actual speedo unit (even tried to finangle an EA82 speedo in there) but there is definately not one. There is also no ECS light. Both of my 84's had Vss and ECS lights. Sounds like every year has a different connector arrangement. Hmm........we may just leave it with no Vss and see how it runs, we got it fired up last night Rick, I may have to take a trip up there to get some scans if we decide to put a newer cluster in it.

They are also manufactured at Subaru's "Zero Landfill Waste" plant in Indiana.

should directly bolt in. if not, just swap rails

I am hopeful to find an 82. I think this si the same style and layout to the gauges, so if 82 will have the Vss.......the rest should all be the same. I worry about the 83+ style.....as the whole gauge set-up is rearranged and so possibly wiring is as well. I don't want to do alot of rewiring hte dash. I don't have any wiring diagrahms for the 81 and limited daigrahms for the 83 and 84+

We need to know which type of MPFI you have, early or late. Is your MAF a flapper type or a Hotwire type? The wires you describe point to early style. Are there several other wires on the disty, running in a harness over to the knock sensor, and then through the firewall on the passenger side? the reason I ask is that if your disty ONLY has wires on it, then you have a Carb disty in there and you won't have any Knock control. Also, the presurized intake of the turbo will play games with your Vac advance under boost. But, If you have the early style MPFI, this disty should at least get it to start and run. If you have a Hotwire maf, you have the late style, and the disty you need should be an Optical pickup type with a 4 pin connector. The disty you have in there won't run this type of MPFI. BTW, fuel pump only kicks on when the ECU sees "rotation" (read: spark) so that is why it pumped breifly when you manual spark the coil.

Quick question for the EA81 gurus. Are the connectors the same from year to year? Background: I am doing an EJ swap into an 81 GL wagon. The cluster in it doesn't have a reed switch in the speedo head (no Vss). When I swapped my 84, I was able to simply plug into the Vss that is in the dash. Hopeful solution: I am thinking that swapping clusters out with one from a newer model w/ Vss in it. However I don't really want to get into repining all the connectors for the cluster What are the chances that the connectors stayed the same through the years? How new do I have to go before finding one with a Vss in it? 82? 83? I know 84's have it. On a side note, this old dash didn't have a check engine light either:confused: even though it is a Cali Feedback model with an ECU? We wired the EJ check engine light to the "fasten seatbelts" light.

turn signal stalk. about $90 bucks new from dealer. Good news is that 2000+ models you do not have to remove the steering wheel. the unit just plugs into the side of the column. remove the cover, and it's 4 screws and a few minutes to change out.

Well it totally depends on WHY it starved. If it was from pump failure....then yes.....the engine is in need of a full rebuild with new bearings. If it was because of a blockage to the gallery that supplies that cam......then it could be unclogged while the head is apart. (one of my favorite things about EJs is that all the oil galleries have removeable plugs at several places, so clearing them is pretty easy.)

Uh....no thanks. You have to remove the entire dashboard to swap harnesses. And you would need an entire 5spd harness from the same year and model with the same options. If you just swap the trans and the pedal box......you're done. I mean really how hard is it to solder a half dozen wires or so.

you got it backwards. Donut goes on the rear. And in this case, it's a 5spd so no FWD mode. IDK, the donuts that come with the 5spds should be a close rolling diameter. Not sure why anything would be wrong. I've run 5spds with a donut before.

Hmm.....I'm not quite sure of where or how you are measuirng the coil resistance. Coil resistance should be between .6 and .8 ohms (roughly) on the primary side (measured between opposite plug wire towers) Should be 10 to 16 K ohms for AT ............or 18 to 26 K ohms for MT......on the secondary side. (measured between the center wire of connector to each of the outer wires) But I doubt that is the problem. I am still thinking there is a wire not hooked up or something else simple.

Wouldn't the shaft of the CV axle be sticking out further than normal? Too much and it may run out of threads while still not "tight" It's worth looking at a bit more.....I guess.......weird one.

not in USA, Canada

96 outback with Manual trans has 2.2 And a 2.2 can be swapped into any outback Not arguing for either.....just stating differences.

I have kits built and ready to ship. PM me Or email a Loveyoursubaru@yahoo.com

:-\ pics:banana:

bent strut? or the Machine shop did something wrong with the bearing

Outbacks have a slightly higher roofline (Bulged above drivers head more headroom) and will ALWAYs have a roofrack. Brightons (and regular Legacies) have a "flat" roof, and even if they have a roofrack, it is not as big and is kinda weak and cheesy compared to the Outback.

Because the caliper isn't sliding. The piston pushes on the inboard pad, in turn the outboard pad is squeezed by the force of the caliper trying to push off the inboard. Now relaese the brake, and the piston backs off slighlty without hydraulic pressure behind it.....but the outboard pad is left dragging against the rotor....because the caliper cannot "slide" back out.

JUst make sure you don't space them up "off" of the locating dowels. .030 should be fine. OEM Subaru 2wd rear struts sould be physically longer by about 2 inches. But alot of aftermarket Strut makers seem to be splitting the difference, and making one replacement for all. What I did was this. Purchase a new set of rear struts (or scavenge an extra set of old ones) The new struts come with the spring perch not installed on the body yet. It is a collar that slides down and seats on ridges on the strut body. So first thing, use the perch from your old struts, and slide it UPSIDEDOWN. Then, install the new perch ontop of that "rightside" up. This yields a good bit of lift, and preloads the springs. Does reduce total uptravel a hair......but not anything to notice......and having something limiting uptravel is good on these rearends after a lift....since the bumpstops are rendered useless with the lift.

The bulb is useless. I'd just take it out entirely. If you really want wire up a switch just use spades to insert wires where the fuse goes. (just install an inline fuse on the wire up to the switch) Chances are, turning it on and off will throw a code, so the ABS light will be on every time you re-arm the ABS, until you shut off the car and restart.

Pull the fuse, and remove the bulb. Done

Just for the record: 85,86 and early 87 MPFI systems that used the 3 Plug ECU and the flapper MAF have no role in the ignition system. The injectors are gang fired by ignition pulse. The igniton control in those models is run by a seperate Knock Sensor computer. This setup can run a standard magnetic pickup Disty and Coil without any modification to the MPFI ECU. RUN.....but not timing controled....so use with turbos would need to be with care. Later MPFI distys are the same as CAS model as the SPFI use, so if you want to go megasquirt, those should be plentiful.