s'ko

yes. you can use teh 81 flywheel. I did in the bed, or if you lift it, it might go back in the stock place Depends on how good you are with reading diagrams. it's not that hard, but there are a few who will do it for you. myself being one of them. none. you are keeping the stock BRAT wiring and then using the EJ wiring like a stand-alone engine harness i think so. depending on how hard you drive the 81 is ok. I have an EJ18 in my BRAT and with 29 inch tires I could still do front wheel burnouts. probably want to get the y-pipe, cat and resonator in there otherwise it will be pretty noisy. easier to drop the engine in, but if you have the ability, you could raise the engine/tranny in there together. you are only replacing the soft lines. So it's basically underneath the hood and at the fuel pump. If should be located underneath the steering column. you should do fine. Just remember if you are doing your own wiring, take it slow and make sure you are cutting the right wires. After you are done you will end up with roughly 1/4 of the wires left in the ECU harness. research what Crockettbrat just did and you can also search for my BRAT build and phizinza as well. Have fun. BW

That and take responsibility for your part of any problem. Basically own your mess and let her know that you are accepting responsiblity. She may not follow suit w/owning her mess, but eventually she will come around. ohh and really count the cost and accept each other's shortcomings. Since you guys have been together for a long time, you probably know each other's quirks and characters. I am sure there are things that bug you about your fiance's and like wise things that you do that bug her. Those things will not go away b/c you are married. I am not saying conceed to those things and chalk it up as "well, that's her and there's nothing I can do about it". You need to realize that this is what you are getting into and vocalize your irritation or annoyance but then have some grace b/c you knew she would be like this going into the marriage. my wife had to accept the fact that I was going to be a "greasemonkey" and wrench hours on end in the garage. She doesn't necesarily like it, but she let's me do it and if I get carried away, she'll remind me. I knew going into the marriage that she was a packrat. Apt still looks like a warehouse after after almost 2 years of being there. Now I get firm and tell her that things need to get organized, but I TRY to not get too critical with her. (I usually fail) But then I have to go back and apologize and accept that I knew going in she was a cluttery person. Anyways.... (end Dr Phil moment) TAKE A LOT OF MENTAL PHOTOGRAPHS. YOUR WEDDING FESTIVITIES WILL BE A BLUR AND IT'S IMPORTANT TO CONCIOUSLY REMEMBER THINGS AND FREEZE THEM IN YOUR MIND. BEST ADVICE THAT WAS GIVEN TO ME. BW

alrighty.... so I had a really close encounter on the way to work today where I was stopping and my brakes locked up and I almost tagged the car in front of me. Aside from keeping more distance between me and the car in front of me, I would like to avoid the whole wheels locking up event in the future. How hard is it to retrofit ABS into an EA car? I realize that the rears might be a challenge b/c there is no way to bolt in EJ stuff. Since we are already talking custom application, it may not even have to be an ABS unit from a subaru. My understanding of how ABS works is that there are sensors on the wheels and it tells the computer if a wheel is locked up. The vehicle speed sensor tells that computer that the car is moving and it pulses the brakes so that the wheel does not lock up. thoughts? BW

stock BRAT cable should work fine. Congrats. I just got 6000 miles on my swap and only regret not doing it sooner. BW

Yeah.... obviously you wouldn't be doing that. bolt the EA81 tranny to an F1 engine and it might work..... In terms of numbers, the table helps to explain why I was able to drive the EJ18 BRAT w/a 4spd d/r tranny with 205/60/16 tires on the freeway traffic mostly in 4 gear low. 20 mph 1148 rpm 30 mph 1721 rpm 40 mph 2295 rpm 50 mpg 2869 rpm 60 mph 3443 rpm 70 mph 4017 rpm 80 mph 4590 rpm

Hello peoples.... Wanted to get your opinion on something. As you guys know, the RX is pretty much done. Got an exhaust put on it last Saturday and it can rumble with all you WRX guys now. I am trying to decide if I should go hood scoop or hood vents. The scoop I kinda envision looking like this... BTW here is what sit underneath that hood EJ20 w/a little FMIC in the spare tire area. hood vents I am still looking for something that is suitable. One idea I had was to get a heater vent from Home depot and install it. The other idea was to cut a slit in the hood kinda like this but the other way so air can go in. The overall effect is to get something that is sleeper looking, but will cool the TMIC. Any ideas? THanks BW

no, those figures are for a 205/60/16 tire. That is what is on my BRAT. remember you have to change the numbers up to your tire size. BW

I just finished this table and put it into the USRM. It's a table to help you determine your top speed taking into account tire size, tranny and hi-lo ratios. at the top of the tables you can enter your desired tire size. Then go to the table that applies to the tranny that you have or want to have. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=90609 so for my RX with 205/60/13's I have a theoretical top speed of 140 mph at 6685 rpms. Doubt I would ever rev it that fast... Enjoy. BW

Here's a table that I made up for testing the top speed and accuracy of my speedometer on the RX. Hope it's helpful. You can enter the tire side desired in order to see how a certain tire will affect your speed and rpms.

Come represent for the old school crowd at the X-Games. Details here. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1557997 BW

go chux go!!!!!!!!! BW

the shortblock is compatible. There are some differences between the 91 and the 98 cam sensors. Overall I think you can just swap the shortblock out and it would work. make sure that the heads are not damaged. Another option is to take the EJ22 heads and find a good EJ25 shortblock. Make Hybrid Frankenmotor. This set up will give you a high compression motor that will be a torque monster. BW

You need to so a photo essay that has shots that are Near......far......Near......far. BTW NICE HATCH

another option is to do a hybrid motor with the EJ25 shortblock and the Ej22 heads. It will give you more torque b/c the set up is a high compression motor. You can get a set of junkyard Ej22 heads and rebuild them while the Ej25 is still good. Then when the HG give out, pull the motor, and plop the new heads onto them and put the motor back in. I am sure there are a few other things you have to do but this is a weekend swap that will definately work. Another thought is to just do the HGs on the EJ25 when they go. The newer HG are of a good design and I have heard good results after they are done. You can even go with cometic head gaskets if you really are paranoid. just my 2 cents.

body: 87 RX Coupe engine: 92 ej22T transmission: fulltime 5 speed D/R RX tranny 3.7 w/rear LSD wheels: 13" Captain America wheels WRX TMIC 3 inch downpipe Soon to come hood scoop.

ok so I got my vacuum hose hooked up to the solenoids and the diaphram. but the diff lock will not turn on. I only saw it turn on once while driving on the freeway. I forgot to turn it off. I have yet to see it again. Is there some way of testing it to see what it wrong? is there something I need to clean to make it work better? BW

do a search on a project done by mixthetoo. He was putting the entire driveline including rear subassembly from a OBS into a BRAT. I am not sure if he ever got the project done. It was definately a huge undertaking. Like people said, the rear wheels are the parts that are completely different. Renaissanceman was working on making 4X140-5x100 and 5x114 adapters not sure of whatever became of the project. I was talking to 4X4welder about possibly making the same adapters. do a search to see the two threads. Putting the EJ rear subassembly into an EA82 car would be difficult but not impossible. The mounting surfaces for the EA82 torsion bar rear suspension are flat so I would be possible to first make a subframe that bolts to the stock unibody locations and then bolt the EJ subassembly to the subframe. The subframe could also serve as lift blocks so that the EJ wheels will fit nicer in the wheel wells. Anyways, document what you do and take measurements. i would be interested in the final outcome b/c I would like to do this to the RX. BW

hmmm interesting developments.... the car developed a run away throttle. the rpms would stay at around 2k or so after the throttle is pulled. I took a look at the TPS and the painted marks were not lined up. I readjusted the sensor and it the rpms go down like it should. With the TPS set like the throttle was partially open, the engine wanted to keep fuel going into the engine b/c it thinks that it needs more fuel. This could explain the crappy mileage and the oxygen sensor. Will see if the CEL lights up and if the mileage improves. BW

will take pics this weekend. I went to lunch yesterday and I nudged injector #1. light went away. Also the gauges mysteriously fixed themselves. Will have to find the short that is causing it to go dead. On the way home, the CEL light went on again and it's the O2 sensor. This this morning, I tried to recheck the wires for the O2 sensor to make sure they were tight. Still threw o2 error. I got a bosch universal one and that is likely the reason that it's not happy. Money is tight so I can't run out and get an OEM one now. At certain time on my way to work, I tried to let it boost up past 5k rpm and it would stop at just above 4k and now let me go faster. once again like related to O2 sensor. Other times it would rev past 5k no problem. Gas mileage is at a craptastic 17 mpg. Also likely related to O2 sensor.:-\ b/c I wasn't really hitting the boost hard on the way home. Chux, thanks for the heads up on the electrical. Will probably dig into the dash sometime this weekend. RE the cocktail. I already have most of the ingredients for the mix. Last time I did it, I had to get a case of the redline stuff so it's just sitting around. On a side note boost is so addictive. BW

Check out this site. http://www.vulcantire.com/a048_t.htm?refad=Froogle2056013H Advan 048's for 60 a piece.. :burnout: :burnout: goodness

for those of your who missed the thread about the Aus Rally RX. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=89548&highlight=rally I am in the process of making a hood scoop similar to what he has on the RX. I have a metal brake and there is a company near me that sells urethane sheets. So I plan to make the hood scoop out of either some sheet metal or aluminum plate and then glue the urethane onto the scoop and shape it a little to match the curves of the EA82 body then fiberglass it. Depending on the final version, anyone interested in this? In terms of mounting the scoop, I will probably make recessed holes in the scoop so that you can secure the scoop in whatever fashion you choose (rivet or bolt) and then bondo over it or leave the holes there. Obviously you will have to cut your hood to put this on. BW

Thought i would resurrect this old thread today b/c I drove the RX to work today. I was conservative with it b/c I am still uncertain about it's reliability. The first thing that happened was I noticed that all of my gauges stopped working. volt, temp, oil pressure and fuel. I think there is a short or a blown fuse somewhere. I checked to see if the car was charging and it was so I decided to continue. About 15 mins into the ride, I get a CEL. Things are not going down to tubes so I continue on. (CEL turned out to be injector number 1) Impressions. Ohh my gosh is this thing fast. Cruising at 70 mph, the tach was set at 3k rpms. slight hiss from the blow off valve doing it's job. The TOD is still there, I will get some murphy and see if it won't go away with a treatment. Car grinds a bit down shifting into 3rd gear. Looks like I need to pour some of uncle scotty's cocktail into it. Last night I had a friend of mine bleed the brakes for me. After it was all done, we went for a spin and I showed him FT4WD low range lsd goodness and did a sweet peel out. He has a 450 HP WRX and he was pretty impressed. Things to take care of now are- 1) gauges. 2) injector error. 3) HVAC system. some reason there is a short there after I removed the dash molding to get to the cluster 4) route the BOV into the intake stream. (original set up is a bypass valve) 5) uncle scotty's cocktail 6) TOD (MMO treatment) 7) install intercooler sprayer 8) fix muffler leak 9) fabricate hood scoop. (see thread in old gen for info.) Then once I am sure that the car is running well go to the SMOG ref and get it smog. BW

I used this. http://power-tools.hardwarestore.com/63-378-hobby-bits-carving/dremel-carbon-cutter-661359.aspx Lasts a long time and cuts great BW

Reason #21 to not drive by braille....

Not worth it. The SVX tranny would bolt up w/the EJ-EA adapter. Like John said, an EG33 can be usually had for about 800 or so w/shipping. Right now there are a bunch on E-bay for less. If emissions is not a big deal, I would look into a ET20TT or something like that to put into the SVX. You get the same power w/less weight. You also have about a foot of space between the engine and the radiator for all sorts of stuff like FMIC or bigger turbos. It really depends on your how skilled you are at wrenching and wiring. bW