SmashedGlass

Someone on here has to have changed one before...

How hard is it (1988 GL wagon)? I have one that is shattered from the PO, only thing holding it together is the window tint lol.

What I'm interested in, is the EUDM corner lights! Like these: Can you get them?

Thanks for the input Edrach, that's what I'll go with sometime soon.

...can you get her out of state and get the work done? I'm so glad I don't live in California; beautiful place to visit, but the state gov't there is so Draconian.

I'll check those plugs tomorrow, thanks. (damn, it was a pain getting those panels back in place too, too much extra crap shoved up there).

I've noticed that mine comes on as soon as the ignition is in accessory, whether it's been running or sitting for days; I believe it should not come on until needed? And today while messing with the Sube, for awhile it suddenly wouldn't come on with the ignition on, then went back to doing so (hadn't been driven since yesterday, and temps were a mild 63F outside).

Today I reinstalled all my dash under panels, then proceeded to remove my center console to clean the mysteries-of-science off of it..... There was enough dog hair under it stuck to the carpet and everything else to re-fur a chihuahua, a pen, more loose change, unidentifiable stickyness, a lid from a petroleum product, hardware from who knows what, pine needles...... in short, a mess. If not for lack of tell tale toilet leavings, I would've sworn a very small squirrel had made a penthouse out of the inside of the console. Other than that, just made some more small progress on tallying all the little repairs it needs (like new corner light sockets, this time with working lock tabs).

not in my experience my Hankook iPikes have most of their studs still in place (even though the tread is now dangerously low). makes an interesting sound on pavement, much like kittens on crack scrambling through the kitchen across linoleum flooring.

well......Colorado is sorta square. Rectilinear.

So they're a bit too short (45mm=1 3/4"+). Oh well. Durability of these pins wasn't an issue; they're the ones we use on our armored tracked vehicles like the M1 and the Bradley :-p

That's where my thinking was heading on the oil Miles. My 5sp d/r shifts just fine (well, it's a *tad* notchy going into second, but I'm used to that being the case with all older trannies-Nissan, Toy, and Subes I've owned). Would be doing it for a 'preventative measure'. And Miles.....GO KOMETS!!!

How long are the 3/16" roll pins in the half shafts? I found 3/16" pins at work, in 1" and 1-1/2" lengths and thinking of grabbing them as 'insurance' for when I do the bearings....

They're all the same (175/70R13 Winter iPikes). It's fine now and I now know better lol. I had driven it a few weeks ago up a short uphill paved road near my house in 4Lo to check it's function and it slipped right back into 2wd no problem is all, just kinda had me wondering yesterday. What about opinions on refilling the case with expen$$$ive fluid?

Reattached the rubber gate and metal frame for the d/r lever in the center console using a heated screw driver for the plastic posts that still existed, and super glue and self-tapping screws for the ones that didn't. Then, for ************es and gigglies, washed the 5sp shift knob with 90% alcohol* and painted in the gate pattern with red enamel *Isopropyl alcohol works surprisingly well to clean vinyl and plastics covered in years of layered mangy peoples paw grease, I must say.

...and it took driving about a block and a half in 4Hi until it would shift back into 2wd. Rocking backward and forward wouldn't unlock the 4wd. Is this normal? I'm also thinking perhaps I might want to drain and refill the tranny with some Redline or Royal Purple prior to Ol' Man Winter squeezing his fist around the Rockies. Would this be a good idea?

How about a roll call of all the old EA owners along the Front Range? I see plenty of them in my neck of the woods, but haven't met anyone from here around town, nor seen anyone who's actually serious about their old Sube. Be nice to get together and pool experience and work. I'll start: Colorado Springs (smack in the middle of downtown), 3rd Sube, second EA.

.....you forgot to wash the mower :-p

Welcome to Colorado! I don't know about waaaay up in Boulder, but down in Denver there are two upullandpay.com locations, as well as one down in my neck of the woods in Colorado Springs. I like them because they're about the cheapest for prices, and the searchable inventory online is a big plus.

Ah, thanks. It's a Dynomax muffler, they're fairly inexpensive. I'll have to grab one soon.

Care to share which model of Thrush muff that is?

Just some general advise sought... Like many older subes I've looked under, mine is a weeping mess underneath. Haven't gotten the engine cleaned off enough to tell exactly what all is leaky, but I'll assume just about everything (aside from the HG) to include the oil filter mount gasket. So the questions are: 1)How hard is it to do all of the seals and approx. how long of a job with the engine still in the car (incl. oil pan, exhaust obviously dropped)? 2)How hard is it and how long would it take to remove the engine to do an out-of-car re-seal? Time is a constraint for me as I do not have a garage at my place and have to rely on other friends with single-car garages, which means I can't have a disassembled car in a garage for more than a week at the outside, and also have to work around my and their work schedules.

No music while working, I'm out on the street doing my repairs and have no boom-box. Just the sweet sweet sounds of my own voice cursing and screaming while underneath the Sube

Well, I don't think I'd drive without them on either (not where I live) but IMHO, since they are plastic, one could possibly drill a small 'weep' hole at dead bottom on each cover to help prevent crud/liquids build up. My 2 cents, minus inappropriate taxation.

I sprayed a bit of coffee out of my nose at "expensive noises" :-p GD, Timken does in fact still manufacture bearings; we get them for all of our military equipment such as the M1 Abrams, M2/M3 Bradley, M113, etc. But it could be that they've moved to only making their own brand as for heavy applications(?)