ahole

I didn't mean to anger you. Although I'm only 31, I am no noob to car and motorcycle wrenching. My bike is 38 years old and I also work on that. I've also owned 4 cars that were older than me and I worked on those. To me, exhaust is pretty easy and since I thought you were afraid to do it, I was trying to prod you into doing it yourself. I think people should know how to do mechanical things - something that is disappearing in our society.

Have you seen my vehicle list?

He said he's getting a new MC. I think it will solve his problem. Any time the brakes sink to the floor, I get a new MC-problem soved.

why wouldn't you? lifted = sweet.

Sometimes I look at the places I've known for a long time to see if there is anything I recognize. I need a life.

Don't be a wuss. You are obviously a novice in the mechanical department but this is definately something that you CAN do. I think you should try it yourself. If all else fails, take it to the guy. You really can't do any damage and even if you fail, it will be cheap and fixable. Have faith in yourself and you'll like the feeling of having done it yourself.

I agree with spiffy. Spfi is sweet. carbs are inconsistant with elevation and weather and seasons. Plus you get a little more power. I used to like carbs too... until i owned a(n) FI car.

You have your own haystack? Oh man, I'm jealous!

That's almost three. I've done Mpls to Sedona in 1 day, 1600 miles.

A 27" tire is about 4" bigger than stock. You can get away with 2" (lift) though.

I have my antenna mounted in the same place (RT fender just in front of the door). It works splendedly! I bought a Firestick 2 (4 ft model, actually closer to 5ft w/ ss spring) and used the bracket that came with it. I used construction adhesive to glue a piece of wood on the back side of the fender and then used some wood screws and went right through the fender into the wood to secure the bracket. Been holdin solid for about 8 months now, even with some wheelin through trees thrown in the mix. Reception is very good too.

the bigger wheels and tires (tires mainly) setup has a substantialy larger contact patch than the smaller ones. This will contribute to quicker lockup. Also if the 16's are a high performance tire compared to the 13's, they won't lock up as easily. As for the brake fade, maybe your pads aren't of a high quality.

WOW! That's sweet. Could you give me directions to that place? From Rifle that is.

Yes it was. I didn't see you though, unless you were in another vehicle. I don't think I would've not noticed that hatch.

I know I've been a bad boy and it will never happen again;) .Grossgary, let it be known, from this day foreward, that you have been PM'd.

Whoaa! This thread is back from the dead!

Nobody has one?

Now there's an idea!

Thanks guys!

IIRC, the ECU goes into limp mode without the O2 sensor. That means it will run rich- not something you want. I can't imagine why you'd want to move it though. What's the reasoning behind that?

If it makes you feel any better, I have much more oil on the bottom of my car than you do.:-\

Yes, the tail light must be removed as a unit, the lense does not come off. After you remove all necessary screws, there is some kind of very sticky tar-like substance that holds it on. It would probably stay on forever without the screws. It is quite difficult, more difficult than you would expect, to break the bond of the 1/2 tar 1/2 superglue 1/2 construction adhesive black stuff. Use a flat bar or wide gasket scraper to pry the unit off and you should be good to go.

On the Sirius, black should be ground, red should be to power that is turned off by key (usually the red one on your stereo), the yellow should be permanent power (gets power all the time for memory). Ground can be hooked up anywhere that leads back to the battery, red should be hooked up to an ignition slot in the fuse box or the power antenna output from the stereo (preferably), The yellow should be spliced into the permanent power of the stereo or to the battery or to a permanent power slot in the fuse box. Check your owners manual just to be sure, but electronic wire colors are pretty standard.

This I know.

I want to rust proof Uggo (my wagon). I was planning on using POR15 and go right over my paint, after scuffing of course. But Bucky92 mentioned, on another thread, something called Rust Bullet which is similar to POR15. That got me to wondering how many other products there are out there that do the same thing. So here's what I am looking for: either sprayable or self leveling, can be applied over paint, preferably not black (hot), very tough and very sticky, impervious to rust, low prep and maintainence time, cost is of little concern. Does anyone know a product that matches this description?