davebugs

Rereading this thread I too used to use Ultra Brite for this before kits were available. I have used a few different kits. And am aware that I don't need a kit. And that some folks including mothers and others make "compounds" "specifically" for this if you don't wanns use a compound you already have and/or very fine wet/dry paper. I have settled on a kit from "Crystalview" I believe. The plastic bag it comes in looks silver/mirrorist and is like 20 bucks. I believe it also says "myheadlight.com" 2 grits, then a compound, then sealer. Cleaning them up isn't the trick. Keeping them clear is! FWIW this is all I use now.

Just take both ends of the timing belt covers off (3 10mm bolts each IIR). See if they are both lined up. Because it's likely they are not. It's sounding like the crank and drivers cam (which happen to be where the sensors are) are o.k., and the pass side is off. An observation is that the R side valves usually bend first. I'm disassembling engines now. If you need anything PM me. I just scrapped some really nice 97 heads but will have more soon. I will be leaving for the weekend tomorrow noonish though I hope.

First guess is timing belt jumped. If one head is working and the other is not. If it were electrical opposing cylinders would be missing.

This is a common problem and why I have a few used "sets"(both sides) of these on the shelf. Often it seems that only one side will give areading and they must kind of get added together to show on the gauge. Maybe someone can tell us how they work and how to test. No sense in me keeping any bad ones. But the real reason for my post is that if you mess with these I've always had to replace the rubber gasket. So you may want to order those.

I LOVE it when these CL aholes start a bidding war. I just had this happen with a 2008 VW Wolfsburg. I told him I didn't do bidding wars. That I thought enough of myself to sell anything I listed at whatever price I listed it. 3 weeks later I get a text. "All the other buyers fell through, are you still interested". I said yea - what price - knowing it would have to be significantly LESS since I made 2 trips to look at the car (the first trip it was locked behind a fence). He said the same price, he just got tired of the CL folks. I said "I think I'll pass". When I was doing a lot of Subaru's I used to get it all the time. I used to run an add looking for broken Subaru's. Folks would call, I'd go give them a price. Often I'd see it on CL or advertised somewhere else for a week or so. Then they'd call and ask if my offer was still good. And you know, no matter how badly I wanted the car I would NEVER buy it!! I guess intergity is in short supply. If you've priced it correctly sell it to the first person that shows up with the cash! I HOPE there is Karma!!

Sometimes I get confused. There is "Goof-off" and "Goo-Gone" both can work well. Just beware that there are 2 products with somewhat similar names to do somewhat similar things.

I pay 200-1k depending on body, mileage, and tires for dead Outbacks of that vintage. On the tires I'm not only looking for tread but to make sure they are all the same so torque bind possibilities are less.

Welcome to the USMB. I can't help you with chasing down vin# info. But I, as several folks here, have done several of these swaps. What engine do you think was installed? Single or dual port exhaust ports (could you use your old Y pipe or did you need a new one)? Does new engine have EGR? Is your EVAP/Charcoal canister up front on the pass side by the radiator?

Can't believe I forgot the oil seperator/baffle plate! GOTTA reseal it!! Or some folks here upgrade to the metal one - which also requires new screws.

Should both be dual port heads. Both have EGR? You should be good to go. I reseal them. The 2 O rings (back sode of pass head and behind cam sensor drivers front), Crank, cam seals. Idler kit and timing belt and spark plugs while it's out. VC gaskets are up to you.

I hadn't posted in this thread because it seemed the OP was in denial. Glad to see I'm not the only one. I think you get to redo the HG job (properly this time) and hope the rod bearings won't die shortly. Or 2.2 it.

SEARCH Someoone did a how-to relatively recently. Basically it's under the #4 intake on top of the block. Keeping the angle of the wire and the torque spec are important. It's easy to see actually when you know where it is. Kinda hard to get at to get the bolt started again on the new one. I use a wobble expension and a magnet is handy.

You have swapped plug wires (even to bad ones). I'd hit the local pick a part and grab a coil. Probably 20 bucks and if you've checked or changed plugs also this is probably your problem.

Definately. I use OEM, some here have had luck with NGK they say. But in a 2.5 I stick with OEM. 2.2's aren't picky but 2.5's certainly are.

I'm assuming that if valves were bent it would show up with the compression check. Also opposing cylinder misfire is almost always electrical. Member Cougar here can probably tell you how to check coil pask with multimeter. What BRAND plug wires. It's very important. It's nice that you got new ones but it they were store brand you haven't proved anything.

I'm sure there is - but that's beyond my expertise. I have several here and takes a few minutes to swap so that's what I do. Have you tried moving the wires yet? Wires and/or plugs are probably the most likely cause.

Then a plug(nothing fancy!), a wire, or the coil. Look for an electircal problem on the front 2 cylinders. I usually swithc plug wires fron tot back as a start to see if code stays with the wires or not. Then on to plugs, then onto coil. I have used Diamond coils I sell on Ebay - PM me if you need one. I may also have decent OEM plug wires. 2.5's MUCH PREFER OEN plug wires. NGK spark plugs.

How did you verify the belt? Valves on the R side could easily be bent. Compression test?

Does this have the green wires under the dash that makes the CEL flash and will "reset" rediness much quicker? I believe it should.

Just remember. On the alt belt to loosen the jamb nut on the tensioner pulley before starting to loosen the long adjustment bolt. That little cast aluminum piece is ratehr expensive dealer item and a trip to dealer. That long bolt is a bit pricey for what it is also. I sell these tensioners used because so many folks screw them up. Sometimes you can remove the timing belt covers and then the 2 bolts that hold the tensioner easier thean reaching that jamb nut. Often when disassebling the engine I do it this way.

Impressive that it runs. Only ever heard 2 that bad. It'll be good for other newbies that come here and search. But it sucks for you. When I get one like this I put a 2.2 in it. Most JY 2.5's are gonna have hG issues which often lead to the rod bearing issue.

DOT and hash marks. NEVER ARROWS!!!!

Most acceleration issues I've experienced were a knock sensor. Look for cracks in it.

Most like 92-99 2.2 and 2.5 injectors are the same, including the rails I believe. Always easier to swap fuel rail. I have some headed for Ebay if you're interested. Don't forget the fuel pressure regulator is on one of those rails.

My exact thoughts yesterday when I saw this. Thermostat, wasn't burped properly, rad blockage, or went cheap on HG's or resurfacing.