s'ko

just wanted to verify that you are using a matching clutch to the tranny and not an EJ clutch.

what does he need help with. I mostly know of shops in South Bay area and in Orange County. Brightside Motors in Torrance, 310-864-7526 ask for Chris HB Speed in Huntington Beach, 714-378-3966. jamal on USMB works there Renner Motors in Inglewood, 310-673-8492. Other USMB members who are close to Simi Valley Subi81 is in Oxnard tsutomu is in Camarillo. Hope that helps. BW

NICE....

you mean it's methanol and not methamphetimines.... darn. I was hoping to have my car lose some weight and get those cool dark circles around it's headlights.. you know like reverse angel eyes.

I am at a crossroads with this idea. Basically I was getting locked up front tires b/c I haven't driven a non-ABS car in a long time. I am learning to pulse the brakes and learning to be a little more defensive. That btw has helped my mileage b/c I smash the skinny pedal less. I was thinking of having my wife drive this car more often b/c it get's a lot better mileage than her SVX but we'll see about that. If she start to drive it more then I will look into the ABS retrofit, otherwise I will leave it as is. BW

interesting you mention this. I just found this site. http://www.turbomirage.com/water.html on really detailed instructions for a DIY water meth injector. also includes a parts list and where to get it.

So my lifter tick has not gone away. This is a rebuilt head w/stock bottom end. There is about 1500 miles on the rebuilt. I did not touch the shortblock. The lifter tick is constant. Used a mechanic's stethoscope and isolated the noise to the driver side head. pulled spark plugs one at a time from that head and the noise level did not change. Pretty sure it's the lifters and not the bottom end or piston slap. Tried using a little MMO and its still there. Plans are to change oil next month and put more MMO in there to address the lifter tick. I was driving to work today and I noticed that the engine was pinging when i am at 1/2 throttle and boosting. When I back off the throttle, the pinging stops. I am going to autozone to get some octane boost to stop the pinging, but has anyone experienced a knock sensor pulling timing b/c a lifter tick? Is there a way to test the see if the knock sensor is pulling timing? can I unbolt the knock sensor remove it from the block and then see if it's detonating? BW

looking good. my concern is durability. Plan in the far future to slap them onto my RX. Will be doing spirited driving on and off road and rally cross. Think they will be tough enough? BW

PM me w/your address. I have three of them lying around. Not sure of condition but you can have them, just pay for shipping. No need for EA81 parts since I am EJ'd now. BW

Nice work. BW

ok. So I did some review. Back brakes are about in good condition. Brake pedal is firm when pumped and the engine is off. When the engine is on, the pedal will slowly sink to the floor. looks like I am being a dofus and I need to learn to re-drive a car. I have a line up on a 1 inch MC from a lego. Thanks for all your input. BW

on a serious note. On my BRAT when a turn signal goes out it doesn't blink. on my OBS, it blinks faster. BW

The EJ swap is two basic components. The mechanical and the electrical. The adapter plate that Scott or RGuvyer sells are excellent and priced right. The flywheel redrilling is not that hard to do. There is a dremel metal that I found that works wonders. You are basically taking the holes for the EA81 and ovalizing them so that they will work with the larger EJ bolt pattern. If you have an EJ flywheel to use as a template you are set. EA81 clutch is ok to use, not the best, but I am having no problem with it holding. I think that there is also another person using an EA81 clutch as well. On the BRAT, you will have to ovalize the holes in the crossmember to get the engine mounts to fit. You will also have to make a pitch stopper, although my EJ22T RX doesn't have one yet. Then exhaust has to be done up. It's pretty difficult to make the exhaust to just save the money and have an exhaust shop take care of it for you. I got an Ebay muffler for $25.00 and had and exhaust shop make me 2 1/2 exhaust for $120.00. If I had a proper tubing bender I might try it myself next time b/c I watch him do it. Radiator might be an issue, but I used my stock BRAT radiator w/o any problems. The hoses are something that you will have to source. That's pretty much it in terms of mechanical. Electrical is tracing wires and finding out what goes where. If it's related to the ECU, keep it. If it's not, get rid of it. The scariest part of the harness work is when you have this big bundle of wires that you have determined is not needed and you have to cut them. It can be pretty scary b/c you get to thinking, what if I missed something. For the most part, do not trim any of the wires at the ECU plugs. Trim it at the other end, that way if there is a wire that you need, you can splice it. Hit up crockettbrat b/c he just finished this and see if it's something that you can do. If you are looking for more power, for the money you spend on the weber and stuff to make it go up to let's say 110 hp, you can EJ it and get 140.

i want the adjustable power band for my BRAT. :banana:

needs blinker fluid http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=6

for a D/R 5 speed, not a Fulltime 4wd tranny, the driveshaft only spins b/c the rear wheels are spinning. If you just remove the rear axles, then the drive shaft and rear diff will not spin. I would do that as opposed to removing all of the rear stuff. that being said I am not exactly sure how much improvement in mileage you will see.

I just got the RX resurrected w/a Ej22t swap. got the car w/o a motor so I don't know if this was a problem. I am pretty sure that the calipers are moving correctly. The car has good stopping power other than it locking up w/panic stopping. If I drive defensively and don't try to put the pedal through the floor, there are no problems. The two times it happened while driving was 1) on the freeway, car infront of my stopped suddenly and I was a bit close and i had to jam on the brakes. 2) on a 3 lane main road in the rightmost lane. cars in the two lanes to the left stopped to let a pedestrian pass. Stood on the brake and it locked up. Luckily there was no car in front of me and the pedestrian stopped crossing when he heard the screaching. One thing about the BRAT is that the bigger tire maybe giving more leverage against the brake and keeping the wheels from locking. The 205-60-13s are a 22.69 inch tire while the 225-60-16s are 26.63 inch tire. will check on the things you guys are talking about, but it's looking more and more like I will have to adjust my driving style or try to retrofit ABS into the RX. When I say brake fade I mean that the pedal pressure gives out. Brakes stop fine. BW

I realize that it's part of the reason that most cars not have anti-lock brakes. Part of my concern is that I have a BRAT disc brakes all around and it on 225/60/16s and the tires do not lock up under more extreme braking situations. Would wheel size have something to do with this? I have 205/60/13's. I will check when the brake fade occurs. If it's a bad MC, I have been reading that Legacy MC swap with interest. Caboo...when you say crimp the soft line, you mean bend it in half to stop the flow right? I kinda hope it's the soft lines b/c then it will give me an excuse to get stainless steel lines. Plan to take the wheels off today after work and see what the pads look like. I know the front pads were new and I am pretty sure they were clean. Rear pad age is unknown. It my just be adjusting to driving a car w/o ABS and w/o bigger tires. BW

So I have a pretty scary problem. The front brakes on the RX lock up if I do panic braking. I replaced the brake fluid and it helped a little but it still locks up. Seems to happen to one wheel and not both at the same time. Also there is no pattern to it affecting the driver or passenger wheel. The pedal is firm but then after I stand on it for a long time, the pressure goes away. The front pads are new, rear pads I have to take a look at, but IIRC they still had meat on them. This car has a hillholder, but it's not presently connect. Could that have something to do with the front locking up? Is this air still in the lines or are we looking at a busted master cylinder? BW

highly Recommended For Anyone Who Is Doing Swap!!!!!

Linky no worky....

So scott... how about you make some molds out of the Enkies and then cast some. I got an EA81 and some tranny housings I would like melted down and turned into wheels.

I don't have my neutral switch hooked up on the BRAT or the RX. no problems with the CEL. For the CEL I went into the cluster and made a might that reads ENG. I mounted my ECU in the wheel hump on the passenger side. Granted, I gutted my interior completely. No heat, no vents, no AC. It's a trail rig. don't need those things. BW

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO............. I was going to pick those up on Saturday...:cool: oh well, sure beats a 3 hour drive. Enjoy em BW

make sure that your cooling is up to snuff. I just made the drive from Los Angeles to Phoenix. Is was in the 100's and there is a whole lot of nothing in between flagstaff and NM. on a good note you will avoid the Rockies. If you need assistance in Los Angeles area on those day give me a ring, granted you will be about 100 miles north of me so i might now be able to help out much. Look on the members map at the top of this section to see who's around. Good luck w/your drive