s'ko

hit me up when are you plan to do the swap. i have family in Vegas that i see about once every two months or so.

I usually name cars after the license plate 2000 OBS =Jude *jue*** 1982 BRAT =Bob *BOB***. The only two exceptions are the RX = Elvis b/c RX= is pronounced rex and rex is king in latin and Elvis is the King of Rock and Roll silver SVX = Slick. Wife named it. claret SVX = ZZZ or triple Z. We had invitro and three zygotes were put in. None took:(. Named in their honor. Names come to you. they can't be forced. Drive the car enough and it will tell you it's name. BW

There hope that helps people who are having problems reading the red font. Definately sounds like there is a problem with the pistons and the cylinder walls. Pull the heads and measure the cylinder walls. Hopefully it's just on one of the cylinders and not all three. good luck BW

I need to get the measurements for the three bolts to see if that match the SVX strut mount. I also need to diameter of the center part that goes through the strut tower. SVX's are here not equal on all sides. the Long side is 5 5/16 inches from the edge of the bolts, the short side is 4 9/16 inches. The center is 3 3/4 inches. Thanks in advance. BW

i put obs seats into my BRAT. the inner front mounting point i used the existing hole. i then welded an extending tab for the front outer and then drilled a hole to work with the existing hole. with the front secured, i noticed that the rear is not close to anything stock. i took drilled a hole into the tranny tunnel where the rear mounting tab was. i then used a large fender washer and a 10mm bolt to secure that part. for the outer rear i noticed that there was a big gap between the rail and the floor pan. i drilled a hole in the rear floor pan and used a piece of square tubing as a spacer. secured it with 10mm bolt and large spacers. overall impressions is that it sits kinda high. if i had to do it again. i would try the stock EA81 rails. bw

go to nasioc and look up the frankenstein built motors. There is even a cometic headgasket cut to make this swap easier and be able to handle the high compression. the are some people working on ITBs using the WRX TGVs or using motorcycle carbs. I think Nasioc was some stuff about that too. BW

the ej18 is a non-interference motor. i had open t-belts on my BRAT for 10,000 miles now. mainly b/c the end that i got didn't even have the rear mounting pieces. zero problems. never really taken it wheeling but its kinda hard to see how just road debris can find it's way in there with a 5 inch lift. going through really deep water could get sticks or other things that float, like lead or churches in there, but other than that, i should be ok. I plan to put then on someday maybe if usmb crashes again.

When are you doing the swap? I have an EJ18 sitting in my garage gathering dust. ECU and untrimmed harness are there too. If you are not in a rush, I have the EJ18 in my BRAT that will be evicted for something bigger. around spring of next year. They would included trimmed harness and ECU. BW

the eJ18 is non-interferential go no worries about busted a t-belt the ej18 is not a bad motor to play with.

keep at it connie. I feel the same way you do with the RX. One fix here... two breaks there.... btw it's 80 here:grin:

Two questions come to mind for this project. 1) Is this going to be off-road only or do you plan to smog it? If you plan on getting this to pass smog, you will need to either stick w/a stock EJ setup for find a “guy”. I have gotten two EJ swaps approved by the California Air Resources Board Referee and it’s not hard to do if you do it right. 2) How much work it will take to adapt the SPFI set up to the EJ engine and then put the disty on and then trouble shoot/tune it. If it’s anything more that 10 hours of time, just do the EJ harness trimming. My first EJ harness took me 8 hours to do. You seem a lot smarter than me so it will probably take your less time. Second harness took 5 hours and 3rd took less than 4. As I whole I don’t like to discourage people from trying new things. We each have things on our cars that are unique to our style of modification. Just want you to make an informed decision. BW

PLAN B is to take that EJ I have in my garage and slap it into the BRAT. But this is essentially a gender change cause your gonna be straping some big brass balls to it. You have to stop referring to the BRAT with female pronouns. Have harness and ECU will travel.... especially since you are 5 mins away. and have delicious homemade root beer...

depends on how high you want to lift it. Also depends on the model that you have EA82 or EA81. EA81 4wds have a height adjuster in the spring perch. Not sure about Ea82s. This will give you about an inch or so. Anything more and you will have to use lift blocks.

retro fitted one onto my 82 BRAT and I have another one sitting in the garage complete w/oem switch. saw another one in the JY about 1/2 a year ago.. that brings it down to 128:lol:

1.8 heads will not increase hp by much for a 2.2 but i have an ej18 in the BRAT so using the 22 shortblock would increase power. technically there's enough parts to build both.

Ok so I took inventory in my garage and I have a bunch of parts lying around that I want to play with. I have been enjoying the power from the EJ18 BRAT but as we all know, there is always a need for more power!!!!! Here's what I have. 2 EJ18 long blocks 1 set of EJ22T heads 1 EJ22 phase 2 short block 2 EJ18 intake manifolds The plan it so take the BRAT and drop it down to a 2 inch lift. Then take the EA81 4 speed and put in a s/r ft4 3.7 tranny w/lsd. I figured I might as well replace the engine while I am at it. So have enough parts to do one of two things. EJ22 short block EJ18 heads for a high compression N/A motor. EJ18 short block EJ22T heads for low compression turbo motor. Option 1 is probably the easiest b/c I will not need to get turbo related parts. Option 2 have the highest HP potential in the long run So what's the verdict? end goal is to get a decent handling possible rallyX desert runner BRAT.

Already posted on subaru-svx.net, but thought I would put it here b/c of more traffic. I got a SVX a few months ago w/a hole in the shortblock. Tore the engine apart this weekend and the connecting rod on the number 6 piston was busted. Will post pics later this week. Car had over 200k on it and it looks like it leaked oil like crazy. Underside of the car had about a quarter inch of oil caked on. I don't know the maintenance history of the vehicle. But judging by the rod through the block, probably not really maintained. :-\ So i have lined up a shortblock for it. I was originally planning to just replace the shortblock and headgaskets and call it done. But after reading a bit on the Subaru SVX network, I am thinking a complete rebuild might be in order. Here are some questions. 1) I found a timing belt kit from E-bay for 189.99. This includes pulleys and gears. Do I need new pulleys and gears? I know that the EG33 is basically a EJ22 motor on steroids so would the idle pulleys and gears work form the EJ kit? From the parts Ej18 I have, the timing belt idles and stuff look the same. 2) Complete gasket kit is $240.83 from subaruparts.com. Once again, would parts from the EJ22 kit work as well. I do plan to get cometic gaskets for the rebuild. So the EJ sealing kit is like $64.00 and cometic gaskets are $131.18. 3) Do I need new head bolts? Mine are from a car w/200k on the ticker. 4) I am not sure of the condition of the new shortblock. Should I do a complete rebuild that? If so are just new bearings and rings enough or do I need to go all out and do rods and pistons too. Thanks for the input BW

year depends on smog in your area. If you don't care, then any year is good. OBD2's have more sensors that need to be swapped over like the fuel tank pressure sensors and stuff. If you don't then you will have a bunch of check engine lights. OBS1 has less sensors and is pretty straightforward. So 1990-1995 legacy's and impreza's for OBD1, 1996 and newer for OBD2 BW

Yeah.. I caught that in the other thread as well. Now just don't end up selling it like your RX....

daniel one other thing to consider is that the ECU might be still learning the car. When I started driving the EJ22T RX for the first time, I was told to let it warm up and then low idle a few times w/o touching the gas. Will look at my info too see if I can spot the idle solenoid for you. BW

good to see you are making good progress. BTW, feed me beer and food and I will help you out with the repair bw

here is another thought... will the bottom of an EA82 strut fit the EA81 knuckle? I currently have 5 lug stuff on the BRAT, but I am thinking of putting that onto the RX and running 4 lug stuff on the BRAT. BW

hmmm... that sucks. One good note... I am really really really happy to have AAA. Saved my butt this weekend.

The front knuckle on the RX broke where the strut bolts on during a rally cross run. I have a set of BRAT front knuckles. Will this bolt on? thanks BW

as interesting as twin engined scirroccos and tiburons are, let's keep to the point of the OP. That being a MIDENGINED RWD/or AWD BRAT BTW, two ea81s at 160 HP total vs. 1 EJ20 = 230 HP. Even 2 EJ22s at 280 HP total vs. 1 STi EJ25 = 300 HP. Now 2 EJ20s at 460 HP total that might be interesting. But then again I have a friend w/an EJ20 20G that has 310 WHP. so it's still faster and twice the weight and complexity. Complexity is not worth the HP gains. Thanks BW