Mugs

I sent you a PM. Cheers mugs

Well I have been banging my head on the wall for a bit, trying to figure out the shifting. But I finally came up with a system that works. Thanks to some suggestions from Monstaru and Baccaruda. I have it jigged in and will get her welded up tommarrow. I went after the 4x4 selector a bit, but could not come up with anything viable yet. So I dedcided to take a break from it and clean up the engine a bit and get started on it. She was caked in grease and needed a good cleaning before I even began on it. It was so oil and grease soaked that the timing coveres and rubber seals were all swollen to the point of rubbing into the crank pulley and a/c pulley. I have replacements for them so I was not too concerned with getting them perfect. I will get her super, uber clean when I start tearing into her. Think I will even take off the intake just to be able to clean the block better. Maybe even rent a steam cleaner but will see what happens as I go along. I will post some pics of the shifter mechanisms when I get it all welded up and in place.

Just throw caution to the wind, and friekin make the whole stinkin thing FULLY articulated, with crazy fat coil overs, and all custom tubed suspension and endoskeliton then just shell it with the hatch body...oh wait thats this winters project huh.

Slowly but surely man. Glad to see you are still able to get some progress done with your schedual. I can't wait to take our cars out and test at the ORV park........soon I hope.

Yah, the original one did nothave the little springy thingy in it to open it when the lever was pulled so I got that one at the junk yard one day when I was out there, and put it on. Works great now. Plus I figured it is not going to matter because the paint scheme is changing any way.

Beasty it is no worries man, I totally trust your lift and its geometry when it is done and they all take a look at it, they will feel grimmy

I run into this alot at the shop. Start by replacing the rear O2 snesor. If it is not working properly then it thinks the cat is below threshold and will set the 0420 code. I reccomend a Bosch or factory O2 not a cheezy run of the mill money saver kind. Hope this helps, and keep us posted.

True they don't compress the suspension, but they allow the car to "come up" enough for the weight of the engine and car to bring the hubs closeer to center instead of it acting like I have it on jack satnds. At least that is what I think I am trying to say. It makes sense to me any ways.

Yah I bet she would. I should send her pics of the empty engine bay as well. Maybe I will after I get some legal documents still owed to me on the car

Not sure yet, some all-terains of some sort. I haven't even crossed that bridge yet. I still need to get the EJ in and then I can worry about how to drive it out of my garage.

Also when the dinky 13 in tires and rims come off and the 15's with 235/75/15 goes in that will bring the fully extended struts back into where the should be. What a reversed camberd front wheel drive vw "bug" isn't cool?

Yah I know another suby build thread But this one is mine dang it, and it is the offroad forum. So here goes What it is: 85 GL Wagon 5 Spd D/R What has been done/is in the works: 6in monster lift (thanks monstaru & beastIdrive) EJ22 adapter plate (beastIdrive) Tore out the toasted manual rack and replaced it with a power steering rack and lines Took off all the rubber trim custom built steerng linkage Aquired a wrecked donor car for EJ22 and pulled it and now and starting to go through it. What is still in the works: Shift inkage and stabilizer rear disc brake conversion EJ22 conversion Plus a ton of other crap that goes through my head daily. But I want to get it running and driving first, before I tackle the other stuff A special thanks and shout out to "monstaru" of rthe inspiration, motivation and help. A second shoutout to "beastIdrive" for the monster lift and plate. Man aint nothing going to break that stuff. Now for some pics monstaru gettin' jiggy with the radius rod mounts I need some 31's holy crap numbchux where are you she need some resealing done, but it was a one owner car, with all maintainance receipts Thanks for watching Cheers

Ok so I checked the FAQ before posting here and came up with nothing. So here goes. Monstaru came over and helped me (he did most of it) install my 6in lift on my 85 Gl . So now comes the work of figureing out how to get the steering reconnected and the shift linkage and d/r selector back up into the drivers compartment so I can dirve this thing. I think I have the steering figured out, but what do you guys do about the shift linkage, shifter stabalizer, and d/r selector? Any and all helps especially with pics would be great. Sorry no pics yet, I am haveing trouble transfering the pic from my camera to my pc, but when I get soem I will post them. A special thanks to Monstaru, who showed me that it is possoble to work on my car without a hoist, air tools, and on my back.

Snap-On makes a spark plug socket that does not have a boot. The plug just sits in there and then when your done tighting just wiggle the socket and it releases. I think I paid about 20 bucks for it off the truck when he came by the shop on his regular weekly visit. I love it, and it works great. As far as re-installing I just drop the plugs in the whole (apply anti-seize to the threads first) and then hand start them with the same socket and a wobbly extension. Also this socket works great just the same for removal. I will get the part number and post it for you. I hate to say it, but you may need to remove the valve cover just to give you a bit more room and then maybe you can get a pair of needle nose in there, or a thin knife or something to remove that stubborn socket rubber. Hope this helps.

Try bolting everything back up to creat a solid platform. Of course leave the tranny side of the axle out and then pound away at the bugger. I would reccomend wrapping the lug nuts in something like duct tape to prevent the accidental hit to them that could cause dammage. If that does not work, what I have done in some cases is put the axle back into the tranny, then un bolted eveything in order to remove the hub (bungy cord the calipers up and out of the way). Once the hub is able to just hang from the front cv joint I have hit the hub in the flattest part that is not the bearing area and "popped" the axle apart from the inside of the boot (basiaclly the joint comes off the internal snap ring) then I cut away the boot to be able to get the hub free and over to a vise or press. I then proceed to hammer on the axle using the vise as a platform to lay the hub flat, the same goes for a press but instead I press the axle out...but not everybody has access to a press. Once the cv part of the axle is out then I take out the DOJ part of the axle from the tranny, and put everything pack together, and of course I apply a light layer of grease to the splines and hub as well before going back in. Hope this helps

I have quit a bit to say about this, but I need to head to bed. Most shops in this area charge about 2600-3500 for the job. Our shop charges about 3600 or so depending on what is needed. But that includes maching the heads, instaling new valve stem seals, along with solvent diping the head and valves. Re-sealing oil pump, seperator plate, oil pan, and replacing rear main, valve cover gaskets. New t-belt, H20 Pump. t-stat, pulleys, plugs, and all other seals and gaskets invloved with the tear down of the heads. Those that only charge 1600 or so are only replacing the gaskets and nothing else, some time they don't even maching them, they just check them "straightness" and replace the gaskets if their "staraight."

This is true, and they are so "old" now that one can ouc one up for about $400-1000. But if you want the latest greatest the SnapOn Modis by far the bets out there now. But with a price tag of $7800 it is pretty much for shops to own and have...good thing I am a suby tec and don't have to fork that much out personally...well at leat for that any way.

First he is a customer. Second to give you an idea of how this guy maintains his car...My 96 lego wagon is for sale and I would not sell it to him just because of the aperance of his car both inside and out. I would cry every time he would bring back "my" car into the shop for some type of maintainance and see all of what he has done to it...especially the interior...it looks like a time bomb went off in it. Plus he's a little arrogant poo poo head anyway. So basiaclly I will find a turbo motor to replace it with, or tell him like I told him to do before...SCRAP IT. Personaly this is one suby customer I hope to never have to deal with in the near furture if ever at all. Most of my suby customers are great and I work with them on the repairs of their cars...but this guy...ha. Not again, not if I have to.

I could give them a call and pick there brains. It is for a customer of mine at my shop. Did not even know there was a "suby" shop in Hayden. Thanks for the help

looks great, so excited to see the progress of it.

93 Legacy Turbo. Motor is el gonzo. Found oil squirters in oil pan and then the head gasket blew and there is coolant in the oil pan, valves clack like crazy. I personally don't like this series of turbo motors and want the guy to do a conversion to non turbo EJ22. what if any is involved with the retro fit, in particualr the ecu/wiring. I know I will need to find a "stock" y-pipe, but other the just finding and bolting in the NA EJ22 what els is needed. Thanks in advance for your help.

The head bolts will do this. Its ok

Be careful buying the aftermarket H2O pump and that stupid paper gasket that comes with it. In fact I don't recomend it at all. Within the past week I have had to repair two failed after market H2O pump failures that were done by a "joe snuffy" shop that did not know what they were doing. The one job was so bad I had to pretty much replace everything except the heater core. The hoses were blown to smitherines and the radiator inlet was gernaded. There was so much metal shavings in the cooling system I could have recylced it and made some more money...it was acutally a butchered head gasket job, that I just had to stop before I found anything ealse wrong with the car...but I am sure it will be back in some time when the HG's fail.

Like I have always said and you can qoute me on this one "Ford Owner Really Dumb" I can not even voice how much I had frieking fords.

Yank the motor, pull the heads, have them re-built, replace the head gaskets, replace the cam seals, pull the oil pump and re-seal it, install a new crank seal while its off the block, replace the valve cover seals, and spark plug seals, tensioner and idler pulleys, H20 pump, t-stat, and re-seal your oil pan while it is out. Re-seal your seperator plate and if it does not have the updated tin one with the allen head bolts do that as well, replace the rear main, and don't froget to re-sela the end caps where the cams are as well as replacing the rubber seal as well. Or at least that is what I would do with it if it was my car and I had it. Then again I can do all that work, but if your not so mechanically inclined better fined a reputable shop and have them do it. I would also do a lot more to it then just this, like a full on tune up while out of the engine bay, oh and don't forget the t-belt as well. There is more I am sure, but that is just off the top of my head