archemitis

i will admit i have to have something messed up, but i drove this motor to my house. and it ran great. the only thing i messed with was the disty, but if it was 180 out it just wouldnt run. everybody tell me the firing order real quick.

the running gear, is invensible. but the body can go to hell all over. my former brat rusted through the bed, at the strut towers, and the rear suspension mounts. it got so bad that i could only run in in 4x, because the binding lifted the body off the drive shaft enough, to not grind like crazy. if you are only worried about reliability though, they will go down the road (and off road) till the floor boards are completely gone. i even put new ones in mine.

if i read it right, sounds like you switch is messed up. i mean, if it sticks on, it cant be a hot wire shorting to ground, right? unless it short inside the switch, and gives power to everything inside the switch. pull out the continuity tester and start poking holes in wires, or maybe just change the switch

like i said, i am desperate here. i have pulled the plugs, and changed them a couple times now. i have even pulled the fuel line, and ran the engine till it dies, so i would not flood it, or foul the plugs. what exactly happens when you flood an engine? the plugs get wet, and hold carbon, and cant spark under compression right? any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

i took a well running ea82 spfi long block, and stuck a carb, and a carb disty, on there, and tried to start it. it runs, but only on one side. i get spark to all plugs, but only the passenger side runs. i am missing something, and am getting frustrated. it starts, but shoots the unburned gas out the exhaust. sometimes i love subarus, but alot of times i hat them and want to hit them with large hammers! oh yeah, its a brand new chrome accel coil.

i marked the flywheel of my ea81 to work on my ea82. and if you are familure with both motors, both have a hole cut in the engines bell housing to view the timing marks. the ea81 is off to the side on the passenger side. and the ea82 has a hole right on the top. probably 40-60 degrees apart. but when i marked my ea81 flywheel, it only needed to be marked 10 degrees later, than the ea81 marks. im wondering why? it seems like it would be way off, just like the timing holes, in the bell housing, but they are rightnext to eachother. is anyone following me here? im just wondering why the timing marks are so different, but so close.

guage welding cable, is what my car is grounded with.

a subaru is the easiest motor to pull, and install. its a great one to start on. nothing like a side winder or some massive v8.

hrm. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33578&item=2450494975 what do you think? 12 hp increase?

now thats some crackhead advice. i like all the teeth on my flywheel, just the way they are.

i put a high compression ea82 in my hatch, and i think the little starter cant take it. it drains the battery in a few cranks. it has done this to two different batteries. it gets down to about 11.5 volts and wont turn any more. so my question is, should i swap in another ea81 starter. or the starter from the ea82? prolly a dumb question, but does the ea82 starter bolt right on to the ea81 tranny? are they even differnt part numbers? just stumblin through the residual headaches of a converstion here.

for the air cleaner part. i just found out that the plastic elbow from an mpfi DOES fit on to the hitachis. ea81 and ea82. i had to cut down the rubber fitting that connects the carb to the elbow, because the hood wouldnt close. then i routed the hose to a cone k&n. i call it the ghetto snorkel. why would you need to keep the carb vent open? i thought that only dealt with the carbon canister, and not the functioning of the carb.

i would like to see this list, for the emissions stuff. i just installed one tonite, and i plugged every hole, except for the fuel in, and the vac advance. i would also like to see how to make it a mechanical secondary. after screwing with a weber for a year, im back on the stock hitachi wagon.

he said beefcake! hahahahaha. you gotta build a go cart or an airplane with that thing. watch out... you might get obsesed.

but seriously folks... 80s subarus are cheap as hell, and imprezas are generally not. cheap.

thats the gayest part about resealing a subaru, either an exhaust strips(sometimes all) or an intake bolt breaks. i would say drill it out the same size, then retap it, and hope it works. use a brand new bit of the size that is recommended, for the tap. i have an american bolt in one of my long ones, because i messed up the first time. just for everybody reading this, you dont want it to happen to you! heat up those bolts with a bernsomatic torch. they are cheap as hell, and make life alot easier. you heat up the bolt, and let it cool for a half minute, then it turns right out. usually good luck, drill the heck out of it.

those comp numbers look just fine. you either did one of these, or i have no idea. 1 are bot marks pointing in the same direction? when one cam mark is up the other should be pointing down. the chiltons makes it look like they are supposed to point the same direction. but they have to be opposite. 2 you are 180 out. turn the motor around till its pointing in the other direction at 8-20 degrees, then take the rotor out and stick it in at the 1 agian. basically turn the rotor around. those are my two mistakes, that have screwed me for days at a time.

i always figured it was an inside joke, that i wasnt let in on.

its usually the dumb a$$ parts guy that thinks he knows everything. you say 87 hatch, and they think its the same as an 87 mpfi turbo. they assume its the thing. i know the brakes were at one time listed wrong in the computer. the books seem to be right, but they never touch those things. napa can be pretty bad, unless you drill the parts guy, and make him cross reference stuff. im a parts guy too, so i can bitch

hey mike, i hear ya. the calibration, might be good though. i have one of those 9 dollar 15 psi guages from generic parts store, and i checked against a vac/pressure pump at work, ant mine is 1 lb off. 6is actually 5. the bowl is big enough to let a subaru run on prolly .5 lbs of pressure. my car will run for a couple minutes with the fuel line dis connected. and when you use one of these on a harley, they dont use a pump, just gravity feed to keep the bowl full.

i agree. with a carb thats too big. all you are doing is WASHING PARTS. the 32/36 is too big, or just right for these little low hp beasts. they use it on v6s for gods sake. 32/36 should be great for single ports.

man, that ea81 bumper with the reciever built in is a nice idea. easy to navigate page. i like.

if you had a pipe connectiong the two, you would have completed the recipe, and it would have been bad rump roast. also a stock y pipe back to 1 2incher, would work great too. that flex pipe will only last about 3 months, maybe 6.

spare tire area can be cut out. if rx s have that little extra 5 lb piece of metal. more room for an intercooler then. get rid of all skid plates. plastic fuel cell. that seat idea is right on. the loaded seats weigh a hell of alot compared to bone stock seats. motorcycle battery. shorter exhaust, with no cat or big rump roast muffler. go nuts, i cant wait to weigh my stripped hatch.

the only way to do it, when you are in the middle of nowhere. just go for it. just cuz your impact didnt do it, doesnt mean the starter wont do it. thats a big bolt, your starter would bind, before it broke it.(i would think). it is how i have done every subaru i have owned. but sometimes it is better to play it safe.