TheLoyale

These are the MOOG CC248 Springs. Used for the rear springs on the 1986-89 Accords, These are Variable Rate. I'm gonna get these for the rear of the Loyale to swap in when spring time comes. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CC248-Moog-Coil-Springs-Variable-Rate-/161155547754?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item25859e826a&vxp=mtr

Liking the rear disc swap! Its a nice upgrade, since its a PITA to find correct rear shoes with a hole in the shoes bracket for the star wheel adjuster. I could never find shoes when I worked for O'reilly, I contacted so many manufactures only to find the same flaw.

Even if it appears rust free, make sure you check for soft spots where the rocker meets the floor pan, and also in the rear wheel wells where the top of the coil-over bolts up. salt likes to sit in there and rust these out quick. As for tires, the largest you're going to find for a 13" rim (If you can find them) will be 185/70R13s with an overall diameter of about 24.3" 13" tire selection is becoming obsolete. You could step up to a 14" wheel from a Peugeot and get a tire thats about 25.6" in there without a lift kit. Anything closer to 27" and you will need to do some trimming to fit the tires in there without hitting going over bumps. If you don't want to go with Peugeot wheels, try looking at this http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/128105-offcial-6-lug-re-drill-thread/?do=findComment&comment=1087335

I've always liked that color, Misty Dawn Metallic #059. Looks really clean too. Nice find

Is this for a 70s GL/Brat? I think you have the round multi-bolt level sensor that goes into the rear wall of the tank, right? If so, I haven't found any aftermarket ones, I know Airtex doesn't offer one which pretty much means no supplier makes them for the car. Best bet, find someone on here that has one. I have a spare EA81 (83 GL) level sensor in my garage if its the same. -Tom

So I'm thinking next year after I take the rig outta the garage, I'm gonna have to tear down the rear coilovers and change springs. Its far to soft in the rear, Struts compress fully going over railroad tracks. Should I just see about getting springs from the dealer, if their not discontinued, or what other options are there besides the Accord spring swap which I've heard are questionable. Side note: I was shocked when I compressed the new Monroe struts vs the factory ones, the factory ones seemed to have more force still.

I think you are right on setting it to 0* BTDC. That is what I did on the EA81 when the disty quit. Also, check the EGR or swap another on thats good. That seemed to be a cause of dogginess on the EA81. You could stick a Vac gauge on one of the Main ports on the intake and see what your maximum vacuum is (Obviously you want as much vacuum as possible)

Thats looking pretty good! The Discoverers are a much needed improvement over the factory Continentals? CVT?

Mark, nice video! Yeah it looks like an awesome trail. I've seen some Crown Vic climb up some rock out there, kinda funny lol.

Thanks, yeah the 14th we will have been together for 1yr

My Fiance' and I went for a little fall sight seeing trip the other weekend. Getting the full experience of the Autumn colors.

4yr old Moog Ball joint has failed me. Lots of play, gonna change that out and then put the car away for winter.

Glad this car turned out so well for you. Happy travels.

Thanks Bill that's what I was thinking. I may even go as far as to shave down the strut block.

So after a few months with the new 4" kit and new Struts, I have decided that new springs are needed, for some reason the rear end bottoms out while going over Track crossings. The original shocks had more dampening and force it seems. As for the front struts, The passenger side tophat/lift block gets snagged in the strut tower for whatever reason causing the entire spring to twist and snap back (Causing a clunk) Why it gets stuck, unknown at this time. There is also a creaking and a knock while articulating and/or while the suspension is shifting. Issues I need to figure out.

Rockerbox is awesome! Very diverse community and open-mindedness, any type/make of bike goes. I will probably be there. As Fox has said, this is a good site. No flame wars and what nots. Hell, there are a lot of discussion threads in the Off-Topic where members freely talk about whatever is ailing ya, From Bi-Polar/Manic to Financial issues this forum has heard it lol. When you do get a Subaru, don't be shy with pictures, we ALL like pictures! -Tom

This thread just went down hill real quick. Cool ur heels dude.

Indeed, welcome to the USMB! glad to see another WI member, I'm out in Waukesha. I agree with Fox, a mid 90s Subaru is the way to go if you aren't looking for a brand new vehicle. Like said above, the '95 Legacy body is pretty roomy and comfortable with decent acceleration and tugging power, not to mention you'll likely see 24mpg if not more (Depending Auto or Manual) z I had a '95 Legacy for a while, did alot of long distance in it, and was happy with the cruising ability on the freeway.

Body is in nice shape.

Trashwagon will be making a return real soon! I built a car created by MilesFox, only to sell it to him and then to get it back.

Won trophies at Don Miller and kicked it on the east side

Fox, you were 100% right. It was indeed a loose relay above the steering column. Also the connector for the igniter was kinda gunked up, so that has been cleaned and addressed. No more issues! Drove the car to work for 2 days now It will be at Don Miller this year! Thank you for the advice.

Fuses were the first thing I checked, then I checked the Coil, I get a volt reading off it and I also get pulsing while cranking if I use a light tester. Everything looks and seems fine, I just do not have any spark at all (I pulled #1 plug and cranked it) I ECU was flashing code 11 and 13 before, but now it just flashes 7 short times and starts over again. That is not a code. Guess I'm going to check the disty pigtail for ohms to make sure there is not a broke wire somewhere in the harness. As for the Steering column, nope, I did not touch it at all, but I will double check things there too.

So it was not the pickup/Crank Sensor. I'm at a loss. There are only two grounds on the motor, right? One from the trans body and the other is attaches to the lower water pipe (Goes into Waterpump) Before I dropped the motor, it started and ran, now it just cranks.