s'ko

2000 OBS w rebuilt engine was driving to work this morning & the car cut out I have about 200 miles on the engine was not working it hard. I think I heard a screeching noise before it cut off. not 100% certain b/c the radio was on. now the engine will turn over, but it's a fast rotation. pulled t-belt cover & the belt is on. can't tell if the timing jumped. everything was running great before it happened will b able 2 give more info when i have my tools. this sucks BW

$350 for getting them to the US. Sounds like reasonable amount. Does the shipping from seattle to wherever need to be paid as the same time? BW

130 miles and counting on the motor 1st highway drive. At 70 mph, the engine was purring at 3000 rpm. 80 mph, the engine was at 3500 rpm. I use to be over 4000 rpm at 80 mph. No verdict yet on gas mileage, I have about 2/3 of a tank left. Overall the impression is great. Now to somehow speed up the next 370 miles. ECU is throwing P0420, but that’s to be expected b/c of the high flow exhaust.

im a moron. on the initial drive that prompted the original post, the throttle cable worked it self loose. when i pull the battery & looked in the engine bay, i tightened the cable so that the throttle was slightly open when the car started again, the ECU was trying to make sense of what was going on with the throttle. It kept trying to lower the idle & that's what caused P2507 to Show

pulled out me OBD2 reader and it is showing p1507. Idle Control. Searched and found a boat load of info on the error, having to do with either the neutral switch and some other issues. I had a prior problem with the main engine harness plugs being wet and contaminated when I installed the engine. I have the battery pulled and the plugs unplugged. I am trying to track down a can of compressed air used for keyboard cleaning to see if I can't get it blown dry. Will update when I have more news.

ok here's one 4 the engine gurus this is on the hi comp ej25 motor i am driving 2 work on stop & go traffic with the car in neutral engine starts idling @ 1200-1500 rpm. if i blip the throttle then it will rise & stay up there. i drove into the parking garage & it started 2 keep rising. i pulled the battery wires and left it so that the ECU will reset any thoughts?

yeah, it's still interference. will be driving the 30 mile trip 2 work tomorrow

Here are some info about a high compression motor I just put together for my OBS Parts list: Phase 1 EJ25 Shortblock w/stock pistons & rods (rebuilt) Phase 2 EJ22 heads (120k) Cometic head gasket w/100mm bore. Phase 2 EJ22 Intake manifold Phase 2 EJ22 engine harness and sensors Assembly: The engine pull was pretty standard. EJ22 came out and was beheaded. Engine sat for a year w/minimal use & the coolant came out looking rust colored. Heads were cleaned off and then assembled onto the freshly rebuilt EJ25 short block. Heads were torqued down according to the FSM for non-turbo engines. (we’ll see how this holds up with the higher compression) The crank timing gear had to be replaced with the phase 2 gear, b/c there were more tabs than the phase 1 gear. The gear slid right onto the crankshaft w/no issues. The woodruff key is in the same spot and lined up perfectly. The sensors and the cam shaft timing pulleys from the EJ22 phase 2 heads were used. The knock sensor was taken from the EJ22 and put onto the EJ25 stock block. The temp sensor for the Phase 2 needs to be remove and put onto the Phase 1 water tube b/c it was 3 pins as opposed to the Phase 1’s 2 pins. The temp sensor on the Phase 1 can be removed and plugged. I left it in so in the future I can put in another temp gauge. I used the power steering pump from the Phase 2 motor b/c there was a sensor on the wiring harness to determine if the power steering fluid was low. All the other accessories bolted right up with no problems. Timing was set according to the EJ22 specs. The phase 1 short block is designed to fit onto the EJ tranny at 4 points. There are two bolts up top and the two studs at the bottom. The Phase 2 short block has 6 points. There are two bolts up top. One bolt at the bottom of the starter and a bolt near the set pin. Then there are the two studs at the bottom. In order to secure the starter, I took a bolt and cut the end off of it. Plan was to make the bolt into a stud at the bottom starter hole. I used JB Weld to secure the bolt into the hole and left a 1 inch of thread to secure the starter. Impressions: So far I have less than 100 miles on it. Once I get past the 500 mile mark, I plan to test the compression to see where it is at. Should have tested the compression before the rebuild to get a before and after. Butt dyno tells me it’s faster, but then again, I have been driving a EJ22T RX before this. Future plan: EJ D/R box 2 inch lift.

pending better 1/2 approval, I could probably make a cannon-ball run on a weekend. I have an awesome work schedule that let's me take every other friday off. Rent a van or a small uhaul trailer. Drive and deliver the trannies and fly home or maybe drive back, depending on what I rent. It will give me a chance to take the newly finished hi-comp OBS and stretch it's legs. My next days off would be Oct 9th, 23rd, Nov 6th, 20th, Dec 18th. If I rent a Uhaul 10ft van, it's $958 dollars for the 1 way rental plus fuel, a small 4X8 trailer is $234.00. I haven't found a place that will do a 1 way cargo van rental. But sounds like it is going to be a trailer, What is the weight per transmission? Per the specs, the towing capacity of the OBS is 1500 lbs. I figure I can get 2-3 trannies inside the rear area and then get the rest onto the trailer. Will keep this option open as I look into the details. BW

ok took some denatured alcohol & washed the main engine harness plugs. it now runs 100% better than before. It idles smoothly and will accelerate smoothly. Highest I took the tach was 5k but it did not cut power. The CEL came on while driving it and it read p0340 and p0341 so something weird is still happening with the cam angle sensor. But the main thing to to is that the engine runs and i can actually feel the increase in power that the franken motor adds. Now to get rid of that pesky CEL. BW

Pulled t-belt covers and inspected timing. It's still set right. someone on NASIOC mentioned that he had similar problems after a high comp build swap and it ended up being the tensioner. swapped out sensor w/a known good one, removed the intake manifold and inpected the wires. did not find anything squished or cut. Re-wrapped some of the wires that had the tape separating. Still runs like poop. I bought a new T-belt kit and will see if that changes anything. Will be cleaning the harness w/some alcohol too. BW

no need to apologize. In some ways it's true. They can be huge money pits. Fun to drive and really unique but that unique needs tends to make it hard to maintain. Parts are worth more than $800.

I read that one article from another thread about P0340. I have the crank gear from the Phase 2 engine and I am using the Phase 2 heads w/cam gears. There is a huge difference between the number of tabs on the phase 2 OBS crank gear and the one on the phase 1 one. In terms of it not lining up the same, they both has the woodruff key and at TDC, the woodruff key on both pointed in the same direction. I agree with it going into limp mode. Plan to remove the t-belt covers and have a look at timing and take the sensor off. Will also be checking the engine harness to see if anything is being pinched or if there are any exposed wires. BW

ok removed the sensor & drove it up & down the block ran like poop between 1& 2k aftef that i was able to go past the 3.5k mark & it accelerated somewhat smoothly

negative on the alternator. NASIOC suggests I look into the sensor and also the timing belt tensioner. Will do that this Friday. BW

did some research on p0340 seems like a bad alternator will send out signals that can confuse the ECU my friend's uncle took apart the alternator b/c i made a comment about it being a shame to put a dirty alternator in the middle on a nice clean engine will test 2 see if he damaged the alternator

I just put a EJ25 /22, hybrid motor into my 2000 OBS and I am getting P0340, Camshaft sensor error. I used a phase 1 EJ25 short block and the phase 2 EJ22 heads from the OBS engine. Head gaskets are cometic. The are about twice as thick as the stock EJ22 head gaskets. I replaced the Phase 1 crankshaft timing gear w/the Phase 2 gear so the tabs would line up. Car idles well. When I try and drive it, it will hesitate badly between 1k and 2k and then it will smooth out until about 3.5k and then fuel will cut. It is also running super rich. Original EJ22 had a damaged bearing in the shortblock, but it ran ok before the swap. Timing is set correctly. I am using the phase 1 Crank angle sensor. I pulled the connector and cleaned it w/soap and upon start up, there was no CEL. Then I revved the engine slightly and the p0340 came on. Does anyone know if the thicker head gaskets cause the code to be thrown? Other opinions? Thanks BW

Sweet. looks like you have the resources lined up.

If I get a house I might be able to store trannies until proper shipping is arranged by the buyers. I would also be interested in one of these.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3163356 contact this dude. he just did what you are asking. Good luck and post lots and lots of pictures.

My family is planning a trip to go to Whistler this winter. My wife and I are thinking of rolling up there to join them. Will be leaving Friday after thanksgiving and leaving Dec 4 to go back. What points of interest are good to see? I figure on the way up we will take it nice and slow and on the way back we will probably drive straight through. Will be taking the OBS so no real worries about weather. Per Mapquest, it’s a 23 hour drive so we will most likely break it up into 2 legs. I figure the ½ point is between Redding and Medford. Are there any good places to stay in that area? Any good drives that I can take in the area that are open and accessible in winter? Any sights worth stopping at? Thanks for the input.

x2 that's phizinza's BRAT. iirc he sold it

twitch was that for both parts of your claim, the medical and the property damage?

Before the BRAT met it's demise, I was working on a shifter set up using an inline ball joint from McMaster Carr. I was going to drill through the current shifter pivot hole so that the inline ball joint can be secured and then I was going to modify the existing shifter by cutting off the pivot point off and welding a tube w/a nut at the bottom. For the shift rod collar can be replaced by a 1/2 OD schedule 40 pipe. you will need to grind the seam weld to get it to fit over the shift rod. There is still a little slop there, but it's a lot tighter than the stock worn out shift rod collar. Here is the stock number for the inline joint 8412K12. BW

Insurance called me and they want to offer $1,300 or so for the total loss and the buy back would be about $150.00 This is for the loss of the vehicle and not the medical portion. I have about $100 out of pocket for ER expenses and I have $280 tow yard bill. I realize that Ed got them for almost 4,000, but his was in really nice condition. Mine is mechanically good, but cosmetically it is rough. Should I try and establish market value here or just take the money. If I were to sell it private party before the accident, I probably would get maybe $2000 for it. thoughts opinions?