s'ko

What about a EG33 in a BRAT??? :burnout: :burnout:

Regarding the XT6 axles, he mentioned the doing a 5 lug EJ conversion in his first posts. merely addressing this BW

no. but you will be working with over 30 lbs of wire. Think of your harness like a combination of different components. Engine, tranny (for an auto), lights, accessories (HVAC, radio, wipers etc), power (fuses, alternator) You already have lights, accessories and power from your Loyale. So you just need the EJ engine and tranny portions of the harness. You asked how hard is the swap. Mechanically, you will be diving into some new territory with the auto EJ swap into an EA. Tranny mounts might be a challenge but not to difficult. Front axles are not hard, you just have to keep the same spline count. IIRC they are 25 spline inner cups. If you go w/EJ fronts, then you will need XT6 axles b/c the EJ axles are too long. EJ rear hubs will not work w/o some fab skills. The engine wiring is straight forward. The only thing that is different is the 4eat wiring, but that is not as hard as the mechanical portions of the swap. you will have to change the rear diff if the final drives are not the same. Otherwise you can get a drive shaft made to fit the EJ tranny to the EA rear diff.

I agree. The EJ BRAT project I built my own b/c I was unemployed and had a ton of time and some scrap metal sitting around. The EJ22T RX I used the RGuyver adapter. this is more for laughs and giggles. Once again, if you think about the needs of the adapter plate it's not rocket science. Plate fills in the 1/2 inch difference between the EJ bell housing and the EA input shaft. Bottom two bolts are the same. Top bolts are offset a little. Use of a scrap bell housing will take care of the EJ set of the holes. For the EA side you just have to drill and tap the other hole. Re: tranny on the ground off the side of the road, you have way more problems than a POS adapter plate if this happens. Like I said. This is an alternative to the vendor provided adapters and its a lot easier than making one out of scratch. Don't go out buying an old EJ block for this purpose. If someone could measure an EA bellhousing and see if there is a 1/2 of material that can be cut off, then you could take that piece off of your engine that you are replacing. Once again, times being what they are, i thought it would be something to help save some money while doing a swap. BW

What CEL codes are you getting? you problem might not be the fuel pump, the SPFI pump should be adequate to handle the fuel needs.

Have EJ swaps been common for that long? Wow..... time sure does pass. BW

another tip is to make a couple of copies of the wiring diagrams. That way you will always have backups should coffee spill on them. :-\ Get masking tape and a sharpee and mark wires like tach or 10amp or whatever. For the connectors, I would find out what they were on the diagram and mark it with a number on the diagram and then take the tape and mark it with tape on the connector. It's also easier to deal with if you seperate the wires into main branches. The Air flow sensor, o2 sensor can be branched out so can the ignition and fuel relays. Cutting a wire and resoldering it to get it routed cleaner also helps when you are ready to get it installed. Most importantly, make sure that you mark the wires coming from the ECU. Those are the most important thing you need to worry about. Regarding the VSS I was able to tap into the reed sensor that you spoke of. I am not sure if there was a need, but it work and I don't have a CEL. This is on an EJ18 OBDI good luck

The bottom two holes in the EJ and the EA are the same. Take your newly cut piece and secure it to the EA tranny w/a 10mm bolt. Then take a transfer punch and mark the hole needed for the EA tranny. The EJ top holes and tranny pin mark are already there. I guess it helps if you understand how the purpose of the adapter and where the holes need to be.

want to do an EJ swap and hard up for cash? If you have an old useless EJ block and a recip. saw and a few hours of time.... Cut the bell housing off of the EJ block and use that as the adapter. Picture of the finished product pending. I am not sure if this will work with an EA block, but I would assume that this would work as well. BW

That's what I have in the front of my BRAT. I used XT6 hubs on the front and an EA82 crossmember and control arms. (mostly b/c I wanted the power steering) I am sure that you could use EJ hubs as well. The fronts will need to have the control arms lengthen so that you don't get camber like this \--/ IF you go wheeling, make sure that you keep some spare axles around b/c the fwd 23 spline axles are not stocked at your local parts store. They are special order items. BW

after reading some of the responses, I want to specify that this would be a design or idea for the front end. Monstaru, post up some info regarding the idea that you found for long travel that would be great. The 4 link idea in the rear is great. This would eliminate the wheel travelling in an arch around the torsion bar mount. The front wheels travel in an arch around the control arm mounts on the engine crossmember. High angle CVs like the ones from the Arizona sight are good for that application, but are cost prohibitive. This long travel axles idea is a backyard temporary fix for more front suspension travel. In order to truly get high travel and keep 4wd, we will need to use a longer control arms. Longer control arms means figuring out how to remount shocks or a strut and of course longer axles. BW

EJ18 BRAT. EA81 4spd D/R tranny w/dual stick mod 5 lug swap w/215/65/16 wheels MPG 26 in 2wd low range, can burn out front tires Cruising at 80 mph tach is at 4500 rpms and there is lots of power to pass.

I was talking with Subyrally the other day and bemoaning the lack of travel for the front and the high cost of splined stretch axles. He then said that he remembers seeing a axles made on either Trucks! or Xtreme 4X4 on Spike TV that was made from two pieces of square DOM. The smaller piece was just bid enough to fit into the inside of the large tubing. The took the axle ends and welded them to the pieces of tubing. On the trail, it was the welds that broke. For our applications, you could take a square piece of DOM, and weld the the DOJ sprocket to it. Then you can sprocket and the CV joint to it. Not sure which is easier. Seems to me that there is a lot of chatter both ways. I am more concerned about getting the axles for the front. The rears are a different story. Whatcha think?

speaking with full bias, EJ swapped RX is the way to go. The one I got was minus engine so the swap was pretty much a given. Keeping it original, I would atleast slap on an intercooler. Other than that have fun. BW

I assume he's headed towards Los Angeles? There are a handful of locals, I am going to VA for today, and will be back om Friday. If he needs to car looked at send me a PM. I have minimal experience w/the EA82s but I can check the basics. BW

I have a EJ18 in a BRAT w/the EA81 4 speed dual range tranny, 3.9 final drive on 225-60-16s, that about an 1 1/2 inches over stock for the impreza tire size or 6.5% off. It gets about 26 MPG and it's pretty petty. Granted the BRAT is light, but I have no problems scooting around even with engines and other stuff loaded in the back. BW

additional diagnosis. Bad main ground to rear of the engine. The thick ground wire from the battery to the starter bolt was loose and causing intermittent shorts with the vibration of the car driving. YEAH. BW

hey... that happened once... Now that I got the front axles in a shallowe angle and the stretchy rear axles, I am all set. No axles pulling me out or exploding and leaving me dead in the water. Besides, I wouldn't want to go camping with you in the future b/c now you have two little girls who will HOWL like coyotes in the middle of the night. BW

I vote for removing the torsion bar, moving the rear diff forward and then running axles straight into a sprocket that powers the rear wheels by a chain. The chain would be housed inside trailing arms. This would elimate the rear axles being the limit to suspension travel. kind of like this stuff. http://www.chaindriverail.com/

spent some time today working on the car. The error codes are coming from moisture shorts. The harness is pushed through the body through the driver side fender and I did not waterproof the area well. when it dries up I will take some sealant and get it sealed up nice and tight. BW

The wire is long enough to reach the stereo when you say "weld" do you mean splice? Will go to radio snack tomorow to see what they have

so i finally got around to putting a radio in the rx and i found that the antenna wire plug was cut. is there an easy way to replace the wire or do i have to pull apart the dash to get it routed?

I have been having problems with my 92 EJ22T. It would crank with out starting for about 2 mins or so and then it would start. I had a friend crank while I checked the engine during one of these episodes and found that there was no spark from the coil pack. I pulled the following CEL codes 13 Cam Angle sensor 14-17 injectors 1-4 21- Coolant temp sensor 22- Knock sensor 23- Airflow meter circuit 24- bypass air control valve 32- O2 sensor 41- Air/Fuel ratio control system 45- Pressure sensor duty solenoid. Car runs fine once it’s started. It will drive about 10 miles or so at highway conditions and then the CEL will light up. If I cut the engine off and then start it again, the CEL goes away. I don’t believe all of these sensors would go out or go bad all at once. There must be a common thing that is causing the error. Hopefully, it's not the ECU. Any ideas on where I should start? Thanks BW

I have a PDF with the diagrams for the 1987 STD/GL/DL. PM me with your e-mail. BW

Gary, I used the OBS to get a signature loan for the invitro. So I can't get rid of it. :-\ So after reading your posts, Here is what I am thinking. 1) take the 2.2 out of the OBS, diassemble, bring it to a machine shop and have them inspect the crank. Get bearings and rings and rebuild the short block. 2) take tranny apart and have the synchro replaced. now the question it what to do with the 2.5 I just pulled. BW