Mugs

Ok so here is some pics of the BRAT I got. This is the one I have been discussing in "BRAT as a motivator" post. I have come to the conclusion that my son won't get this BRAT but will earn a suby (BRAT or otherwise) by helping me with this one. It is so straight and clean that I more then likely won't turn it into a trail rig, (that would be for a beat down BRAT) because BRAT's are so hard to find these days. Not sure if I am going to go full resto on it, or go street beast, or street racer but I am sure it will work itself out. I haven't washed it or anything yet, figured I would show it like I got it. It has alot of "mice nest" (been sitting outside in the country for 3 years) in the vent that I will need to get out some how. I can see it in the vents and it blows on me every time I turn on the fan Some brief history on it. The owner had it for 15 years annd used it as his winter rig and then stopped driving it 3 years ago because it would not pass emissions, and he did want to put the money into to make it pass. It starts right up, but needs a tune up, it misses pretty bad, but drives fine. First thing I need to do is stop the 4 rust spots that have started and give it a good detail job, suck out the vents and then pull the motor and steam clean the engine bay and get rid of the battery acid all over it. Clean the engine up and do a tune up. Then we can go from there. The run down 86 BRAT GL EA81 Hydrolic Lifters 4 Speed D/R Fun Tops Rear Slider Tail gate chrome Intact rear tail lights ETC, ETC. P.S. This one is more fun to drive then the "Stomper" I love the agressive looks, and the uniqueness of it. Wish I had a beat down one to turn into the ultimate trail rig Her are some pics

Well I got it buttoned up enough to drive it this weekend. Got a trip permit for it and welded on a glass pack. I am down to the little stuff. For the most part it ran ok, have some drivablity issue's to work out but that will come in time. IT was a fun weekend because I swapped the trip permit between the BRAT and the wagon. and drove them both this weekend. so here are some pics. Just need to finish the bumpers, make a skid plate or two, run light, make a basket, tuck up my exhaust and run it differently, etc, etc.

Ok I can finally down load pics again, so I am going to play catch up. Obvioulsy the engine is in and running (but idles weird) and all that is left is a better exhaust, skid plates, tires, and registraton. Keep the fingers crossed on not having to go through emissions. After that small stuff like lights, cb, roof rack etc, etc. It can come in time. Ok so here is some pics to bring us all up to date. My "custom" radiator hose to the H2O pump. I inserted a 1in brass coller in a hose, Brian and I found at Schucks that was in the shap of a "U" and then instered it into the EJ hose using Permatex Aircraft Aviation Gasket Maker. The coller acts as a clamping force....So far no leaks. I repeated the same for the top hose but just used the Stock EA hose and cut to fit into the EJ. No more spaghetti wireing. All connections were sodered into the wiring of the EA82 and or other respective areas of the EJ. Then heat shrinked and finally loomed. Di-electric was applied to all connectors as well. The rims before and then after. Tommarrow I mount and balance the tires. And finish putting in the center console...The rest of the dash and all that, is all ready in. I finally worked out the final shifting action so that is good to go. Hopefully in about another week I can be driving it on the road. Just in time to, we have snow in the forecast.

Thats beautiful. I wish I could do my whole wall on one side of my garage in work benches. But brushed stainless like you said.

OK a couple of things. A: the wiring diagram that Chux gave is some what in-correct. In that the numbers are off. The loyale plugs go from 1-23. On mine (85 crabed GL) the plugs have seperate number counts. The right (psg side) is 1-7 and the left is 1-14. So when looking at the wireing digram for chuxs loyale it will not be correct. It is tue however that the #4 wire that says "speed pulse" is the correct numbeer to corespond to the VSS. The way I figured this out was pull out the cluster and follow the curcuit board. The only curcuit that did not make sens or that i did not recognize was one called RSW...which I am assuming stands for "reed switch." But on Chux's diagram you will find that the tach wire is #19 but on mine it is #7. I found that out by again following the circuit board on the back of the cluster and then matching up the pins connectors with wires. I know I got the right one because my tach does work. Hope this helps.

Thanks for taking the vid, Monstaru. I got alot of the wire harness "cleaned up" and loomed. Only a few more wires to do on the drivers side and then I can start putting the interior back together. I will attempt to post some pics tonight for every one but my puter' seems to having some issues as of late and that is why I have not been posting anything. Thanks Mugs.

It runs and breathes. Got the engine and everything else hooked up. Started her up. She started on a dime I am pooped and 4 am comes way too soon for me, so I won't be posting any pics as of yet. But I will hopefully get some up in a few days. Plus maybe a vid in the near future. I am so stoked. Cheers. P.S. Thanks Monstaru, for all the help today.

Its so clean that it needs a lift and some swampers to get out that "new car smell."

Hey Matt, So you found us. Welcome. Did the driveline work out? and what became of the lego. Holla back when you can. Cheers Doug.

Personally I thinkt he new line of subarus absolutly suck. I have looked them over and under and they are ugly, too big, and nothing but plastic. Plastic, intakes , plastic this and plastic that. There not even subies any more. They have lost there agressive styling and succomb to the latte drinking Honda element and audi driving toruons out there. Legacy sedan...Honda Accord Forester...Honda CRV Impreza/WRX...Audi A4 wagon Tribecca....Acura MDX/Nissan Murano And the new 2010 OTB what the hell is that. And if he were a real man he would have more then just mud puddle spray on it. He probably thought he went 4 wheeling because he drove down a dirt road after a rain storm for a mile. My person favorite EJ series cars are the 96-2000 range. I think they had the best styling and pretty much everything else...except the 2.5 we all know those sucked but that is minor compared to the whole car sucking. Just my two cents

Yes weld it.. 4:11's are dime a dozen any way.

Ya man its under my "another suby build thread"

That you be a blast to run around till it broke. Definitly would get some looks.

Looks good man. I love the "red neck" cup holders

I want the tranny out of it

Ok so my wagon is about done as far as a running driving lifted suby . So next comes add on stuff or trail ridin' stuff. I figured I would start with a good CB and a good set of offroad lights for the front. So what kind of CB would you recommend and what kind of lights. Funds are tight right now so it will have to be CL or Ebay. Thanks in advance

I got the wireing harness for the EJ the other day, and have been working on it like a mad man. I am so close to being done I can taste it. I will post some pics later on. Maybe tonight...if I feel like it.

Ya I bet you would, Actually it is going to get parked in the grarage as soon as the wagon is done.

Well I guess I have no imagination, and I definitly don't have too much money...Oh wait thats because I put the food on the Mac, Snap-on guys table. But in return I can put my food on my table because I can do the job more eficiantly and professionally, and correct the first time out the door.

stay away from anything VW/AUDI/BMW it will bring nothing but nightmares after about three years of driving

I personally would not recomend towing anything more then 1500 pounds with a subaru. Maybe with an H6 but the forester does not come in one yet. Perhaps the diesel will have more towing capacity. Also keep in mind that towing also includes supension, and suby supension is more car like then truck like so softer everything and car rates instead of work rated. Cheers

I would charge you about 800 before taxes and shop fees. What you get (all suby parts) new belt, all pulleys and idlers, h20 pump and gasket, 1 crank and 2 cam seals, oil pump reseal, vc gaskets, suby coolant with additive, and a t-stat. But then again I am even less then the other independant suby shop in town. If there is no suby independant shops in town look for/ask around a shop that does a lot of subys or does really good japaneses car work or even better only works on japanese cars. Hope this helps

Thats the backing plate, and yes its replacable. It is important with keeping road debree and other grim out of your braking system. And from the looks of it I would say it needs replacing and alot of penatrent to get it off. Count on snapped bolts and some drilling and taping action to say the least. Personally from the looks of your brake sysytem you keep posting I would go throught the whole thing and replace it all.

As long as the belt marks are on the cam marks, and crank sprocket marks upon install your ok. What your seeing is normal. Especially after a "dry run" and then back up to TDC.

One thing is for sure....that is an East Coast vehicle:lol: