Mugs

Why don't you use a vise I have use one in the past and just went super micro slow with it, and allowed about a second delay between each micro turn, this seem to work ok and never had a problem. Is this a big no, no for subys, or will going super slow still be ok?

OK now that I have proclaimed myself as the designated suby tech at the shop I work in, I have been getting all the subys to work on Yah:banana: But here in lies a problem, 2 out of the 3 subys I did timing belts on are on a come back for leaks. Upon opening the timing covers back up there it is... a cam leak from a brand new seal . Problem, I mared the cam pulling the seal. The second one is coming back tommarrow, so I am sure I will be doing the same thing again. What I did was put a speedy sleeve over the damaged cam and replaced the seal and it solved the problem. When the Snap On truck came today I asked him if he had anything special besides the the traditional seal puller and pick I have been using. He sold me a set of cool little spatula hooky thingys that some of the tech have been using at other shops...Hope they work...If they do I will report back and give part numbers...They are desigend to not mar finishes. So this is my question to all the suby techs out there and others that are in the know. For me it is just standard to replace the seal on a t-belt job, along with all the other usual stuff, and yes I use suby parts. But in all 3 cases the seals have not been leaking when they came in, I just replaced them because you know murphy's law will have them leaking in 6 months and now were having to deal with warrenty work... So what do you all out there in suby land do...Leave the seals if they are not leaking, and then pray...or replace the seals, but use some special puller to get them out...It seems that no matter how careful I am I still mess one up. PLEAS HELP, ALL YE GREAT SUBY GURUS :-\ What is iti that I can do to avoid this problem and not piss the bos off any more, and continue to build up my suby niche. Thanks in advance for all the advise. Some after thoughts... I use seal glide, I ensure proper instalation of the seal...I.E. it is not crooked etc, I clean all surfaces before instalation, I use a proper seal installer....What am I doing wrong?

I did not take the time to read everrones post so if this is a repeat, then ignore. I have a customer who was repeatidly coming into the shop for this same problem, but scoping and probing gave no info. His car never ran bad, just would always throw the code. Upon further investigation, I.I. him coming in once a week, to get his light cleared, I decided (since we were slower then normal) to do a little more than usual investigative work. What I found was the his plug seals were leaking into the well holes and the oil was at time grounding out the plug and or just no letting enough ionizing to go on and this would set the code. I replaced the valve cover gaskets, plug grommets and bolt gromets, the oil soaked plug wires and sent him on his way. He has not been back for that particular issue for some time, I am led to believ this solved the problem. Hope this helps.

As a guy who makes a living working on cars, I will say this: Ford Owner Really Dumb...Frik Our Ride Died My tools don't touch fords, or at least they try not to..I hate working on those things, all though they seem to break down enough to make a person a lot of money...If they wanted the stress of working on them. Now about the WRX, Subys do have their issues, but if she is responsible and maintains it well and gets her major services done but a knowledgable suby tech or a good suby shop and has the proper repairs done it should last here a long time. Subys are like Volkswagens (I work on those too) they require special knowledge and in some applications special tools to work on. But they are straight forward and easy once one gets they hang of it. Which is why I created a suby niche in the shop I work at...next: Either grad school or open my own suby doors. Is it an STI or just WRX? Can I be your daughters friend

Sorry guys didn't realize this was allready here..I couldn't delete it, but if the powers that be can..do so. Boring flick, but man o man it would be a fun ride to have. Someone just needs to show him how to drive it like its stolen.

DUDE first of all we have met, remember Sweitzer Moutnain on the "day for cancer" I was the green 96 leg getting sidways on the turns behind you. You were sticking like silly putty to a newspaper. You parked right I parked left and we chatted subies for a bit before hitting the slopes. But the other instance on both accounts was neither of us (together anyways). ON a side note isn't ineteresting that the majority of suby owners on this forum are from the PNW. IMO subies are iconic for the region and are the "new" vw of our day. And of course with that follows a certain idealogy, culture, etc, etc. Just my thoughts

Was this up at Look Out Pass. Was the Loyale silver with a cracked windshield. This sounds very dejavouish to me. If it was the loyale was mine.

Hey guys, went out Bping this weekend. And as I was coming back to the trailhead the sun was setting and my suby was being siluetted by it. I thought it was the ultimat suby statement (for now any ways) and wanted to share my pics. Others feel free to share theirs. ....or maybe I just was stinkin glad to see my car after battling 30 mph winds all night and day

I bought mine with a "blown motor" that had 120k on it. I replaced it with a motor (2.2) that only had 96k on it and about 170-180 compression in the cyls. At that time I replaced the t-belt & h2o pump along with the rear main. And of course the misc stullf like plugs, wires, fuel filter, belts etc. so as far as engine it should do ok. How far off will the speedo be with the bigger tires like the 70 series? I agree a big wheel well gap looks ugly. Oh yea my car is a 4 spd auto. I like sticks but I do to much city driving to always want to be shifting. Guess I am getting old. I may make my next car a stick (if it comes with it) but I am not realy partial to either. Well ok, I like auto's better. Unless its a racer then stick all the way. but for a daily I just like to get in and go.

I guess I didn't make myself very clear on the the tire issue. What I ment by bigger tires is 15/16in rims with apropriate size tires on them. I.E. My tires are now something like 195/75/14 so if I was to put 16's on I would then put on 205/55/16 etc, etc. That way it does not throw off the speedo and keeps the over all wheel diameter the same. Pus with a lower side wall I have less tire flex which equates to better cornering.

Thank you all for your great advice. Because of the numerous responses I can't answer every question individually, but will just hit some of the highlights. First I would be putting OB strut assemblies and struts (from the bone yard) on the Leg, in theory this should raise it about 4.5in or so from what I have read within this forum in the mods section. Next would come 15 or 16 in sooby rims with light truck tires or some meaty all seasons (in addition I plan on getting some steal stockers of the same size and putting snow tires on them to swap them out in the winter for all of my winter driving escapades.) I go backpacking year yound so the clerance is needed year round. Because if it isn't the mountains its the snow so either way I need clearance. Yes I have or at least/are really close to, and will be there by next year...6.0 boys I am 6.1 200lbs myself. Another item that I have find interesting is, yes in theory the OB and FSTR should get about the same MPG but in reality I have seen, read, heard that they (FSTR) get way less. I don't think I could afford the 04 xt so I will rule that one out. I was thinking more along the lines of 98-2000 any way. So this is the info I am requestign/requiring form you all out there in sooby land. But of course would want to do some mods to it...hey if it can't be modifies it aint worth buyin' Yes I would have to sell the Leg and combine it with the saved money for mods and add it, in order to purchase a FSTR and then go form there. I think what I need to do (once spring arrives I.E. income taxt return time) is see what I have for funding and what it is I want to do and go from there. But that still does not take away the fact the I am trying to turn my Leg into a OB or FSTR (more like the first instead of the latter). So the nest question would be (if I stick with the Leg) how/what can I do to add some extra pep into the 2.2 motor that I have. W/O having to turbo it. I know there is alot of stuff out there you can do, just don't know where to find it. I have been trying to figure out a way to make an cold air intake but that stupid MAF grid is mounted in the wrong spot and is the wrong shape to just be able to include into a home made air pipe. Basically I would just like to have some more pep and some more clearance, thats all I am really asking. But I still do really like the Forester. Ahh descions, descions.

I will make along story short. A: I always wanted the OBW but could never fine the funding for one. So I settled on a 96 Leg WGN L. My problem not enough ground clearnce fo what I do. (need it to get up into trail heads along BLM roads and forest roads for back packing) I can get into most places but an extra 3 in of ground clearnce would help out alot. So I was thinking no problem get some 96-2000 OB complete strut assemblies from the local bone yard, and som stock 15 or 16 in rims and throw some rubber on them, install the struts asms, badda boom, badda bing, I am good to go. Then I was thinking why don't I do some work on the motor as well, maybe turbo it, different exhaust etc etc. But then it hit me. With all the money I am going to put into this car (est $1500-2000+) why don't I just sell the car and take the money I was going to use and add it to the sale price and get something I really want. Which is a Forester. I am thinking I can get into the 98-2000 range or maybe a little higher with the money I would have. So I started doing some research and talking to a few Foerster freinds and they all say pretty much the same thing. Nice car...crappy gas mileage. But then I found this Forester Forum and they gave me some hope. I enjoy my 25/28mpg and know that I could get the same out of an OBW. The reasons I want a Forester: I like the body style, I love the clearnce, I want the Turbo motor. I like the cargo room, I just like it better than the other Suubs (save for the Baja). There is just something about it that appeals to me. Reasons I am thinking I would not want one. GAS MPG !!!! and They are a bit under powered from what I understand. The Outback Wagon issue. I would take one if it is the same height or maybe a scootch less, just because I can get the same MPG as my Leg wagon. But that is about the only reason...per se. I tried finding some sites that give statistical information on heights, length, engines, etc, etc, but too no avail. So I request from you all your opinions, experiances, ideas, thoughts on the matters etc, etc. Now if I can figure out why my car poped P0420 last night. Couldn't be form the 1.5 ft pf snow that we got last night and is completly caked around the cat. Cleared codes, unpacked snow, ckecked wiring, seems to be running ok, no engine light yet. Will keep posted.

Ok no codes/light thus far after doing the 30min battery disconect last night. Have gone through 5 drive cicles thus far two of which were more than ten miles, the other 3 about ten miles. What a co-winky-dink? Thanks for all the help, will keep you posted.

OK so tonight I will disconnect the battery and clear all the codes, since I CAN'T FIND FUSE # 14 !!!!!!! DANG IT. Ah crap I hate diag/electrical it takes the passion out of cars. Which is the whole reason I quite being a mechanic any away, but that is a different story Porcupine wrote: Hi. Ok, if it is flashing the ABS light when grounding pin #6, that is the ABS diagnostic connector. The codes you are getting on the ABS light would be previous historical/stored codes. True this may be, but that is the only black connetor that fits the description of the TCU diag connector. Now as far as ABS codes well yes, I remember one morning after about 10 minutes of ultimate snow drifting (my 11 and 13 year old boys love er I mean I love it... gotta be that responsible role model ya know) the ABS light was going bonkers, it reset after a restart and never came on. Nipper wrote: The engine still has to move all that mass. The only way to reduce that mass is to remove it So I take it that it does not disengauge the internal transfer case and rear diff when doing so...makes sense...Not like the trusty Loyale...ya, ya two differnt beast, don;t fall out of your chair laughing LOL Also I found the FWD fuse holder/plug...what type of blade fuse do I use for that, incase I have to use it.... I.E. 10,20,30A Would like to have one in the glove box if need be. Nipper wrote:Since your a newbee, always make sure your tires match, are worn equally, and properly inflated See above commnets on me being and ex mechanic. But quite frankly I do feel dumb and like a newb just because of the questions I keep on asking. And this Chilton manual doesn't do didly. Whish I had acess to All Data or something like that. Thanks again for all your help guys, at least I feel as if I am getting some where. Porcupine and Nipper hope I didn't offend you all in any way. I can come off as brass and harsh at times and don't mean to. Just the way I am I guess. Thanks again for all the help. Will keep you all posted.

I am testign the black one. And I gounded it out with the ground wire within the wire harness. There is also a yellow one (looks the same but larger) and then a gray connector that is screwed to my heater outlet.

Doing some testing before having to head out to work. First no problems turning. Next tried code retrival, but something is screwy. Grounding #5 does nothing, but grounding #6 does, and then the AT light does not flash but the ABS does. Next, (if I am reading the codes corectly) I have a 24, 27,12, (could be 20 because it is 2 longs) Here is the seqeunce of flashes 2long and 4 short (24) 2 longs (?), 2 longs and 7 short (27) according to the DTC page that would at least be a duty c. and maby a duty b (if it is 12). I think I will clear the codes and then see what happens. Let me explain what happend before the light started flashing. Aside from the numerous (at least 5 different times) ultimate drifting/360's/broadies...contests in snow covered parking lots things have been normal. Two days ago I was heading back from school and drove about 5 miles in 3rd gear (wasn't paying attention, speeds were 40mph or less) but didn't notice untill I started to get on the highay and was doing 60mph or so and the R's were up so I shifted into "D" and kepted going. That night (two nights ago) when heading out work upon starting the car is when I noticed the flashing. So whats up with all of that? Thanks for such a quick reply guys, I really, really apreciate it. Oh ya another thing (her goes my newbness) within trying to figure out this problem I keep reading about the FWD fuse and if it is in FWD or AWD or not, is this specific to some cars or all of my series. It sure would be nice to have a FWD option for the gas mileage aspects that extra 2mpg ads up in the gas bill. I sure miss my loyal for this reason.

On my 96 Leg Wag L the AT oil temp light is flashing for about a 5-10 second time duration after inital start up of the engine. It doesn't mattter if it has sat all night in the cold or if it has been driving for two hours it still does it very time I statr the car. Signalling to me there is a "soft code" problem going on. I checked the fluid it is good, red, doesnt' smell burnt, and up to level. The car still drives the same and there seems to be nothing out of the ordinary. I then checked for codes on a "code checker (from local auto parts store) and it came back with no DTC detected. So Now what? Is it a sensor problem or is it leading up to something potenially fatal down the road... please give me an exuse to buy a Forester Thanks in advance.

Holy cow this home made body kit is insane, Dial up users beware. It is written in Israli but who needs to read. Yes it truly was a brat at one time

Thanks, A picture is worth a thoudand words, as they say. I think I will start with set up A: Ob springs & struts, wtih 15 inch OB rims with tires that are more on the agressive side than street/touring. Try that out and then see if I want to go the additional two inches with scorpion springs. Like I said I am only looking to get up the BLM/fire/logging roads to the trail heads with a little more ease and less scrapage than I have been.

So were talking a potential 3-6in lift with OB struts and scorpian springs? Sorry for the NEWB post and sillyness of the post, but I just want to get my facts straight before I go on a ordering frenzy. Also what is the resonable lift limit of the legacy w/o having to modify anything? Maybe I should have asked that question first From looking at the pictures it appears that the body has been lifed off the ground more (hence body lift) than a stock OB. So in therory the runing gear is still at OB stock height but the Body is not. Is this correct. So one is still limited to the running gear height regardless of how high their body is. The only remidy for this would be to put on larger rims and tires. But then that would throw you aspect ratio off.

I read some where in here that it was possible to lift the stock up to 4.5in with forester struts. I would like to go a high as possible with out having to do any mods expcept for larger rims (15-16in compared to my 14) tires and an alignment, so at least Forester height. Considering that my 96 legacy is stock height, I scrape sometimes going up BLM and fire/logging roads getting to some of the trail heads that I need to get to. Granite I have gotten into some hairy places but would like that "little" extra clearance to make an easier trip into the woods. I guess even Outback height would be better than what I have now. I am understanding you correctly: If I put outback stuts on it will raise my car up 2in and then if I put on scorpion springs on it will bring it up another 2in, for a total of 4in lift. On a side note: what is the heigth difference between my stock 96 legacy wagon and a new Forester/Baja?

I would like to have at least the height of the Forester. I have strong mechanical skills (used to be an ASE cert) so that is not a problem. Will the forester struts fit, and then do I just use the forester rims and tire configuration or do I have to come down in profile height because the aspect ratio is now changed.

Ok so it is time that I "raise" the 96 leg wagon. I have read the post on installing forester struts, But I was parking lot comparing forester and baja next to my car (I had the advantage to be parked between the two) and I have to say the Baja is higher. Is this true or is it my eyes. Can I put Baja struts on my legacy or do I have to stick to the Forester struts. Either way it will be higher than it is, which will get me up the trail better. By the way what is a decent rim size and tire combo to put on this configuration. Thanks in advance

Dude where did you get that "bumper" I want one for my 96 I like your roof rack as well. Is that a custom buld or is it aftermarket (for both peices) ?

To me the mid 80's GL and Loyale body styles looked the same :-\ So I guess I had an EA82 because I replaced the T-belts in it. So What I think I am looking for is an even older style soob. Maybe late 70's. early 80's...Like the one that is on SJR's logo but only a four door, that is what I am looking for. But reality of it all is I want something that is farily inexpensive to build and will wheel good. I have been seeing buzz words like locked diff and split range trans so what years did those come in, or is locked diff a mod that is added to the DR trans. Basically something with HI/Lo and can be lifted farley well, and can wheel well is what I want. I will admit that the Loyale was cake to work on, but I do like the DR trans and looks of the older style soob's. Thanks for the input thus far. Ok I just came back from the 80's site (thanks s'ko) and what I want to "Beast" out is the 79-84 dl wagon w/4spd dr trans. and the EA -81t (because it is a FI motor) I like that body style it has a "burly" look to it. The reason why I want a wagon is more room for the kids and I. But what are your guys' recomendations. I am sure I can R&R an EA82 in any of these 80-84 ones right? Or can I get a newer gl/loyale and put in the DR trans and locked the diff. Can the motors be "rodded" out farely well or is just a matter of doing transplant and that is what were stuck with?...Ahh soo much to learn.