TheLoyale

Yeah I like to mix Anti-sezie with grease it keeps everything nice for a long time.

Yes because it is a DL trim level, the Highbeam filaments are in the headlamp (The GL trim level of this same era would have Quad headlights, separate set of lights for Highbeams) Since these are sealed beam the entire assembly needs to be replaced if something burns out (Their cheap and available at any parts store or Wal-mart) If the highbeams don't work when you you pull on the stalk, then either the lights are burned out or it is a wiring issue somewhere in the harness or the actual stalk could have failed (Kinda typical) Question, when you pull the stalk towards you to trigger the highbeams, do the Lowbeams stay on? If they do, I would suspect the stalk is the issue. If the lowbeams go out with the stalk pulled them I would think the lights need to be replaced or check the connector and wiring. (You can always test the lights out with a 12v battery charger, just touch the ground and the highbeam spade terminal on the rear of the lamp to see if it lights up)

After removing the knuckle and bearings/seals, I have wire wheeled it to clean off any rust and gave it a nice coat of Duplicolor truck bedliner. I will be doing the same with the control arm which TomRhere so graciously has awaiting shipment to me! Thanks Tom!

Pulled the knuckle and control arm out, Need to replace wheel bearings/Seals, and Ball Joint. In the process of removing the control arm, I snapped the head off the bolt which is fused into the bushing. I got the rubber bushing out, but the outer wall/shell of the bushing is stuck in the control arm and is not budging (No surprise with 30yrs of rust holding it in there) I think I tweaked the control arm while failing at removing the bushing, so I will need another one (With a decent bushing) Once I get that, I will de-rust the knuckle and control arm are give it a nice new coat of paint. I also need the wheel stud plate still, and a new axle as all the splines are damaged from the non torqued on axle nut.

PM Mick (VaporTrail) he should be able to do that, Just incase no one looks at the thread

Jamie, I heard it was raining pretty good down here yesterday, sorry you couldn't actually look at the Subies very well. I hope you can indeed make it back this way later on! Maybe by then the Safariwagon will be finished.

Thanks for the Wagon wheels, I was surprised to see 205/60/13s! Hope you enjoy your parts!

Or you could by these, take a 1.5 coils off with a cutoff wheel and bam! Instant WRX! http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MOO0/CC852/03360.oap?year=1992&make=Ford&model=Tempo&vi=1139655&ck=Search_coil+spring_1139655_3283&keyword=coil+spring

Once these springs sag it'll be good, you don't want to cut too much like Mr. AK said.

Maybe I should have cut my accord springs, doh!

I didn't want to source new factory springs, so this route seemed the next best thing, and turned out well!

Nope, whole suspension consists of: Front: 44"lift block kit 4wd struts Ford tempo springs Factory top hats Rear: 4" lift kit 2wd struts (more travel) Accord rear springs progressive rate (uncut) Factory tophats A while ago I was gonna run king springs from Aus, but never did.

The only thing I would ask for would be more travel. The rear wheels comes off the ground when pulling into some parking lots.

I don't see an issue with bedliner on the hubs. You do want the rubbery Hurculiner though. The stuff I use dries hard with gritty texture. It doesn't chip off or rust easily. I used Accord springs and 2WD struts on the rear with a full out 4" kit.

I like where this is going. I'm keen on seeing more and more! As for paint that lasts, try using a spray on truckbed liner. The rustolium brand stuff is good, any spray on truckbed liner will work well. I use it for everything chassis. -Tom

Oh yep. The rear would rub over large bumps, Not no more! Here are some photos from yesterday at the 8th Annual Don Miller Subaru Show! Some Imprezas and Foresters caught up to us and the we convoyed to the lot together. At the show! Foxs newly made Woodywagon, which won a trophy! Nicely done Black and White Hawkeye. One of the two Bajas that were there, this one is my Fiance's dream car! And yes, it is a Turbo. Woodywagon leaving. '94 Legacy. Foxs 3Door!

Subarocket, what rubbing are you speaking of? I indeed have zero rubbing, there is no way the suspension could even compress that far. The wheels are typical Peugeot 14" steelies. Tom, yes the rear shocks are maxed out with no weight in the back of the car. But since putting weight in back, the car drives outstanding, firm but not harsh. I have been driving it with the weight in the back so I am hoping this will make the rear springs settle down. I will remove all the stuff I have in the cargo area and see if they have sagged yet. JesZek, you were right! This spring setup is a good way to go. I am now very pleased I went this route!

These are just regular 15" trailer wheels, which can be bought online for about $50 per wheel, sometimes less if you buy a set of 4. So it would be cheaper for you to get them that way. I would need at least $100 for the wheels, and probably like $150 to ship them your way lol. Bennie, its not the matter of them sticking out. It just looks funny cause they don't sit under the car deep enough, so it looks like the car is on one of those tow dollies

Ugh, that is really lame. Do they have any curb rash or something on the outer edge indicating bumping a curb. Dunno how else you could warp and alloy wheel, unless someone had a locked up brake and kept driving, even still, doubt it would warp. Sorry you got burned on the wheels, they would have been pretty cool. As for these wheels, I am going to sell them. The backspacing is only 4" which makes the wheels stick out, which would look fine if they went deeper into the wheel well, but from behind, it just looks dumb. I'll need to find a wheel with 4.75 to 5" backspacing.

You could always take all the struts off the Trashwagon as those are new KYB GR-2 outback struts with new Forester springs.

The Forester springs are different (Stiffer/Taller) than the Outback springs. So yes, Forester springs will be the way to go on your factory Outback struts.

I think the fan may be one of those universals, probably like a 10". Once I get a new Radiator, Waterpump, thermostat, I will be buying one 12" thin fan to mount to the radiator and run it off the factory thermo switch (Since I have a new one of those too) I also need to somehow remake the lower rad support, looks like its ziptied to the radiator but is rotted extensively. As for the grill. Shawn W may be sending me one as well with the corner light and light bezel. We'll see what I get. If anything, bring it with you, if I can't give you an answer by then. Cheers!

We're are gonna be there by 830.

So after sitting about 150lbs of wheels, sand and tool box in the back, it rides pretty good. Otherwise the tires hope off the ground and gets scary. So now the suspension has some travel, we took it for a little drive yesterday and it didn't do too bad! I hope the springs sag and sag soon, cause I don't think the weight of the interior is gonna be enough. Also had to drop in another reman alt, my genuine reman developed a dead spot. Ready for the madison subaru show next sunday!

Will I be able to see this at Don Miller? Hope so!