Gloyale

tested fuel pressure?

Disconnect the IAC valve connector (round device on front of throttle body, round connector) On the side of the throttle body, behind the IAC....is a recessed flathead screw that is the idle adjustment. Adjust that till the RPMs are 550, then when you reconnect the IAC connector....the idle should raise to 700.

Those 2 male spades taped to the test plug are NOT for the horn. They are test jumpers. They are both grounds.....do me a favor.....go unhoook them.....see if the horn still works. Subaru does not tape toghether wires to connect them. They tape up test plugs and jumpers and optional fuse and relay holders (which is what the loop is) You probably just wiggled the wire for the horn while messing round under there.

Deosn't work on EA.....the Thermostat is on the upper hose and blocks coolant. Best way to fill an EA is to put it on a slope with the front end upward. Fill the radiator. Run the engine until warmed up to half with the cap on!!! Let cool, remove cap..........refill. There really is nothing else to it. It's the EJ's with the thermostat at the bottom enigne that tend to be harder to burp. Oh and FYI.......no need to put heater on full.......EA82 and all newer subarus are full flow to the heater core no matter what setting the blower is on.....even off.

2" lift (with angle correction) with 1-1/4" outback spacers on crossmember and transmount. Remove rear cross piece behind trans. A few thick washers under the carrier bearing is a good idea too to help straighten the driveline angle. Move inboard CV boot small end "up" the axle towards trans. Do all these things and the car will be great as a daily driver and not eat axles

Ohh.......c'mon now........you KNOW you would charge more money to fab that for someone else......Time is money. Calculate shop rate hours for the time involved and the project gets a bit more pricey. otherwise......If you will build me a car like that for $1200 bucks......sign me up!

Yeah the XT6 mount pieces are the "unicorn" magic pieces to make an EJ trans bolt in......but most people don't have access to the XT6 pieces..... So using Legacy middle piece and a simple flatbar for the rear works great........a few drilled holes and a grinder.

IIRC......EJ18, EJ20, and EJ22 all use the same stroke crank, 75mm. Just the barrels/bore size changes. An EJ22t would be great......Turbone did one in his RX. Pretty sure ej205 heads would increase compression slightly.....maybe to 8.7~9.0 or so......a bit high for alot of boost....

Removing the front Crankshaft pulley can help. The clearance is tight.....you gotta tilt the engine a bit and rock each stud into the bell, then the rest of the way down till the front of crank clears the radiator support then the rest of the way down.

Front trans crossmember needs modified to accept middle "craddle" mount piece from a Legacy 5spd. just a few holes and a little grind. You will need to fabricate a rear transmission crossmember piece....that will accept the other end of said craddle. again pretty easy with 3/8th flatbar. You will need to shorten front section of the driveline about 2~2-1/2". Shifter also will need to be cut to fit (easy after trans is mounted.

The battery cable goes straight to the starter. It also has a smaller pigtail that goes about 6 inches to the main fusebox. No real need for a diagram. Buy a new cable with a single pigtail in addition to the main cable. Just disconnect the old cable and inastall a new one from the Battery + to the Starter......and crimp the pigtail to the wire goin to the fuse box. The old POS cable is taped and wrapped up with the negative cable......so removing it is tricky.....I would just disconnect the ends and leave it.

yes. But you do not need to buy the whole pulleys...... you just need 2 bearings.......6203.........they press right into the original pulley. but if you buy the whole pulley w/ bearing in it it should bolt right on.

The thing on top of the Thermostat housing is the IAC. Idle Air Control......for high idle during cold starting and warmup......... It's a valve......not a sensor.....It opens when cold, and closes from heat....both an electrical heater and the heat from the coolant....that's why it's atop the Thermostat housing. the FICD is a single wire solenoid on the rear of the throttle body...pointing up.........Controls fast idle for A/C use....not part of the "warm up" high idle. CTS is on the rear of the coolant crossover......on a flat part of the intake/crossover in front of turbo.......might have to move Intake tube to see it.

If it's not a turbo car then no.......you have 23 spline axles. you will need to get some 25 spline axles to work with the EJ trans.

sorry no FSM for that year wiring.

JUst get a donor water pipe

Keep it like it is. SS interior is rare, and came in some colors on;y on that model.....like black. If you do take out the interior....please post the parts here as someone will want the doorcards, seats, and possibly the whole dash if it's Black

I do believe that is all normal. That loop is normal, Don't know for what but I've encountered it on harness strips. The 2 pins with no connector are for grounding diagnosis pins in the black connector for the ABS. They don't go to any other plug.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-NEW-Bosch-EV1-Fuel-Injector-Connectors-Repair-Harness-Pigtails-/230869628662?pt=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item35c0e6f6f6&vxp=mtr Like these.....but you only need one. You could probably clip one from a Wrecking yard from many other type of cars that use those type of injector clips.

Friday at 10 at the Copper Penny. I'm there.

Is this Friday or Saturday? I would like to caravan......but I would like to get there before 2pm on saturday......ya know?

Anh.....they are just there to divert Exhuast for the ASV pipes. EA82's and all EJ engines the pipes mount straight to the head.....no problems with this. They don't need to be there.

I want a 98 forester.........The DOHC 2.5 can be easily swapped to non-interference 2.2 or even EJ18 for fuel economy and durability. 99+ use Phase II more complicated to swap......really impossible without a CEL. 2000 is great I just really wouldn't want to rely on a 2.5.

I've got an Oscilloscope down here in Corvallis. Too bad you can't drive it down here eh? If you get a trailer I'd be happy to ook it over. Hell.....I've got an 96 harness that will run that engine standalone to figure if it's in the enigne or in the Harness/ecu.

If you swapped the whole harness.....the ECU's MT/AT identifier is already correct. Nuetral and Reverse switch can both be hooked up to the AT shifter wiring.(big square plug on passenger side of Auto trans) Reverse will be 2 wires........Green and Green/white IIRC.......one will have IG. switched 12v+ and the other goes to the reverse lights. Nuetral...There will be a Black/red that is ground......and a LightGreen/Black or Lightgreen/red wire that when grounded.......illuminates the "N" on the dash. These 2 go to the nuetral switch on the trans.