Gloyale

If you want to disable the whole system the computer for it is on the drivers side floor, behind the drivers seat. Pull up the carpet edge and unplug the whole mess. You could convert to a set of Impreza fronts struts and EA82 rear coilovers for a few hundred dollars. My XT was de-airbagged along time ago, but the compressor, solenoids, vavles, and hardlines are still int he car and intact..........It would be nice to get a full set of airsturts again someday if they become avavilable.

Go with the legacy.

Pickle fork. Hammer it in til the joint pops out.

As far as I know the square Legacy relays are the same pinout as the old round EA ones.......although the Fan and A/C relays in an xt6 may not be the same so iDK.......Not much experience with the 6Cyl XTs. For the vent door....I would suggest checking for power on the R/Y wire from fuse 12 to the mode door motor, and the switch itsself. also Verify the Black wire has ground.

trans can stay in place. And being an EA81 motor.....It is actually VERY EASY to get the heads off in the car. (EA82 and EJs are harder) No need to mess with trans, axles, etc..... just unbolt the exhaust, the bellhousing bolts, and the engine mount nuts from the crossmember (oh and the pitch stopper on top of engine)

Likely they will on;y fix the spring...... it's breaking wouldn't affect the CVs, or other things unless the broken spring punctured the tire I bet they will not do anything but the spring.

" I'll probably end up doing timeserts as well. Esp with the 7/16 studs, rethreading over 11mm seems like a bad idea." 7/16ths fine (20) is SOOOOOO close to m11x1.25 that you can practically thread a 7/16ths right into the block..... And when I say practically, i mean literally.......it threads right in and over the 1-1/2" depth there is a half thread difference.....which just locks the stud in tight. I repaired a EJ22 with 7/16ths fine thread B7 threaded rod.........basically high grade all-thread. WAAAAY cheaper than head studs. Not the best for every build.....but a good workable, affordable option for the budget builder.

88 are nothing like 86 in terms of the Coil and distributor setup There is no Vacuum pump of any kind. Broken Alternator lead will not cause the engine to not run. Neither will a weak alternator.. The engine does not care if the Alternator is even in the car.....until the battery gets weak......but if the battery is strong enough to crank the enigne........it can produce spark. This is most likely an Igniter issue.......or perhaps a faulty CAS in the distributor.

Here's the fan power itself...... And here's the likely Hitachi A/C system you have. Heres the panasonic system too...(likely only on RS or other high end w/MPFI)

Here's better Factory diagrams Mode selector A/C system for 6 cyl.

Check the microswitch in the drivers footwell area.....on the side of the EVAP box. But most likely the A/C line "Main Fan switch" pressure switch is probably not closing........This switch closing is what powers the "fan relay", which then connects the Fan motor to ground. If the System is low on pressure, the compressor not pumping, or the switch defective it will not transfer "on" power to the relay.

Atsugi/Paraut pumps only. GMB sucks.

Which time is fan not comoing on? A/C-defrost? or Tempature based? Tempature fialure would be the thermoswitch in the radiator...or it's connector, or it's ground supply...etc...... A/C failure would most likely be an issue with the pressure switch/low pressure/ or maybe the pulser coil or thermostat for the A/C inside the EVAP unit (behind glovebox) Definately check all fuses and fusible links first.

doesn't mean that the waterpump, or an idler hasn't seized and thrown it out of time. 50,000 miles is nowhere near "brand new" Car dies out of nowhere at highway speed = most always belt snapped or skipped.

You don't need a weber. Stick with the hitachi if it's running good. drive slow and steady and have a nice trip.

Verify intact and correctly timed timing belt.

Are you talking about the blower for the A/C or for the Radiator fan? A/C uses a relay to turn on the fan (provides ground for fan not +) .....but the main power for the fan comes straight from a fuse and then the Thermoswitch should ground it when hot. Vents stuck is also an electrical issue..not Vacuum.......Does the switch pod for the vents seem intact? or are the buttons funky?

Timing belt? Did it lose the belt when rod broke? Could have bent valves if it did?

That rubber is just the dust seal for the timing belts. The leak is coming from behind that cover.......Likely the Front crank seal, and maybe the cam seals too. Time to pull the timing covers and do a reseal....put a new belt on too while your in there and good idea to do the water pump and all idlers too.

Can swap SOHC heads onto the 99 Block.

I just use a punch to hammer the old bearings out. To install, I take an old bearing...cut the outer race so the inside can come out......this leaves just the outer race with a small slice in it......I use that as a tool for driving the new bearings in. The slice allows the piece to pop out and not get stuck after the bearing bottoms out. Seals I use push them in by hand first then drift them the rest of the way with the tip of a 1/4 extension.

Blower fan or Radiator fan? Radiator fan should be direct power from fuse and ground through temp switch.

Look under the dash......behind the hood pull area. there should be a small button mounted to the very bottom metal rail of the dash......far left side. Hold that button while turning key to "ON"

No power to ecu. CEL and and LED should be on with Key on/Eng off Check fuses and fusible links. Check ground bolt on the intake manifold.

4 lug EA wheel bearings are WAAAY easier than 5 lug. I can do them in 1/2 hour with a big punch and a hammer. Installing the axle takes one more hammer. I only use the freezer for chilling beer.