SmashedGlass

I quieted down my exhaust, for the time being, from where the left manifold had cracked off the cat after the PO bottomed it out (and did a ************ay job of re-welding it) using a)one Campbells Chunky Potato & Bacon Soup can b)two worm clamps and c)copious amounts of Versachem Muffler Weld, under the can and over the edges. Is working for now, hopefully will last til I beg/borrow/rob $160-$190 for a new Y pipe/cat.

I almost fell out of my chair, and spewed coffee dangerously close to my laptop. That was the funniest 8 seconds I've seen all week.

I'll do that sometime just for giggles. I do have the schematics out of the Mitchell books and can sort it that way.

That's some good info. Wasn't aware of the difference in gearing.... guess I can stop lusting for one of those and just be happy with my D/R in the wagon :-p

because the sealed bearings are more maintenance-free, and from what I've read up are a recommended 'upgrade'.

Just wanted to know for certain if the following sealed bearings are the ones I've read about on here before plunking cash. The ones I got from Autozone (which online showed as sealed) turned out not to be sealed and had to be returned. http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit316

Have you checked the condition and gapping of your plugs? Mine would occasionally bog on acceleration under 3k rpm just after I bought it; pulled the plugs and they looked fine but the gaps were all over the place (one gap was all the way out to .067+ !). Gapped them all back to .043 and much mo' bettah now. Though it does sound much like a lawn mower with the broken y-pipe

Pulled and inspected the spark plugs.... PO didn't bother gapping them at all, they ranged from .036ish to one at a whopping .065 gap!! Properly gapped, anti seized and installed=mo' bettah runnins now.

Yeah, that's the problem; I won't have that kind of cash for a little while. Anyhow, here's the extent of the damage, we're (have a friend who can weld exhausts) trying to assess if it can be repaired with a weld or by welding in a small section of pipe from the local parts store (cat side right): It looks like the PO bottomed out on the left side, hitting the left manifold on something, which initially would've caused a crack. The only thing holding it together and keeping it semi quiet was the heat shield....as I discovered when I removed it to plug the "small leak" I felt :-\

But jeebus are the replacements expensive! I haven't found a front exhaust section (new) for less than about $200.... Anyone have one off an EA82 spfi, 4wd?

More joy found courtesy the PO..... Every spark plug was gapped differently, from .036 all the way to one with a whopping .067 gap Regapped all to .043, and she runs a bit better already.

Well, I have new bearings and seals, just haven't gotten around to doing them because..... Now I'm wondering if it's just the damn tires. They're Hankook Winter iPikes (studded...or what's left of the studs lol), and pretty worn down. I did swap tires around and I still get the sound. Noticed that the way the tread blocks on those iPikes are formed could possibly set up a rythmic growly sound, and it might be possible that the bearings are in fact fine. Any comments from the panel of experts? As I said before, it isn't really noticeable until you get above 30+ mph.

Lol, I have a card for a free tow from a local company they handed out to me during this years Pikes Peak Hill Climb Festival downtown.

Yep, basically what you did with your repair was close the circuit. Permanent like lol. Plenty of Sube's in the yards, shouldn't be a problem finding yourself a new sensor.

Dave, you should sell these!

sort of a double post, as I already jotted this under "what have you done..lately?", but... If one does not have the requisite skills to apply window tint themselves, and apparently even less skill at removing it once damaged, said person should NOT apply a DIY tint kit and instead take it to a pro, fer krissakes. Just spent the better part of a rather warm morning hour razor blading all of the residue on the rear windows from the PO's piss-poor tint neé tint removal job. At least my glass is now clear

Went out this morning prior to taking of on some adventures (well.... to go to the café for some quality coffee lol) and decided to just quickly wipe down the windows. Which spiraled out of control and became a razor blading session of the glass in order to fix the ugliness that was the PO's piss-poor attempt at DIY window tinting (purple, no less) and even more piss-poor attempt at removing it from the the rear windows. I now have mildly nice looking glass in Subie Q.

Thanks for the info Red. I'll try that next time and just carry some spare fuel in a Jerrycan around the time I hit E.

I didn't even notice them the first time I read this thread!

You should clarify if it only happens with one door, or all of them. Haven't had it happen to me, but if it's just one door your symptoms would seem to indicate that: --Something like the door sensor is plugged in backwards (hard to do, but possible). --There's a short in one of those wires to the sensor. --Sensor itself has gone weird. If it's every door that does it, could possibly be the seat belt timer.

I suppose that's one way to test it, lol. I had to give in yesterday morning and fuel up as I was supposed to make a trip across town. Didn't fancy running out along the way, and the needle had just lined up perfectly with the E mark... still no light.

Yeah, I grabbed one from the P'n'P a few weeks ago from a 1g Legacy... still scratching the brain pan on how best to mount it. As low as possible is all I have figured so far

Question is, do all the GL's have them? Mine is an '88 GL Wagon D/R with the full analog gauge cluster, recently acquired. My fuel needle is almost touching the E tick and still no low fuel light has come on.....:-\

the amazing thing is, after mostly sitting it's whole life, on Staten Island of all places........ It took you 6500mi to BRC and back! A little beast of a car!!! :banana:

Thanks for the info McBrat. I'm not getting crazy with mine, just want to be able to get up into the mountains here in Colorado during weekends along some of the logging/mining/gas co. roads and some light off-road.