archemitis

heres some pics of mine http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1381

i stuck one on my 86 hatch, and with my 4 other square lights, that makes 5 up front stock =], more or less. you can install them on any ea81, after you saw out the stock hood latch support, and bolt in the third eye, the holes are already drilled for you!

the big difference for me is awd, vs a 4x4 dual range transmission. awd is cool if you have lotsa hp and wanna scoot around on the road. dual range tranny is better for off road, and good for on road when you dont have tons of hp, cuz you run it in 2wd. i think a 4x would get better mileage than an awd tranny.

just for the record... beasters piss me off

my gl tranny, i got it in the car with 94k miles on it, i have changed the fluid, and even tried bg syncoshift(which my 200k mile 4 speed loves) and it still grinds into second. but the xt6 im driving now seems pretty good, but it still doesnt like a fast shift, so much.

like where at? if your drive shaft isnt rubbing on anything, your not too rusty. we put new floorboards in that brat morganm was talkin about. only thing that realy killed it was haulin tools, and stuff, from texas to minnesota. post some pics of the rust if you can

well, double the hp, could be considered insane i suppose.

ya, thats not pinging or knocking its just the lifters pumping up. if it goes away, its nothing to worry about. just keep up on your oil changes

eh?

just noticed i was responding to this post on the xt6 board... =P

an external wastegate is something different than im talking about. you still use the internal wastegate, but you weld a seperator into your turbo... seperates the wastegate from the exhaust. then you weld seperate pipes, for the two seperate passages, on the same flange. the wastegate gets like a 1.5 inch pipe, and the other gets 2.5 inch. but external wastegates rule, know where i can get one cheap?

yar, put mpfi in there and forget the carb. where do peepl find those supercharges, i have been looking since 99 and havent found one =/ never wanted to hand out more than 100 bucks for one either tho

never, ever pay more than 500 for a subaru. ever. stick to that rule, and you will find good ones.

just dont jump on deals that arent so good, wait for the right(cheap)one. i get most subarus i have by word of mouth, or some guy walks up and starts sayin he has one with a blown motor, or whatever. dont act too excited. and dont bring your girlfriend with when you negociate. mine always acts way too happy and i end up paying more than i want =]

in my defence i did some tests, and the ohms of each pin respectively were the same between the two units i tested, and it ran with the toyota plugged in, but then again, it runs with the maf unplugged too =]

yar, thats why i say adjust the cable how itshould be, with the free play, then bend your pedal to sit where you want it =] as far as i know, all my subarus clutch pedals hit the floor when i shift.

that wastegate dump works better with a boost contorller, so the exhaust only gets super loud, when you hit full boost. it sounds mean as hell. id go with 2.5 if nothing else just so it wont scrape on the ground. 3 inch piping is freakin huge! and on the no back pressure thing. if you run a na subaru with no back pressure, you will be hating life, wespecially if you like low end torqe and offorading.

something tells me it might be the same then. my subaru has the same maf as my 3.0 4runner, just has one extra fuel pump switch inside. i dont think theres alot of difference in these denso parts.

seems like all the 5 speeds i have driven have thier issues, as they have all been highmileage units. they grind into second, or they have to be forced into gears... nothing horrible, just something ive noticed on everything from dr 5 speeds, to push buttons, to awd, with center diff lock. what im gettin at is i like my 4 speed. and if i throw alot more hp at it, without powershifting, or anything... is there any reason a 4 speed would be weaker than a xt6 transmission?

those are definately test connectors, and should remain unplugged, the green ones, and th black ones.

now im confused, you payed 150 bucks, and now your adjusting it yourself... go make them finish the job right!

then you sir, need a new clutch, or something is funny. you can bend your clutch bedal arm, and get it where you want it, but to adjust it, you dont even look at the clutch pedal, just the arm, and double nuts, at the cable. under the spare tire.

wheres wjm when you actualy need him for something usefull

ug... all you gotta do is adjust it so you have very little free play. a clutch cable thats too tight will be like you riding around with your foot on the clutch, and it could slip easier. a clutch cable that is too loose wont hurt anything, but might make it harder to get into first or reverse. the pedal height should be the last of your concerns.

i doubt your gettin any spark without that other disty wire hooked up