s'ko

I was thinking of painting the RX a gun metal gray. similar to the color of the new USMB box. Then get the RX lettering in black w/red trim Like this RX

PK let me know if you are going to be there. I will have to try doublely hard to make it. Be nice to meet you and talk. I will also talk to crabman about going. BW

on my EJ18 BRAT I didn't hook up these wires 5 data link/cruise control 6 data link/cruise control 7 A/C relay box 9 a/c system 11 a/c system 12 inhibitor switch 16 neutral switch 17 test mode, neutral switch 23 a/c diode On the EJ22T I didn't hook up these wires. 17 main fan relay 18 select monitor 22 a/c cut relay again dealing with the 26 pin plug both ran fine.

just printed out diagrams for a 93 EJ18 and a 93 EJ22. EJ18 has 3 plugs to ECU, a 26 pin, a 22 pin and a 16 pin EJ22 has 4 plugs to ECU, a 26 pin, a 22 pin, a 16 pin and a 12 pin. just by looking at the 26 pin plugs, you are going to have to rewire ALOT. EJ18 pin 1 & 2 goes to bypass air control sol. 3 tach 4 VSS 5 data link/cruise control 6 data link/cruise control 7 A/C relay box 8 fuel pump relay 9 a/c system 10 fuel pump relay power 11 a/c system 12 inhibitor switch 13 main relay/air flow meter 14 & 15 ground 16 neutral switch 17 test mode, neutral switch 18 main relay 19 read memory 20 test mode, check connector 21 no wire 22 check engine light 23 a/c diode 24 ficd solenoid valve 25 ground 26 power fuse #14 EJ22 pin 1 & 2 idle air sol valve 3 & 4 no wire 5 diode 6 cpc solenoid 7 & 8 no wire 9 & 10 igniter 11 fuel injector 3 12 fuel injector 2 13 fuel injector 1 14 ground 15 ground/igniter ground 16 no wire 17 main fan relay 18 select monitor 19 check engine 20 & 21 no wire 22 a/c cut relay 23 fuel pump relay 24 & 25 grounds 26 injector 4 looks like a lot more trouble than it's worth. BW

+2 on the axle. I had an axle give way on me on the freeway. resulted in the same loud bang followed by no power and it a lot of noise. for a auto tranny if an axle breaks you are dead in the water. I had a front axle come apart on my wife's SVX (mostly b/c I am a moron and didn't properly seat the snap ring) and it wouldn't move at all. Take a look underneath and try to trace the source or your black goo. Look for holes or obvious signs of metal flying from your tranny.I say it's one of the inner cups that blew apart. BW

what he said +1. Here is what you are going to have to weigh cost vs time. If the scrapper is giving you a smoking deal on the engine, say 200 or less then it might be worth it to get the engine. Complete harnesses can be had on NASIOC or possibly on RS25. If he is charging more, then I would look for a donor vehicle. Also, is the engine complete, meaning coil pack, alternator and other parts are still there if not it can get pretty pricey trying to piece together all of the parts that you will need. You will need to get the coilpack, ignitor and the plug, MAF and the plug, O2 sensor plug, Fuel tank pressure sensor. I am a fan of a donor car. I did the BRAT by pieces and it was more expense than just getting a car. If you do get just the harness plugs, make sure that you also get the ECU and the plugs that go to that. That way you will have a reference point to start rebuilding. Some of the wires are shielded so you will need to go to radio shack and get shielded wires with two wires inside of them. Finally get a good copy of the wiring diagrams and have at it. You can probably post pictures of the plugs for help. Hey Chux, think it might be a good idea to add pictures of the various plugs in the next version of the tutorial. BW

Assuming 185-70-13 tire size 83-89 4spd d/r 3.9 final drive 3rd gear high 60 mph=4045 70 mph=4720 80 mph=5393 90 mph=6068 4th gear low 60 mph=3812 70 mph=4448 80 mph=5083 90 mph=5718 4th gear high 60 mph=2608 70 mph=3042 80 mph=3477 90 mph=3911 Assuming 185-70-13 tire size, 85-89 5 spd d/r 3/9 final drive 3rd gear high 60 mph=4632 70 mph= 5404 4th gear low 60 mph=5247 4th gear high 60 mph=3296 70 mph=3845 80 mph=4345 90 mph=4944 5th gear low 60 mph=4211 70 mph=4912 80 mph=5614 5th gear high 60 mph=2645 70 mph=3086 80 mph=3526 90 mph=3967 send me a PM w/your email and I can send you the excel sheet that calculates RPM w/the gears. BW

I uploaded the picture for those whose companies have photobucket blocks (like mine) Please let me know when you plan to get it bored out. I called around my area and a machine shop said that it would be mostly labor costs and he guestimated $150-300. There's a lot of soobie parts to be had for that kinda cash. You have to replace the entire gear set to get the locking center diff in there? If that is the case, you are stuck w/ 3.7? There has got to be a way to remove the pinion and put a 3.9 onto it. I plan to split the GL10 tranny anyways b/c I need to get to the 25 spline stub axles in the front diff. Will take a look at them side by side so I can see what you are talking about. BW

Timing +1, Did you replace the fuel filters? do you have good gas in there? What is the condition of the carby? any vacuum leaks?

Yeah, it's coming from a single range GL10 box. do you have pics that you can post or send me showing what needs to be machined? Thanks BW

Can a full time center diff from a GL10 be put in place of the center diff of the EA82 5spd D/R? I was kicking this around in my head last weekend and before I tear apart two transmission I wanted to see if this was even possible. BW

I understand original. It's part of the charm of older cars. If I ever get an EA81 or older I am going to build keep it stock and work on learning how to tune a carb. Right now I am more in the school of resto-fying my fleet. Restore and modify at the same time. EJ22T RX = ridiculous fun. Last night I was driving w/my wife and had to get on it to make the intersection. I was about to shift it into 3rd when I looked down at my speedo and I was already going 55 mph in a 35 zone. this was from a rolling start of about 10 mph. My BRAT is also a lot more fun to drive b/c of the increase in power that the EJ18 give it. I skipped the EA82s so my knowledge is scant, I do know that it is best to keep it stock and well cooled. Oil cooler, fans, good radiators etc. re: smog, i have a stock WRX catted downpipe that you can borrow to pass smog, just make sure that you give it back so I can pass smog when I have to, mmmkay? What other mods do you have that prevent you from passing smog? re: buried RX, what if you told your father-in-law that some wanted to buy the RX? How much do you think he would sell it for? Then we could either try to resurrect it or split it for parts. It has to get a chance to go to subaru heaven where it's parts can be redistributed and not be buried alive. BW

+1000000000000000............

minus the sunroof, you have a twin of my RX. I am even in the process of making the hood scoop. Honestly I say keep it. For about $500 you can do an EJ22 swap and have more power than the stock EA82T. I am more then happy to make a road trip to get the swap done and prepare the harness for you. Depending on when you need to get it smogged, I might have a house by then so we can even work on it there. (hoping to get one by the end of August) So don't give up the ship.... er RX just yet. There are plenty of options available to you. BW

+1 on dropping the y pipes. Getting the O2 sensor off can be a pita. If you do happen to strip the treads, the tap for the sensors is 18mm and 1.5 pitch. Ace sold one for 12.00. Kind of a one use tool, but it works great for putting new threads into your 02 bung.

Your best bet is to get a complete SVX and take the engine from it. you could sell the glass and other bits to SVX owners to help offset the cost of the project. If you are going to get the engine and then get the harness and ECU and other bits, you are going to run into cost issues. Average cost of an EG33 on ebay is going to be $700.00 plus shipping. If this is a bear engine, then you will need ECU, harness, MAF, ignitors, coilpacks (100 bucks each), misc sensors. Most of these can be had at subaru-svx.net try to look for someone parting out their SVXi. If you can't get a complete car, I would reconsider getting the EG33. Piecing together an EG33 can get pretty expensive. If the engine needs to be rebuild the OEM engine reseal kit for $350.00. Cometic sells a set of headgaskets for $140 or so. Coil packs are $100.00 each at Autozone. Ignitors and throttle position sensors are SVX specific. I think that crank angle, cam, knock sensors, alternator, power steering, and MAF, can be gotten off of a EJ engine. wwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwDue to the cost of scouring the internet for parts to rebuild the EG33, you might be able to get the EZ30 motor w/Harness & ECU.c

tried shaking the wheel. no horn. crazy thing is that this happened right after i changed out the rear struts & brakes. seems like everytime i address one thing something else goes out or acts up. not sure what motor mounts have to do w/horns, but i have sti group n mount bw

87 rx horn is going haywire on me. sometimes with acceleration, it will start blowing. according to my wire diagrams the horn has a switched ground. something is completing the circuit. the horn doesn't go off when i push the pedal w/the engine off. i also cannot get it to blow by rocking the car. anyone have this happen? anyone know of a priest the will exorcise the demons? thanks bw

scored a VSS from outbackusjunkus. Test fitted it to an EA82 D/R tranny. threads on so it appears that it's good to go to make the cable speedo digital. BW

This one's the real deal. http://www.htautos.co.uk/8.html?frm_data1=17&frm_data1_type=all

I am reluctant to call it a t-belt problem b/c it ran really good before the ground problem developed. It passed smog and pulled strong all day long. Sunday will tell me more about what is going on. BW

not sure. it's the one that was on the 200k motor I got. Will check it when I get home new belt and pulleys with the rebuild. pretty sure they are dead on, but I can always check have new OEM style filter and running new denso plugs, wires unknown, will look into replace them. Will add them to my list of items to check BW

The saga continues: The gaggle of CELs have been cleared. Engine is still running erratically. In first gear it would accelerate and then hiccup at around 4k-5k rpm and then continue to accelerate. Doing a corner and downshifting to 2nd and gunning it will produce stumbling. It would also lightly stumble a bit when cruising at freeway speed. Only error code I found was number 32. O2 sensor. I tried unplugging the sensor to see what it would do and the condition did not change. Replaced the O2 sensor last night. Initial test drive around the block was great. No hesitation and no bucking. I was a happy camper at 11:30 last night. This morning going to work. Felt very sluggish. I tried a full throttle run and the boost spiked to the top of the gauge and the car just made a lot of engine noise. I am guessing it was roughly 20 lbs. stumbling like a drunk sailor. The bucking got a little worse and I noticed a cloud of smoke behind me. Slowing down, I smell burning oil and the smoke started to bellow through the hood scoop. Pulled over and the smoke was all over the place and there was a huge pool of oil in front of the car. I am thinking blown HG, or worse rod through the block. I removed the spark wires from the coil and cranked the engine and there was no scary knocking sounds, maybe there's hope. AAA came and towed me home, when I looked underneath, I noticed that the oil return line from the turbo to the head had come lose. So this is why it was hemorrhaging oil before. Re-connected the return line and filled it w/oil. Started car. Ran ok. Revved it to 4k. No knocking, so looks like I didn’t kill my engine. Now idle is a over the place. It goes from 2k down to under 1k and then it jumps around to the point where it will almost stall and then it will recover. Took it for a brief test drive and it stumbles pretty badly while under 3k. Once above that, it drives ok. Will not go into positive boost. Ohh and the oil that was chilling on the exhaust/down pipe makes it look like it’s on fire. Where to start looking, Grounds are good. TPS? BW

the sawzall was used to cut the piece off over 3/4 of an inch. I agree that it is way to hard to get things accurate. The end product is adapter split in two. I took a grinder and a vice and some caliper and did the grind/measure grind measure. I have one piece done. Holes for the EA side are pending. RX has been giving a lot of trouble and I just got back from a trip to the east coast. Will try to get pics this weekend. BW

if you use EJ stuts, the bottoms will work. Tops are different so either re-drill your strut tower or see if the strut mounts can mix and match. BW