TheLoyale

Anything smaller than 225/60/16 will fit using the stock Legacy struts. Outback Struts have a higher spring perch.

Does anyone have part numbers for poly moustache bushings? Possibly Whiteline bushings that will press in? I know someone posted some part numbers somewhere, but can't find the thread, even using Google.

Removed all the factory sound deadening today, even had a helping hand! Found more rust on the driver side! Never ends until you're done. Needs a bit more welding on the floor pan, but its taking shape again. Only the best girls work on Subies! Lowered the Suspension tube to gain access to another rust hole. Rust on the driver side.

Or, btw. I had those HF offroad lights on Trashwagon10. They worked pretty well! Did you also have these on ur Outback Sport?

Diff stubs don't have any unusual play in them? Seems like it would be a mount of bushing issue. Possible top mount bushing on the rear diff? Do these still have the two piece drive shaft like the older EJs did? Any play in the output tail shaft? Xbeerd had something similar with his '92 Loyale during shifting and Decel, Pop/clunk noise, but not much of a jolt. I did ride in an XT which had a bad rear diff hanger bushing which caused a good jolt during shifting or when a decent amount of torque was applied.

Its a Stainless grab bar for a yacht.

Oh and heres the little extra on the rear gate!

Managed to get the rocker on today! Now its just a matter of getting the lower end of the rocker tied into the floor pan (Gotta make a very long *90 bent piece of metal) Here is some progression shots. Getting the rocker situated in place. A little tug and pull and a BFH! Time for welding! And the final product, after grinding down the welds. Just need to apply some body filler in the crease and blend it all in. Also, working on adding a little something to the rear gate for kicks.

The Dual-Port Non-interference EJ22 in these are amazing. Pretty un-killable, 300,000 isn't uncommon for these engines with basic maintenance. Best of luck with it!

I wire wheeled it all, it came off pretty easy. Once I weld it all up, I will coat it well before I put the rocker on. On another note, I do really need to buy some type of media blaster, it would make things much easier and quicker!

What a shame. Hope it goes to someone good!

If anyone is looking for a good site dealing with any style of body clip, this is the place to go. http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Subaru_Grill_Bumper_Clips_s/304.htm

Didn't forget to tighten any of the bolts for the Trans Crossmember, Engine Mounts, Pitch stopper?

Here we go! Over the weekend, I cut the old rocker off and cut out the rust that has formed on the inner rocker wall, now we're in the phase of reconstructing the inner wall, adding some support braces and then the outer rocker can go on! I already cut the new rocker and trimmed it, it looks like it'll match up as close as I can get it and should be good!

At the bottom of this Write-up I made a list of wheels and their Backspacing. The Toyota 6-lugs use about 4.50 Backspacing which will keep the wheels tucked as much as the Peugeot wheels would. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/128105-offcial-6-lug-re-drill-thread/?do=findComment&comment=1087335

Dibs. PM'ed.

Finally an update. Here are the current things that have been done. This is what the hole in the passenger side strut tower started off as. During. This was the hardest spot to recreate due to all the layers. But I think this area is now stronger than it would have been from the factory. And this is after. I still need to recreate the inner fender wall/liner and another layer to tie the seat backing hinge to the chassis, but the fender wall will have to wait till I get the new wheel arches in so I have something accurate to go off of. These are the wheel arch stampings from MillSupply. I will need to trim off what I don't need, but they are nice quality! Subaru with 8-lug Dodge wheel on 245s. Ideas.

Yeah, I think Pooparu makes them, right? I put a new one on my car.

Finally, after long awaited weather, I made some ok progress on the Loyale today. Welded up some rust that I had cut out where the filler neck is and applied 1/8" Dynamat to the entire roof to deaden the sound. Also reglued some of the roof slats with RTV and reinstalled the headliner. I'm not gonna grind down these welds as I don't really car about them blending in. Once I painted everything and apply a hard undercoating these would be not noticeable. Next up is to tackle this major hole. Need to order some new interior press clips as I had to cut most of them to not damage the headliner. Tomorrow I will get started on the rest of the rust war. Happy Mothers Day!

Changing the door handles is fun, I had to on my Legacy buy wanted to use the original handle for the ease of one key. Those plastic clips that hold the release and lock rods are kinda tricky, and the nuts which hold the handle to the door. We'll just say, its a fun learning experience. By the way, since you have the other thread in the Members Rides section, might as well post some pics when you get a chance

I believe all doors from '93-00 are the same, minus power options and trim levels. The Door handle should be the same in all GC chassis Imprezas. -Tom

Forster struts are the same between the Outback. The springs are indeed stiffer and will jack the car up more, I had 225/60/16s on mine with Forester struts and springs. I had about 1/2" clearance between the top of the tire and the Spring perch. I had about 1/4" between the sidewall and the shock body. I want to say the Forester top hats are taller than the Outback ones. Here are a few photos of mine with this setup. Front Outback Vs. Forester Springs: I don't have a photo of the front Struts by them selves. Rear Outback Vs. Forester Springs: Outback Struts Vs. Legacy Struts 225/60/16 on Outback wheels. And this is how it sat. Front view. Hope this helps you somewhat. -Tom

Well, you could always swap EJ18 heads onto the EJ22 block for a higher compression ratio and more torque, which may help it chug along. I know there is a write up on here some where long with a write up on swapping EJ22 heads onto an EJ25 block. Jboymechanic did that swap which I was present for, did give the motor a lot more pull throughout the gears. Turbos are their own headache

You would be surprised what these cars can do without an LSD, the AWD system in these is pretty unbeatable. I had a '95 Outback, which was the first model year of the Outback trim level. The '95 Outback is a Legacy L with the two tone paint. Also sports an EJ22, which I am kinda surprised to see in your '96, which should have the EJ25D (Quad-Cam motor) Word of advice, Stay away from the Viscus LSDs and get a nice Clutch style. From everything I've read on the USMB over the years from the guys who do heavy off-roading, the LSD isn't the most practical on the trails, if you don't want it as a DD anymore, you're better off Welding the rear diff. As for tires, going with the BFGoodrich All-Terrains would be a decent idea, both street and trail ready and will last a while, unline my Maxxis Bighorns. Also, the grab bar on the rear gate is worth a few $$ on here.. -Tom

I think Tallon's photo shows pretty much all I needed to see (any more!) John, you are more than welcome to post some photos if you have them, incase this thread may help someone else. -Tom