Gloyale

That's pretty greedy.......Factory race motors of the day made less.....And WILL blow gaskets....and crack heads..... If your pistons were flat they were not turbo pistons.....turbo pistons have a deep dish.....but it's cast not machined.......they are actually way thicker on top even with the dish.

Great idea Douchebag!!!

Perhaps on an EA81 car were you can remove the hoses from the core near the valve.....inside the cab. EA82 cars the brass tubes run a few inches through the wall.....so unless you can pull the HVAC unit away from the wall there is no way to get the core out.

96 2.2 are NOT interference. They are Single port, hydraulic rocker w/roller. 97 2.2 had the solid rocker w/ roller cam and different pistons.....those are interfernece. remeber....some 97 models were made in 96 so late 96 date production is interference.

Pretty sure the EZ30 (H6 engine you have) will not fit in the engine bay of a Brat.....even a second Gen. the Dual cam heads are huge, and the engine itself is long..... It'd be a shoehorn fo sure and then like 2.7 said.....it's gonna be a waaaaayyy front heavy beaooch. Way to fast for how poor it will handle. Maybe if you only wanted to drive 1/4 mile at a time

No way............you'd never get the pipes out of the firewall. There is no way to pull the heater core without removeing the dash. Pulling the dash is not that hard. A few bolts, Lots of connectors, 2 cables, one vac line. Before pulling dash......remove both heater hoses and use a garden hose to flush out the core both directions.....they get clogged, restricted flow, causes the weird cavitation and accompanying sounds.

Ahhhhhh.....Doesn't it always come back to the stereo wiring? Glad you found it good work!

Punctuation and Complete sentences. Your post is hard to read. There is no "aftermarket" for these cars.

Okay.... Neither an RX or a Hatch has suspension ANYHTING like an EJ.....ecept the Macpherson front strut but even that mounting type is WAAY different. Search 5 lug swap first....that's the basics.... Using a full EJ suspension from WRX or other would be VERY difficult.....requiring basically a full rear end fabrication.

If they put rear shocks for a 4wd on it, that will drop the rear end. You need correct FWD rear shocks and perhaps new springs or just springs from a wagon.

There is one "fusible link" and also a few "Slow Blow Fuses" or SBF. It was unclear to me which of those he meant. The one fusible link is for charge....so it won't remove all power to fuse box.....SBF 2 is the one that runs the ECU.

which one is blowing?

Which FL is it? Can you identify based ont he diagrahm on the under hood fuse box cover? Could be the ALT? or......???

U-check (no connectors) can be checked w/engine off....but will get 11 and 13 often. Otherwise....the proceedure is to connect white or greens (read or D-check) then start car, run engine over 2000 rpms for 40 seconds......drive 1mph or more (a small forward/reverse is enough. Checks VSS and Nuetral switch operation)......the CEL will either flash continuously if everythings OK......or it will light solid and output codes on the ECU L.E.D light. Plug in both conenctors and repeat until the CEL flashes for clearing codes.

83 w/ 5spd will be a FWD.....also 1.6 means it's FWD in 83 too.

Hey Joe.... Code 34 is probably why the light is on sometimes. EGR solenoid fail....fix with resistor. Code 5 is a model designator.......normal....means no codes present during self check. Codes 11 and 13 are "ghost codes" output any time the key is turned on but the car not running. Or any time the engine is cranked but not quite started. ignore them if the car still runs.

110 mm

Oh man.......You aren't supposed to take the box apart like that. The core is suposed to slide out. the clips are impossible to find. Look for a whole new heater core box. I've got one I could ship you.

That's for a carbed engine. This is MPFI so depending on the year the spec is either 25(flapper MAF, VAC disty w/knock box) or 20 degrees(hotwire MAF, Optical disty)

NEVER replace a fuse with a higher rated fuse. This will cause the wiring to burn instead of poping the fuse. I don't think you need a wiring diagrahm as much as you need to look at all the places the dash bolts in and find where you have a wire pinched.

Yes all EA engine wiring stays intact. No point in removing it all. Besides it's bundled into the wiring harness with everything else. The only things to remove are the ECU and the EA engine/coil/MAF etc..... The thinned out EJ harness weighs about 5 lbs........So it doesn't really add any weight from a practical driving standpoint. NOTE* For swaps on Fuel Injected EA cars....it is often nessecary to add jumpers from the old EA engine bay connector (body side) to ground. The pins that have the Black/red, Black/Yellow, Black/blue wires that originally grounded to the EA intake.....these need ground to supply the VSS and the Nuetral switch with ground. Otherwise the EA wiring can be ignored.

Year and model would help but I'm guessing the relay for the left hand light.....it supplies power to the left light and the running lights........when out the headlight on that side will glow dim from backfeed through ground side of other bulb still on.

Are you sure the vent cable is hooked up correct and actually closing the door on the passenger side? Also....if you pull and cap the Vac line to the frech air inlet behind the airbox you will get Recirc heat....instead of trying to warm up cold outside air. (canada models have button/solenoid to do this)

You do know that the Hi/Lo function of the factory wiring is done through the ground side right? So the factory bulb gets 1 wire with power from the relay....then grounds one or the other circuit through the column switch. So......IDK how you have things run....but the Hi/Lo wires from the harness should trigger the GROUND side of either the Hi or Lo relay.

20 MPG from a 2.5 on winter blend gas is decent. Maybe a hair low but not "terrible" 14 mpg would be terrible.