Mugs

I understand that...But that is not my point, I guess. For that matter why aren't we all just taking suby bodies and putting them on a frame and calling it good. Take your rig for instance... In my oponion it is still subie. Even though you have straight axles, transfer case, etc, etc. But what makes it s subie still is that you built, you frame, worked out the angles, did the r & d, so on and so forth. You essentially built yours from scratch per se'. Now I am not saying all this to dis repspect Scott by no means. He is a master builder, and fabricater. But for some reason sticking a car on an allready "built" frame where 90 % of the work is done for a person doesn't count. Thats all I am trying to say. I guess I am being a bit of a purest and also a newb. After all the first time I ever went out wheeling in any thing it fell through the ice Now you want to talk Baja, or hill climb that is different I have experiance in that for many years. But in reality I grew up around rods and the drag strip. So this whole wheeling thing is new to me. All I was really trying to do is a build something that could get me to some of the higher trail heads for my backpacking trips. :-\ I don't how it got taken so far...now it seems as if I have to back pedel a bit to get where I want. But that is a diferent thread. I have hijacked thsi one on my personal stuff long enough.

for the record, and in my opinion. Using an exisiting frame and "just mounting" the body on it does not count as building a suby or even qualify it to be a suby any more. It is now just another vehicle mounted to a truck frame. I have seen many cars done this way, 69 camero, 57 belair etc, etc. Is it still a camero or belair, well yes, but none of its integrity or originality was used. In my opionion, its a cop out. Sure it may take a wee bit of fabricating to make some things work, but not as much as if it was to remain true to the art form of lifiting and getting a suby to do what they do via there own componants or parts. Ok I am done ranting now...for a little while any way.

Yes lets start getting something solidified.

No snow here. And trust me you would be disapointed if you drove 2 hours up here to just go "wheeling" in the ORV park. But now if your in the area then sure. And give us locals a call to see if were up for a fun run in the park. Would more then likely be Monstaru and I. Maybe Twitch if you gave him a big enough heads up

I would be willing to re-drill the rims....but I live in Spokane. If you make it here I wil do them for you. Would have to work out some sort of dealy-yo though.

For all the money your are potentially planign on spending on your Bi-drive Recreational All terrain Transporter (bet you didn't know what it ment did you) you might as well go ahead and spend the money on a rod or muscle car of same calue and go play with the big V*'s and have something. Either lurk around here and find out exaclty what it is we do and have done to these wonderful cars we call subaru or go roddin, but not both. And crying out loud loose the I am still a teenager even though I'm not mentality of everything needs to be fast, big, and or euro rice and keep it simple. Use th BRAT as a fun learning tool, and then go on from there.

Well crap man where am I going to put my suit case or take a nap when on a road trip

Put in a working wiper switch from Pull & Save. Yeah now I have working wipers, intermittent and washer Berfore I just had a wired in toggle switch with only one speed and had to turn it off and on. Amd had to time it just right to get her to stop at the bottom of the windshield. Also move the plug/connector of the blinkers to my marker lights (the connector is intechangable) by so doing so I was able to get the blinkers that were zip tied off the bumpers and into the "lights" So now not only do I have frontal blinkers and side marker blinkers.

BOTH..... Can you say straight axles....Or just mount the thing on a truck frame and go from there.

Well like the title says. I sunk her good Long story short, I went out on a maiden voyage alone and close to dark. Everything was going well when I was heading back up to the gate of the ORV park when blam (because I had to be stupid and try the edge of the ice) She's stuck. I called a friend (USMB member) and while he was on his way I try working it back and forth. I actually manage to get it forward a bit more but then the engine died because the water fried the alt. He gets to the ORV park and says the gate is closed and we will have to leave tha car untill tommarrow. I walked my frozen and soaked butt up the trail and get in the truck. So there she sits from 4:30 thurs eve untill 8:00 am the next day. The engine completly submerged in water the whole night Well we arrive the next day and spend about two hours trying to get her out. My friend was being as gentle as he could with his Dodge cummins and finally she came all the way out. We towed her up to the parking lot, pulled the plugs, hand cranked her over and then charged the batt a bit. She started right up and smoothed out after a few minutes. I limped her over the his house, we changed out the alternator and I went the rest of the way home. I then stipped the interior (carpest will be not going back in) then began to work on the engine. I drained the milky/frothy oil, put new in and ran an engine flush. Then drained and filled again with new oil and filter, and air filter and she runs good considering. I now have a bit of lifter noise but what do you want when she was red lined a bazillion times for about 45minutes. As a result of pulling her out, now the passenger side tire is pushed back an inch. And I can see where it is bent on the frame where the lift block connects. It tracks ok, just takes off with a shudder now because that is the power side tire and it must be catching first or something If I slip the clutch a wee bit more it doesn't do it, so I am going to have to learn how to "take off again" I will try an pull her out a bit but I am not going to mess with it too much for fear fo pulling the blocks out of the frame.

I have welded with both good and bad welders. And I say you get what you pay for. I am currently using a friends cheepy made in Itally (I.E. harbor freight, costco, generic welders) and it sucks, it can't weld worth a crap...Neither can I but at least it I do a better job when it is a better welder. So I say hold out for a good 220. Check your local Craigslist and I bet you can find a killer used welding outfit for a great price. Just my 2cents

Well I was doing precisly just that. I heard it skimming just fine and was just powering through muddy rutted trails. But then I got myself into a non mud predicument But that story will come later.

I don't notice any difference in my driving/handling, so I say it is not much of a wind catch Its a 1992 duel port EJ22 with a SACHS XT6 clutch, pressure plate, and pilot bearing. And custom exhaust from the "headers" back.

I installed my skid plate. See thread here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=898366#post898366

OK so a little more progress. Been mainly having fun driving it, but have not offroaded it yet because I had no skid plate. So this week I got the metal bent and then made a mount for it to hook up to the bumper. It came out nice I think. Goes clear back to about 3inches away from the tranny cross member. It ties into the motor cross member as well as the bumper Now to get out to the ORV park and see what this thing can do. Going to go open diff first to get of feel for things, then will put in the "Lincoln" locker and do a compare and contrast. P.S. No the cardboard isn't because its cold, its covering the license plate for the pics.

Yes, but no. I know a very well established forum member (forum wise not monitary) who did it with a hand drill and a 12 pack. And didn't even get started until about beer 6 His came out fine and he beat the living day lights out of them on the trails for 4 years.

Well thats not quite what I ment.. I knew the hood would open..so does mine... Its getting your fingers under, up and over and in to the little flippy thingy to release the hood the rest of the way. Bumper gets in the way every time...even worse now that I have a license plate mounted to it. :-\

Ok "Phiz" here is how I did. Since its seems that your not getting a direct answer to your direct question. I first nocked out the two studs that need to be removed off of an old drum. The I bolted the drum up to the 6 lug rim (90 Isuzu tropper) and used what is called an oversized lug nut....(because it seems that the stock subie ones sink to far into the counter sink hole and start hitting the socket edges.) Next I used a 9/16 transfer punch (not to be confused with a center punch)and gave it a good couple whacks with the hammer thus leaving a "center punch" mark on the part that needs to be drilled. Unbolted the drum and proceeded to the next rim unitil they were all done. *** NOTE this proseedure is done from the back side of the rim **** Once that was done on all 5 rims I then proceeded to mount the rim in my drill press (this took some rigging but the key was to make sure the rim was level and secure). I used a 9/16th drill bit and put the press on the lowest rpm setting (200rpm I think) Just used good ol' penetrating spray and proceeded drilling while giving the bit a coiple of shots of spray now and again. *** NOTE this proceedure is done from the backside of the rim *** Once that was done. I flipped the rim over and mounted up my 1/60th counter sink. I used a "stock" hole as a guide to set the depth of my drill press. I then proceeded to counter sink the two holes per rim. I would stop just short of the depth gauge lock down on the press and do a quick lug nut check, and see if it needen some more sinking or not...usually it did...but I just did not want to take too much out from the get go. Also after each counter sink I placed a lug nut in it real quick to see if it "looked" ok. If it did I went to the next hole. *** NOTE this process is perform from the front of the rim *** Once you are all done, clean the rims off and paint if desired. Then mount as mentioned before. Use the "stock" holes to center the rim and the drilled out ones to aid in clamping force. Again I bought "oversized" lug nuts...(the bevel is biger and wider, but the thread angle is the same) to fit the countersinks better...I am a perfectionist too Mount and enjoy. *** NOTE *** how I determined I needed a 9/16 transfer punch and a 1/60 counter sink, was I took the a rim, drum, stud, and lug nut to the machinist parts supplier and explained what I was doing, and he/we then proceeded to get the correct bit and counter sink for the job. So you know its correect *** Hope this helps

Nice work, But I noticed your "grill" peice is real close to the hood line. Good luck getting your hood open with it that close. Just saying, because I have the same "thing" going on with my bumper and I have opted to re-design that part so that I can open my hood and alos have it be be a different esthitic look.

...Also wasn't the big difference between the the GL and GL10 was that the GL10 was a turbo? just asking/saying.

I just bolted to the tranny side and then gound them down in place. The did it to the engine side. The labeled the bolts as to which ones go to which hole.

"We" (by we I mean us drag racers) use NOS to spool up the larger turbos...but this also cools the air down alot. Also Like mentioned before, just run a sprayer in fron of the IC which is activated by a manual switch. Some of "us" run the water to a dry ice chamber to super cool it. But what you would want to do is run the air through a IC that has seperate vains for ac...which I think that lousy, crappy, shouldn't be making vehicles of a company mentioned (I can't even say their name ) was experimenting with.

makes sense.. Show us some picks of when its done. and on the way back together.

Here is what I had done to mine. I have a friend who has am exhaust shop and has no problems lookign the other way when it comes to cats. Since the photos were taken I have had him run the exhaust to the back..that was anoise/law issue. I guess exhaust is not aloowed to exit by a door. Thats not a door officer, it's a rollover emergancy escape hatch Mine is lifted so goes up and over the trans. we used 2in pipe Oh its an 85 GL/and EJ22 conversion I bet if you made your way over here I could "hook you up" Hey where did the "cats" go up and over Just dump right there...Keep it simple..right.

Ok but how are you going to tighten the adapter plate to the bell housing and still mount the trans to the engine? Because if you put studs in the engine side then you need to run nuts on the adpater plate side which will then create a gap between the engine and trans :-\ Or are your just going to try and get the same thread pitch and diameter bolt to go through the enging and into the adapter plate...those ware some big bolts I say. And then you will not have any room at all for the the other bolts that need to go from adapterplate to engine. One thing I have learned from doing my conversion is keep it simple as possible. Everytime I tried to over think it it bit me in the but and some times cost me a lot of money. Just a thought/question