Mugs

I bought mine with a "blown motor" that had 120k on it. I replaced it with a motor (2.2) that only had 96k on it and about 170-180 compression in the cyls. At that time I replaced the t-belt & h2o pump along with the rear main. And of course the misc stullf like plugs, wires, fuel filter, belts etc. so as far as engine it should do ok. How far off will the speedo be with the bigger tires like the 70 series? I agree a big wheel well gap looks ugly. Oh yea my car is a 4 spd auto. I like sticks but I do to much city driving to always want to be shifting. Guess I am getting old. I may make my next car a stick (if it comes with it) but I am not realy partial to either. Well ok, I like auto's better. Unless its a racer then stick all the way. but for a daily I just like to get in and go.

I guess I didn't make myself very clear on the the tire issue. What I ment by bigger tires is 15/16in rims with apropriate size tires on them. I.E. My tires are now something like 195/75/14 so if I was to put 16's on I would then put on 205/55/16 etc, etc. That way it does not throw off the speedo and keeps the over all wheel diameter the same. Pus with a lower side wall I have less tire flex which equates to better cornering.

Thank you all for your great advice. Because of the numerous responses I can't answer every question individually, but will just hit some of the highlights. First I would be putting OB strut assemblies and struts (from the bone yard) on the Leg, in theory this should raise it about 4.5in or so from what I have read within this forum in the mods section. Next would come 15 or 16 in sooby rims with light truck tires or some meaty all seasons (in addition I plan on getting some steal stockers of the same size and putting snow tires on them to swap them out in the winter for all of my winter driving escapades.) I go backpacking year yound so the clerance is needed year round. Because if it isn't the mountains its the snow so either way I need clearance. Yes I have or at least/are really close to, and will be there by next year...6.0 boys I am 6.1 200lbs myself. Another item that I have find interesting is, yes in theory the OB and FSTR should get about the same MPG but in reality I have seen, read, heard that they (FSTR) get way less. I don't think I could afford the 04 xt so I will rule that one out. I was thinking more along the lines of 98-2000 any way. So this is the info I am requestign/requiring form you all out there in sooby land. But of course would want to do some mods to it...hey if it can't be modifies it aint worth buyin' Yes I would have to sell the Leg and combine it with the saved money for mods and add it, in order to purchase a FSTR and then go form there. I think what I need to do (once spring arrives I.E. income taxt return time) is see what I have for funding and what it is I want to do and go from there. But that still does not take away the fact the I am trying to turn my Leg into a OB or FSTR (more like the first instead of the latter). So the nest question would be (if I stick with the Leg) how/what can I do to add some extra pep into the 2.2 motor that I have. W/O having to turbo it. I know there is alot of stuff out there you can do, just don't know where to find it. I have been trying to figure out a way to make an cold air intake but that stupid MAF grid is mounted in the wrong spot and is the wrong shape to just be able to include into a home made air pipe. Basically I would just like to have some more pep and some more clearance, thats all I am really asking. But I still do really like the Forester. Ahh descions, descions.

I will make along story short. A: I always wanted the OBW but could never fine the funding for one. So I settled on a 96 Leg WGN L. My problem not enough ground clearnce fo what I do. (need it to get up into trail heads along BLM roads and forest roads for back packing) I can get into most places but an extra 3 in of ground clearnce would help out alot. So I was thinking no problem get some 96-2000 OB complete strut assemblies from the local bone yard, and som stock 15 or 16 in rims and throw some rubber on them, install the struts asms, badda boom, badda bing, I am good to go. Then I was thinking why don't I do some work on the motor as well, maybe turbo it, different exhaust etc etc. But then it hit me. With all the money I am going to put into this car (est $1500-2000+) why don't I just sell the car and take the money I was going to use and add it to the sale price and get something I really want. Which is a Forester. I am thinking I can get into the 98-2000 range or maybe a little higher with the money I would have. So I started doing some research and talking to a few Foerster freinds and they all say pretty much the same thing. Nice car...crappy gas mileage. But then I found this Forester Forum and they gave me some hope. I enjoy my 25/28mpg and know that I could get the same out of an OBW. The reasons I want a Forester: I like the body style, I love the clearnce, I want the Turbo motor. I like the cargo room, I just like it better than the other Suubs (save for the Baja). There is just something about it that appeals to me. Reasons I am thinking I would not want one. GAS MPG !!!! and They are a bit under powered from what I understand. The Outback Wagon issue. I would take one if it is the same height or maybe a scootch less, just because I can get the same MPG as my Leg wagon. But that is about the only reason...per se. I tried finding some sites that give statistical information on heights, length, engines, etc, etc, but too no avail. So I request from you all your opinions, experiances, ideas, thoughts on the matters etc, etc. Now if I can figure out why my car poped P0420 last night. Couldn't be form the 1.5 ft pf snow that we got last night and is completly caked around the cat. Cleared codes, unpacked snow, ckecked wiring, seems to be running ok, no engine light yet. Will keep posted.

Ok no codes/light thus far after doing the 30min battery disconect last night. Have gone through 5 drive cicles thus far two of which were more than ten miles, the other 3 about ten miles. What a co-winky-dink? Thanks for all the help, will keep you posted.

OK so tonight I will disconnect the battery and clear all the codes, since I CAN'T FIND FUSE # 14 !!!!!!! DANG IT. Ah crap I hate diag/electrical it takes the passion out of cars. Which is the whole reason I quite being a mechanic any away, but that is a different story Porcupine wrote: Hi. Ok, if it is flashing the ABS light when grounding pin #6, that is the ABS diagnostic connector. The codes you are getting on the ABS light would be previous historical/stored codes. True this may be, but that is the only black connetor that fits the description of the TCU diag connector. Now as far as ABS codes well yes, I remember one morning after about 10 minutes of ultimate snow drifting (my 11 and 13 year old boys love er I mean I love it... gotta be that responsible role model ya know) the ABS light was going bonkers, it reset after a restart and never came on. Nipper wrote: The engine still has to move all that mass. The only way to reduce that mass is to remove it So I take it that it does not disengauge the internal transfer case and rear diff when doing so...makes sense...Not like the trusty Loyale...ya, ya two differnt beast, don;t fall out of your chair laughing LOL Also I found the FWD fuse holder/plug...what type of blade fuse do I use for that, incase I have to use it.... I.E. 10,20,30A Would like to have one in the glove box if need be. Nipper wrote:Since your a newbee, always make sure your tires match, are worn equally, and properly inflated See above commnets on me being and ex mechanic. But quite frankly I do feel dumb and like a newb just because of the questions I keep on asking. And this Chilton manual doesn't do didly. Whish I had acess to All Data or something like that. Thanks again for all your help guys, at least I feel as if I am getting some where. Porcupine and Nipper hope I didn't offend you all in any way. I can come off as brass and harsh at times and don't mean to. Just the way I am I guess. Thanks again for all the help. Will keep you all posted.

I am testign the black one. And I gounded it out with the ground wire within the wire harness. There is also a yellow one (looks the same but larger) and then a gray connector that is screwed to my heater outlet.

Doing some testing before having to head out to work. First no problems turning. Next tried code retrival, but something is screwy. Grounding #5 does nothing, but grounding #6 does, and then the AT light does not flash but the ABS does. Next, (if I am reading the codes corectly) I have a 24, 27,12, (could be 20 because it is 2 longs) Here is the seqeunce of flashes 2long and 4 short (24) 2 longs (?), 2 longs and 7 short (27) according to the DTC page that would at least be a duty c. and maby a duty b (if it is 12). I think I will clear the codes and then see what happens. Let me explain what happend before the light started flashing. Aside from the numerous (at least 5 different times) ultimate drifting/360's/broadies...contests in snow covered parking lots things have been normal. Two days ago I was heading back from school and drove about 5 miles in 3rd gear (wasn't paying attention, speeds were 40mph or less) but didn't notice untill I started to get on the highay and was doing 60mph or so and the R's were up so I shifted into "D" and kepted going. That night (two nights ago) when heading out work upon starting the car is when I noticed the flashing. So whats up with all of that? Thanks for such a quick reply guys, I really, really apreciate it. Oh ya another thing (her goes my newbness) within trying to figure out this problem I keep reading about the FWD fuse and if it is in FWD or AWD or not, is this specific to some cars or all of my series. It sure would be nice to have a FWD option for the gas mileage aspects that extra 2mpg ads up in the gas bill. I sure miss my loyal for this reason.

On my 96 Leg Wag L the AT oil temp light is flashing for about a 5-10 second time duration after inital start up of the engine. It doesn't mattter if it has sat all night in the cold or if it has been driving for two hours it still does it very time I statr the car. Signalling to me there is a "soft code" problem going on. I checked the fluid it is good, red, doesnt' smell burnt, and up to level. The car still drives the same and there seems to be nothing out of the ordinary. I then checked for codes on a "code checker (from local auto parts store) and it came back with no DTC detected. So Now what? Is it a sensor problem or is it leading up to something potenially fatal down the road... please give me an exuse to buy a Forester Thanks in advance.

Holy cow this home made body kit is insane, Dial up users beware. It is written in Israli but who needs to read. Yes it truly was a brat at one time

Thanks, A picture is worth a thoudand words, as they say. I think I will start with set up A: Ob springs & struts, wtih 15 inch OB rims with tires that are more on the agressive side than street/touring. Try that out and then see if I want to go the additional two inches with scorpion springs. Like I said I am only looking to get up the BLM/fire/logging roads to the trail heads with a little more ease and less scrapage than I have been.

So were talking a potential 3-6in lift with OB struts and scorpian springs? Sorry for the NEWB post and sillyness of the post, but I just want to get my facts straight before I go on a ordering frenzy. Also what is the resonable lift limit of the legacy w/o having to modify anything? Maybe I should have asked that question first From looking at the pictures it appears that the body has been lifed off the ground more (hence body lift) than a stock OB. So in therory the runing gear is still at OB stock height but the Body is not. Is this correct. So one is still limited to the running gear height regardless of how high their body is. The only remidy for this would be to put on larger rims and tires. But then that would throw you aspect ratio off.

I read some where in here that it was possible to lift the stock up to 4.5in with forester struts. I would like to go a high as possible with out having to do any mods expcept for larger rims (15-16in compared to my 14) tires and an alignment, so at least Forester height. Considering that my 96 legacy is stock height, I scrape sometimes going up BLM and fire/logging roads getting to some of the trail heads that I need to get to. Granite I have gotten into some hairy places but would like that "little" extra clearance to make an easier trip into the woods. I guess even Outback height would be better than what I have now. I am understanding you correctly: If I put outback stuts on it will raise my car up 2in and then if I put on scorpion springs on it will bring it up another 2in, for a total of 4in lift. On a side note: what is the heigth difference between my stock 96 legacy wagon and a new Forester/Baja?

I would like to have at least the height of the Forester. I have strong mechanical skills (used to be an ASE cert) so that is not a problem. Will the forester struts fit, and then do I just use the forester rims and tire configuration or do I have to come down in profile height because the aspect ratio is now changed.

Ok so it is time that I "raise" the 96 leg wagon. I have read the post on installing forester struts, But I was parking lot comparing forester and baja next to my car (I had the advantage to be parked between the two) and I have to say the Baja is higher. Is this true or is it my eyes. Can I put Baja struts on my legacy or do I have to stick to the Forester struts. Either way it will be higher than it is, which will get me up the trail better. By the way what is a decent rim size and tire combo to put on this configuration. Thanks in advance

Dude where did you get that "bumper" I want one for my 96 I like your roof rack as well. Is that a custom buld or is it aftermarket (for both peices) ?

To me the mid 80's GL and Loyale body styles looked the same :-\ So I guess I had an EA82 because I replaced the T-belts in it. So What I think I am looking for is an even older style soob. Maybe late 70's. early 80's...Like the one that is on SJR's logo but only a four door, that is what I am looking for. But reality of it all is I want something that is farily inexpensive to build and will wheel good. I have been seeing buzz words like locked diff and split range trans so what years did those come in, or is locked diff a mod that is added to the DR trans. Basically something with HI/Lo and can be lifted farley well, and can wheel well is what I want. I will admit that the Loyale was cake to work on, but I do like the DR trans and looks of the older style soob's. Thanks for the input thus far. Ok I just came back from the 80's site (thanks s'ko) and what I want to "Beast" out is the 79-84 dl wagon w/4spd dr trans. and the EA -81t (because it is a FI motor) I like that body style it has a "burly" look to it. The reason why I want a wagon is more room for the kids and I. But what are your guys' recomendations. I am sure I can R&R an EA82 in any of these 80-84 ones right? Or can I get a newer gl/loyale and put in the DR trans and locked the diff. Can the motors be "rodded" out farely well or is just a matter of doing transplant and that is what were stuck with?...Ahh soo much to learn.

I am sure that this question has been asked at-nausium from newbies, so I will apologize now...SORRY... Ok now that, that is out of the way. After spending the weekend and yesterday combing through this forum I am now on the hunt for a "builder" and I have a few ?'s that I will just post in here as well. If you all could just direct me to the related links I can do the research myself and save you guys from having to re-type what (I am sure) would be for the bazillenth time the same thing. Ok here goes. I would like to have a soob to lift and take more off road, than my nice and purty 96 Legacy. I would still want it to be street legal and yet definitely not stock. I don't care what the shape of the body is in or the interior either. It will get gutted and "caged" any way. Just a few gauges and hopefully some A/C I have to have A/C for going down the road. I was thinking along the lines of 6-8in of lift. I am really regretting selling my 91 Loyale push button 4wd, but I had no idea at that time what I was selling (stupid is as stupid does) In my thinking I would want one of the older gen soobs' that have the HI/Low range diff just for better wheelin capabilities. I like the "burly" looks of the 4dr wagons that came before the GL's, what are those up to...mid 80's? My son wants a Brat. He is only 12 at the time but is already getting into cars. And of course he wants one of those (insert word here) cars that sound like a bumble bee on steroids or a jeep. But after looking through this forum he has changed his mind and now really wants a brat "lifted and all that dad :cool: " (I think he would be happy with what ever) It was music to my ears. Finally something we can connect on and do together that will fit the pocket book. Of course he will be helping pay for things but I figured if he saved up this summer and then buys something this fall. He would have another three years or so to build it the way he wanted to, and would be more responsible for it as well. So what is a good year of soob to get? I would of course want to beef the motors up as well and would actually prefer to install a FI engine in it if it came with a carb one. I.E. 1.8 TBI instead of the 1.6 carbed. I have decent mechanical aptitude as per me being an ASE and AAS automotive tech for a few years before I switched careers. And have always been around cars my whole life so building the things won't be too out of my league, I feel. I went on Craig’s list in our area and saw some potential ones, but I wanted to post the questions here before I go and spring for something that turns out to be lemon. Upon telling my wife my plans she said I would have to get rid of the car that is sitting in the back I am supposed to be restoring, I agreed. So if you know anybody who is looking for a rust free, straight bodied 1970 VW Square Back send them my way. Now for some technical/newbie ?’s: What the heck is an OBS (Outback Sedan ?) What is the difference between an EA81 and an EA82, I am assuming it is gens/years/and cc’s along with other features. What came after these motors/gens of soobs? What are the older wagons called anyway, there is the hatch but what is the four door version called? If somebody could give me a break down of all this that would be great. Or at least direct me to the sites and I can look at it myself…I learn best this way. Ok I think that is all I have for right now. I do have some driving ?’s but will post them later. Thanks in advance