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AnotherGL10guy

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bellingham, Washington
  • Interests
    wheelin, wrenchin, shootin, all that GUY shiz.
  • Occupation
    welder, fab, concrete, ASE/AST certified.
  • Referral
    I knew all along
  • Biography
    Im just a 32yo guy who was born and raised in the hills of the great northwest, wheelin and fishin all my days. Im a certified rump roast-ASE tech from BTC, and I LOVE my 87 GL10 Turbo Wagon lifted on toyos.
  • Vehicles
    87 GL10 turbo, 93 Legacy, 83 GL 2door.

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  1. I agree with Vegablade. You could even get a coil insert style deal, not the best setup but great for a couple size bigger tires. an inch or so suspension plus bigger better tires will make a WORLD of difference you would be surprised where those cars will go with good tires. and with the way things are tucked in under the car a skid would make for a fun Baja! Find some used tires, do some trading or whatever u can. good luck!
  2. looking good man I cant believe what you have done! Keep up the great killer work and keep us posted! I want to see this running SOON please. with video! 300+ hp please! and get 20k miles outta her!
  3. AK Ill try that. I think now its a HLA Lifter on Pass side head. I may have missed one of those oil galley veins that suply oil to the lifter/cam.. its not major noise just when cold.car runs OK now, has plenty of power and is quite "Quik" really LOL. soon (2 months MAX) EJ22 here we come. going to build a decent mild Hi-Comp dual port SOHC OBD2 ej22. hope for about 150 reliable HP, no more no less. more in torque
  4. any news? this is NICE! wanted to ask you, when you stopped off in Oregon, was the VW lover guys name Brigham by chance? bigger guy, curly hair? would be a trip if so!
  5. sweet Brat man, very very nice work so far! and never worry too much about the old Joints, i just whack'em off as hard as I can. Bearings can be a Biatch in these oldies tho! good luck!
  6. nice ride! dude, it aint hard to make other subie rads fit in.
  7. so do people read this once and never come back? feeling a bit left out LOL. kiding. OK on a serious note, does anyone have any initial or further thoughts after watching the vid and hearing that clacking sound? and on another note, if you saw my other PROBLEM thread, maybe you can help with my other problem as well.... When its cold the ECS light does not come on with the ignition key on and the car will not start due to the pump not coming on. installed a new fuel pump RELAY, tore the Brain (ECS) out and apart, all looks fine. when I put a heat gun to the ECS or the pump itself, the light will flicker on and car will eventually start. Its a very odd issue. So question is, if the Fuel Pump is bad, will that cause the ECS light to not come one with the rest of the dummy lights when I turn the ignition ON? When I plug the green check plug together its the same deal unless something is warmed up. Its very cold out last few days, car does fine unless the temp drops below 30 or so. thanks a bunch for any help guys and gals!
  8. holy crapola i never seen anything like that where someone writes a sentence this long with no periods is that normal if so how and i knew a guy once who tried it and ddint work out i also tried it and it did work out but from amile away it was fine. hehe
  9. yep he said it. if you know for sure its coming from BEHIND the covers then those are the options. if its below that it could be the oil pump or filter mount. if you have leaks there i would imagine the whole engine needs re-sealed and your rear main also likely has a leak. big or small you wont know untill tear down. the good part, these motors are super easy to pull, to seal maybe not so much but not bad..
  10. I thoughtn it would run like really bad if the belts slipped a notch?? it runs great. also I just put brand new timing belts, tensioners and rebuilt the heads complete. the thing doesnt leak or burn a drop of oil. ILL CHECK this tho Miles Fox thank you. EDIT**** Miles, timing is OK, all is good there. ANYTHING ELSE GUYS????
  11. yeah sorry about that bad audio, but you can hear it through all that racket best toward the end of the video. It really sounds like a "" Diesel Engine "" to me, mind you this dissipates after driving awhile. even with the issues and bad compression reading it runs great down the road! (could be my test meter) oh and Im sorry, I looked at the bottle and the oil I used in the car is 10w-40 Royal Purple. not sure why I thought it was 5-30, maybe thats whats in my Jeep...my bad. I really want to run about 11-12 psi boost, set timing to about 22 BTDC, run 92 octane and have a fun healthy motor till I swap the EJ in.
  12. very very imformative thread, this is KILLER!!! I was seriously thinking about building a bad rump roast EA82 turbo when I do my EJ swap. just take my time. GOAL:: To have 150-175 RELIABLE hp from my EA82T. Not greedy. Just run a modded TD04, TMIC, 12-14psi boost, and NOT blow head gaskets. I already re-sealed this motor and upped the boost by 2psi without issues so far (except the motor sucking already). FP Head Gaskets are holding up so far at the over torqued 65 lb ft. I have a question though. when I tore into this motor, I could swear I saw flat top pistons. I do not remember seeing any dish or valve reliefs at all. I could be wrong but if I am not is this normal? I saw in one of your pics the stock pistons had a dish machined in them pretty big. pretty sure mine were just flat........hmmm. cool thread anyways and thanks!
  13. I also want to say that I did perform a Compression Test on all 4 Cylinders and the result was not good. I do have a very old crappy tester and its a push in style and the valve has a slight leak so I cant say for sure till i get it into my shop at school, but I read #1- 110psi #2- 85psi #3- 125psi #4- 110psi this is at full Opp temp. Also did the oil test to test rings and it did not change. when I rebuilt this engine the heads were cracked both pretty good between the valves but when I performed a pressure test all was fine. I replaced every seal and gasket the kit cam with (LOTS!) and never did test Compression until yesterday. so who knows. the more I retard the timing the better the sound gets (until its warm of course) but it runs like crap. runs awesome when set at 20-25 BTDC but has a bad knock untill driven for awhile.
  14. SORRY for the bad quality, phone is all i had. you can really hear it towards the last 1/3 or so of the vid when I go back down close and hit the throttle a few times. THE CAR SOUNDS LIKE CRAP IN THE VID BECAUSE THE BELTS MAYBE, BUT IN PERSON ITS ACTUALLY VERY SOUND BESIDES THIS COLD ONLY ISSUE. SOUNDS LIKE A FAST WOODPECKER OR A DIESEL ENGINE, ITS VERY SLIGHT BUT YOU CAN HEAR IT. my timing is set to 15 BTDC, if i go more retarded on it it lessens the knock, if I set it at 15 or higher advanced it get more. engine has 92 octane fuel in it now. Vac Advance does work and is hooked up. WHAT IS IT? AND JUST FOR YOUR ENJOYMENT!!
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