Gloyale

You do know that 84 used a different Carb than 83 and ealier. The 84 Carb is actually alomst identical to the 85 EA82 Carbs. the big differeence being a 2 stage Choke Vac pulloff. I think you could make the older carb work, but this may be part of the problem if you got a differenet Carb. Vaccum Leaks on a Carbed engine ussually cause it to idle poorly and low.

U ROCK:headbang:

I almost can't believe this is you're advice. First, how would you flood a FI car? There is no accelerator pump so you can't pump in too much gas. Opening the throttle does only that, opens the valve for air. The computer sprays the fuel. and it is not supposed to ever flood, and if it did it could produce the same MAF frying result. I did it once. When I was 18 and thought I knew everything about working on cars. In the SPFI system, Fuel is not sprayed "all over the place" it is sprayed directly down the intake and is a difused mist not a dump of liquid that can splash back up. Doing "quick checks" like this can cause alot more harm. You really advocate NOT doing proper diagnosis? I know Cab doesn't that's why he got a fuel pressure gauge. That is not diagnosing or fixing, that is guessing. Throwing parts at something is the worst way to try to fix a car cause in the end you may not have actually *solved* the problem even if it goes away. You have to identify it first. With all that said, please let me say I am not trying to insult anyone, I just highly disagree with this methodology. Cab you are on the right track. I am guessing a fuel pressure regulator. I wouldn't rule out the CTS yet either though.

The generic single wire Bosch ones are only about 20 bucks. They seem to work fine.

It should have a sticker on the back identifying the ratio. It may be all grimey but wipe it off and look. Unless it says LSD in big letters it is not a limited slip. I don't think all gen II Brats had LSD. If they did people round here would be snapping up brats left and right for diffs(espescially if it was 3.9) BTW I think brats will have either a 3.454 or a 3.7 Diff. I am not certain, I know way more about EA82s than EA81s

Did you adjust the throttle cable so there is slack? Also is the Choke functioning? if it is misadjusted or sticking it could be keeping you at a *high idle* like it does for warm up. It is normal for the engine to Idle at up to 2500 rpms for 10-15 min till fully warmed up.

I remember one time I got a cheap pair of front brake pads for my GL. They were missing the wear indicator/tensioner thing that is ussually riveted to the back of the pad.(the little flat strip or tab of metal looped over that starts to rub the rotor when the pad gets low). Well on Soobs it also holds the pads firmly in the brackets. Well these pads without it would catch on the rotor as it went round and knock back and forth in the brackets and make a sound I thought was my CVs for a long time. Take the wheels off and see if your pads have the tabs. If not, see if you can shift the pads in there brackets and make a knocking noise. Could this be what your noise is? I ended up fashioning some thin strips of metal, bending them over, drilling a hole, and fitting them onto the pins on the back of the pad. Had to use a punch to flare the the pin out to hold the tab. I could have just bought new, better pads, but I was young and broke then. I hadn't thought about that in years but it just occured to me that maybe?....

I wonder if the wire bundle going to the switch is crushed somehow in the tilt mechanism? I have had this happen before but not so bad as to produce a short. But the routing of the wires in the column is pretty tight and only needs to get a little screwy before it gets caught in there.

Okay, I was not familiar with you're multimeter. Mine shows a 1 when there is no continuity(infinite resistance). Either way, measuring the wires going to the ECU would stil yield some continuity to ground. Now if you unplug all the connectors at the ECU, and disconnect the sensors like TPS, MAF, CTS... then measure those wires for continuity, those wires should not have continuity to eachother or to ground(except obviosly the ground wires for those sensors, but all the others should be O.OL) I hope I'm being helpful, and not sending you on goose chases. It's so hard to pin down wireing issues over the net.

Are you tyalking about the tyools to pull it through the hub? You may find that it just slides through. If not, pull the rotor and hub off the knuckle so you can see the Bearings. Carefully pry out the seal, then use a couple pieces of angle iron and some washers to make a bridge across the opening, and use the castle ut to pull it through.

Zero ohms is full continuity. If you got no reading at all, or infinite resistance that would be no continuity. If you have zero Ohms resistance between the starter terminal and ground, there is the problem. Many off the pins of the ECU will measure continuity to ground, you are basically measureing the resistance of the internal circuits of the ECU. Seriously, swap that starter.

Okay, so the cheapest I can ship all the A/C stuff to germany for would be about $120 US. This is for 2 boxes. I've been looking on Ebay and reciever/dryers and pressure swithces are both available, and not too expensive. I am willing to ship it all, but is it worth it to ya Stickedy? let me know

Don't be too scared though, I've had 3 turbo EA82s and they are still pretty fun and reliable cars. Keep it cool and tuned up and you'll love it.

If you do this, and have a timing issue or for some other reason the car backfires, you will fry the Hotwire on you're MAF. That is a trick left over from the days of carbeurators, and should be used only on Carbed cars. There are better ways to diagnos

I haven't read that anywhere in the FSM or any other literature. I don't think it takes hours. Just run "clear memory mode". It may take a few hour of total drive time, but the learning process of the ECU is continual, no need to unplug it for hours. Joostvdw, where did you read this?

I will pay you if you can get me that coolant tube that goes under the intake. You may have to take the manifold off, which is work so I'd pay you plus pay for shipping. I was planning on brazing a little nipple onto one of the tubes I've got, but If I can get a real Spyder one it would be worth my while and your too.

CV axle. Poping during turns, relative to vehichle speed, is a dead giveaway.

Your resistor pack is fried. IF it was the relay none of the speeds would work. The resistor pack has 4 Blue w/stripes wires, and is located inside the Airduct just to one side of the blower motor. remove the 2 screws up into the duct and one of the blower motor bolts to pull it out. They locate it inside the duct to Keep it cool with blowing air. But unfortunately leaves and dirt build up on it, hold moisture, and corrode them to nothing.

In short no. Different engine, trans, and suspension members. I think the rear diffs may be the same though.

Problem is the exhaust pipe makes using wrenches or Visegrips difficult

On MPFI cars like your 86 gl-10 they are under the ECU. Sound like they are connected, they should not be normally. They are only for testing and reading codes. The 2 black connectors down there are the READ connectors, they should be unplugged for normal driving as well. Sputtery? check all the plugs and make sure the tube from Maf to Turbo, and all the Vac and PCV hoses are connected and in good condition.

I don't quite know? Perhaps repeat the test I did. Mesure for voltage at the wire going tho the *Transamplifignitormabob*.. LOL.. You know the thing we're talking bout on on the coil bracket. And what colors are they? B/w and W/y? What voltages do you get on those wires?

I think I've read in the FSM that afgter replacing either the MAF or the O2 sensor that the ECU will need possibly a few hours of driving to "relearn". I would *clear memory mode* just on principle. Then drive until you think you might have a problem, then see what you get with U-check and Read modes and see where you're at. As far as unplugging a Plug wire making no volts. Wet, unburnt fuel *quenching* the O2?

I was just watching the weather channel and thinkin about you CAB. I myself went through a similar thought process after moving from Oregon to Wisconsin. Hope to be going back out there soon. At least you're soob loves the snow.

I don't know of anyway to get 87 pinouts online. 87 seems always to be a PITA year as it is the oddball of all of the EA82 bunch. I hope some other folks are reading this thread. I've got all the diagrahms and at least an MPFI car to compare to. But I don't have the car your're workin on. And Someone else has got to know more about testing the Amplifier/Ignitor. Seems to me that you very well may have a short, possibly in that circuit? You certainly should not have 12v on the W/y wire in the *T* connector going to the Amplifier/Ignitor