Mugs

Two thoughts, it could be your rear main, or it could be the seperator plate. A: Did you update the sepreator plate with the metal one? B: did you use the updated allen head bolts? One will have lock tight on it, it goes on the first left hole that is not a through hole. C: Did you use "Ultra Grey" sylicon or equivilant and not some run of the mill kind. D: Did you replace the PCV valve at the same time? if not you may be creating an excessive engine pressure and thus a leak has sprung again. Lastly if and when you seperate the engine/trans again and you find that it is the rear main, pull the seal and check around the crank shaft to make sure you have not scared the sealing surface from previous attmepts of removal and install. If you have you will need to perform a speedy sleeve repair before putting a new seal on. Hope this helps.

Ok, I will have to admit my nievity on this one. This is the first 2.2 turbo I have worked on and so I was green going into it. It is a 94 Leg wagon 2.2 SOHC Turbo. It came in runnning like a dog and and upon further diag work I determined that the turbo was shot. But also the valve covers were leaking like a sive and the oil pan was leaking like mad as well. When I pulled the oil pan I noted that it was way way way too glittery for my tates and put it on the RO. But the boss did nothing about it so I completed the job and then test drove the piss out of it for about an hour or so. Everything seems to be back to "normal" so I turned in the keys. Now it is back (i week later) and making a horrible valve train noise...like it is starving for oil. I don't have the proper oil pressure tester to be able to tap into the oil pump, but I am just wondering is there anything I could have missed when doing the oil pan. The pick up tube came out different then all the others, in the fact that it is attached to a bracket and the bolts were in a different place. After all the repairs were done there was this one little bolt that has a little orffiss hole going through it. I could not figure out where it went and all the bolts that held the pick up tube and what not was in place so I ignored it, and besides a few other oddities fell out of the pan as well. Did I miss something, or is this engine toast like I tried to tell the customer and my boss, or is there some tests I can do to figure out what the heck is going on. Any and all help would be greatly apreciated. Thanks in advance.

Pull the tranny, alot less liability for something to go wrong on the way back in or out. Replace the rear main and new updated seperater plate with the new udated bolts kit as well. Since the tranny is out replace the clutch and have the fly wheel turned and put it all back together. And like others have said it is more likely the seperator plate then the rear main.

Oh what ever I can do better stunts than that BEEP BEEP BEEP...Huh, what, oh man the alarm clock is going off. That was a definite add to the favorites folder.

I am in too. I tried to join the beta a few weeks ago but the account set up was not succsessful, so let us know when it is up and running

What year of legacy were you working on? I have never had to do all that. Just take out the roll pin, undo the axle nut, stamp and mark the alignment bolt on the two strut bolts, take out both strut bolts, pull down the whole assembly with you hand/body weight and pop out the axle on the caliper side, then off the tranny side. Repeat process to install. Badda boom badda bing 15 mins your done.

Ditto on all the repsonses, and yes you will want to replace the wires as mentioned, as per the oil soaked ruber will swell up and wil be a pain in the bahooky to get back on the plugs. You will need to order (from the factory) valve cover seal, plug well seals, and valve cover bolt seals, to do the job properly. Happy wrenching

Depends on the area. Here in the INW where I live the average shop rate is about $90 and hour. I don't work for a dealership but I do work on subys in the shop I am at. Of course it depends on the suby I am working on, but lets give the average for say an 01 obw 2.5 sohc, I charge/get 1.3 hours for plugs and 1.5 for plugs and wires. Plugs usually cost about $4-7 a piece I think. Now If I am doing the vc's I only charge an additional .3 for plug replacment and no charge to run the new wires. Hope ths helps

Welcome. I have a friend who lives in W. Perth...just bought an 08 Forester..... And for the un-informed, aussiebrock does not mean Washington State when he says "WA", he means Western Australia, which is where Perth is. Just had to clear that up before too many got confused there mate. Cheers.

ooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh la la very nice.

Actually I think I might just try and replace the auto trans and sell the car or part the car out, as I just got today an 85 GL 5spd with DR diff :banana:

Looks cool to me, but the first thing that hit me was the chrome grill trim..its looks like the friekin mazda symbol:eek: I hate mazda and fords. And no way suby are even close to audi's. I work on both and let me tell you what I will take a suby any day. Do you have any clue what it takes to work on an audi...there junk man, stay away from them, and the mantainence is out of this world pricey. But if you want one and have enough money to pay for the up keep go ahead I guess.

Ok so I just aquired a 90 loyale 2wd auto (ya blase' I know, but it was free) and the tranny is blown. So how hard would it be to just throw in a 4 or 5 speed? Finding an auto is a little tough for some reason. Also how hard would it be just to convert this over to a 4 wheely rig It is more or less just going to be a car to get on the road and filp over (sell) to be able to fund a different project. Unless it is fairly easy to turn into a killer 4wd. Were talking DR diff, 6 in lift, ej22 (sitting in the garage as we speak) etc :banana:

Ya I know about bleeding the vanagons, we get alot of them in the shop. It would be my first, but I always like to dive right in...That being said going for the svx motor from the get go wolud be something I might try. I would not want to do it again...I.E. put in a 2.5 and then be disapointed/wishing that I had the svx from the start. I am not trying to make a racer but the extra power will come in handy with a loaded westy 2 dogs, 2 kids, and a wife :-\

Ok so here is my theory on the subject, but I want to here from you guys on it. I am getting ready to buy a H20 boxer westy and the first thing that is going to happen is an engine conversion. So here is my theory/questions. An H6 is going to give me more horse power and therfore require less "energy" to move the westy, therefore it should get me better gas mileage then an EJ25 SOHC an also will power me up the steep grades with ease because the motor will not have to work as hard. Is this an accurate theory or am I off base and it does not really matter. This brings me to my next question, I have an EJ22 in the garage that needs the heads re-worked and the crank key area re-worked as well (previous owner screwed it all up trying to do an at home t-belt job...It was cheaper for me to buy a used motor and do an R&R) So basically all I need to do is have my machinist do the work and find a wireing harness, and a away I go. But I would really like to save this motor for an old school suby that will become my "new" backpacking rig...(since I have to sell the 96 leg wagon to finance the westy project) So What, if any; is the advantage of the EJ25 SOHC over the EJ22. Both are readily available to me and not that much in the way of cash difference. Am I am just gaining a few extra ponies and will it really make that much of a difference in the long run of things, or should I really focus on getting an H6 style motor and going with that? I want to here from all of you out there that has allready gone through the hoops of this. Thanks in advance.

Ridng my bike without a helmet, down to the corner store without the fear of getting, raped, mugged, kidnapped, or killed. Flying down the country road in the back of a beat up pickup, sitting on top of the fresh cut hey bails. Swimming in the creek and not worrying about some disease Doing over a 100 mph in a car on a back road and know you will never see a cop My built to the hilt 69 baja bug inocent summer love playing in the mud

Ok so now that the dust has settled, I can get around to posting the results for the week. First off thank you to everyone that responded. Since I am the now and new self proclaimed suby tech and also taking on side jobs with the hope of maybe opening my own shop here in a few years you will be "seeing" a lot more of me. Everybody and their mother had a speedy sleeve for the cam on a 01 OBW 2.5 SOHC but not the crank, which is the one I nicked. We had to order one from Cali overnight. It is a SKF part number 99121 can't remember the cost, but is was not cheap. I had to mic the crank and give them the specs and they sent the apropriate sleeve. I had to shave off about a half inch from the width. Did this by using a gasket remover pad and die grinder in a vise. I just kept going at it untill the mic spec came within toloerance. I then put some ultra grey around the inside to keep the oil from seeping betweem the two and put everything back together, and let the car run for about an hour...no leeky The local parts store (carquest) across the street from our shop had that E-Bay lysle seal puller for 18 bucks so I bought, looks like it should work out well in the next situation where I have to pull a seal like that. The Snap On seal puller (set) worked well for this application (I did not have the lysle yet) but keep in mind the seal had only been in for about 5 days since I did the job. I used the stubby contoured tip one (SGSR3) and it popped right out. These are supposed to me a non maring material so we will see. Any way all is well in Doug's suby world right now, and hopfeully my little niche that I have finally discoverd (in other words I finally found a car that I enjoy working on and understand, and don't cringe when they come through the door. Plus the boss is giving them all to me since I told him that all I want to work on is suby's.) will pay off if the Lord sees fit for me to be doing this as a carreer and not teaching college. Again thanks to all for your help. And I look forward to becoming a full participant in this forum...provided I can find a way to not work 70 hours a week

Why don't you use a vise I have use one in the past and just went super micro slow with it, and allowed about a second delay between each micro turn, this seem to work ok and never had a problem. Is this a big no, no for subys, or will going super slow still be ok?

OK now that I have proclaimed myself as the designated suby tech at the shop I work in, I have been getting all the subys to work on Yah:banana: But here in lies a problem, 2 out of the 3 subys I did timing belts on are on a come back for leaks. Upon opening the timing covers back up there it is... a cam leak from a brand new seal . Problem, I mared the cam pulling the seal. The second one is coming back tommarrow, so I am sure I will be doing the same thing again. What I did was put a speedy sleeve over the damaged cam and replaced the seal and it solved the problem. When the Snap On truck came today I asked him if he had anything special besides the the traditional seal puller and pick I have been using. He sold me a set of cool little spatula hooky thingys that some of the tech have been using at other shops...Hope they work...If they do I will report back and give part numbers...They are desigend to not mar finishes. So this is my question to all the suby techs out there and others that are in the know. For me it is just standard to replace the seal on a t-belt job, along with all the other usual stuff, and yes I use suby parts. But in all 3 cases the seals have not been leaking when they came in, I just replaced them because you know murphy's law will have them leaking in 6 months and now were having to deal with warrenty work... So what do you all out there in suby land do...Leave the seals if they are not leaking, and then pray...or replace the seals, but use some special puller to get them out...It seems that no matter how careful I am I still mess one up. PLEAS HELP, ALL YE GREAT SUBY GURUS :-\ What is iti that I can do to avoid this problem and not piss the bos off any more, and continue to build up my suby niche. Thanks in advance for all the advise. Some after thoughts... I use seal glide, I ensure proper instalation of the seal...I.E. it is not crooked etc, I clean all surfaces before instalation, I use a proper seal installer....What am I doing wrong?

I did not take the time to read everrones post so if this is a repeat, then ignore. I have a customer who was repeatidly coming into the shop for this same problem, but scoping and probing gave no info. His car never ran bad, just would always throw the code. Upon further investigation, I.I. him coming in once a week, to get his light cleared, I decided (since we were slower then normal) to do a little more than usual investigative work. What I found was the his plug seals were leaking into the well holes and the oil was at time grounding out the plug and or just no letting enough ionizing to go on and this would set the code. I replaced the valve cover gaskets, plug grommets and bolt gromets, the oil soaked plug wires and sent him on his way. He has not been back for that particular issue for some time, I am led to believ this solved the problem. Hope this helps.

As a guy who makes a living working on cars, I will say this: Ford Owner Really Dumb...Frik Our Ride Died My tools don't touch fords, or at least they try not to..I hate working on those things, all though they seem to break down enough to make a person a lot of money...If they wanted the stress of working on them. Now about the WRX, Subys do have their issues, but if she is responsible and maintains it well and gets her major services done but a knowledgable suby tech or a good suby shop and has the proper repairs done it should last here a long time. Subys are like Volkswagens (I work on those too) they require special knowledge and in some applications special tools to work on. But they are straight forward and easy once one gets they hang of it. Which is why I created a suby niche in the shop I work at...next: Either grad school or open my own suby doors. Is it an STI or just WRX? Can I be your daughters friend

Sorry guys didn't realize this was allready here..I couldn't delete it, but if the powers that be can..do so. Boring flick, but man o man it would be a fun ride to have. Someone just needs to show him how to drive it like its stolen.

DUDE first of all we have met, remember Sweitzer Moutnain on the "day for cancer" I was the green 96 leg getting sidways on the turns behind you. You were sticking like silly putty to a newspaper. You parked right I parked left and we chatted subies for a bit before hitting the slopes. But the other instance on both accounts was neither of us (together anyways). ON a side note isn't ineteresting that the majority of suby owners on this forum are from the PNW. IMO subies are iconic for the region and are the "new" vw of our day. And of course with that follows a certain idealogy, culture, etc, etc. Just my thoughts

Was this up at Look Out Pass. Was the Loyale silver with a cracked windshield. This sounds very dejavouish to me. If it was the loyale was mine.

Hey guys, went out Bping this weekend. And as I was coming back to the trailhead the sun was setting and my suby was being siluetted by it. I thought it was the ultimat suby statement (for now any ways) and wanted to share my pics. Others feel free to share theirs. ....or maybe I just was stinkin glad to see my car after battling 30 mph winds all night and day