s'ko

Finally... here are some pictures. here is the engine. intercooler: Tribute to C. McRae wheels and 205-60-13 tires hood scoop from inside the car side shot exhaust. (the silencer is still in there. otherwise it's a 2.5 all the way thru

thought i would give this a bump. I am not any closer to getting this projected started and probably will not be for a few years, but...... I am trying to work out some of the kinks and get the info while it's avaliable from some of the finest problems-solvers in the world. yeah for USMB. Ok so here is what I have thought of so far. Engine would be mounted into a hole cut into the bed of the BRAT. The torsion bar suspension set up would be removed and a new engine/tranny crossmember would be installed. Since I am removing the rear suspension mounts, it might be possible to use an EJ engine crossmember and then use EJ front control a arms. That would make it possible for 5 lug stuff in the rear. Heck I can even get psycho and do 4 wheel steering. Shifting would have to be handled by some sort of cable set up. That would get it around the engine. It would basically consists of 4 cables attached to the end of the shifter. The shifter rod basically moves in 4 directions. forward, backwards and left rotation and right rotation. If you shift into 1st gear the rod rotates left and pulls out. On the shift lever side, the cable would be connected under the pivot. On the tranny, the cables would connected to a collar that is connected to the shifter rod. This should allow for the same movement types you would get w/the shift lever. 1st gear would pull the Left cable and then pull the forward cable. These would need to be hooked up to the collar so that this motion would translate into proper shifting movement. There obvious needs to be fine tuning in this system before it's implemented on the road. Here is a relatively new idea that I have been kicking around. AWD midengine BRAT. So, if the back wheels are powered by the front stub axles, could a divorced T-case be put in to put power to a front diff? It would basically go from the rear output to the t-case and then go back forward. The rear output of the t-case would not be used. I don't want to lift the BRAT and I also don't want that drive shaft to get caught up on a speed bump so I thought about rotating the t-case 90degrees, but it might get in the way of the suspension and the axle powering the rear wheel. Rotate it any more and the driveshaft would go into the cabin and be at a very high unusable angle (not to mention dangerous) Any ideas on how to get this to work? Also for those who have a divorced t-case how long does it measure? and how tall is it. Like I said in the beginnig of the post, this is more of a theoretical, academic discussion than post about building this beast.

nah... you don't need an engine crane, just get a friend and lift it out. Now you really need the wiring harness hacked

TTT Chuks... how many inches of lift your friend have? I am looking to replace my rear shocks soon b/c they are way too soft. I have a 5 inch lift, but plan to redo it to 4. BW

You can buy the gaskets straight from the maker. Cometic.com. If you are ordering it for the frankenmotor, just tell them that and they will be able to help you. One thing to remember. The headgasket holes are not perfectly matched. I had to round out some of the holes for the water jacket to make it work right. The key is to take the old gaskets and line it up w/your new gasket to make sure the holes line up. If they don't, then take a look at the block/head to see where those holes go. I dremel bits and some small files will help with getting the hole to right size. Just make sure that you deburr the holes so that it will compress right. Re: injectors. IIRC, the EJ22T are 370cc. The EJ18's are i think less than 200. not sure. One thing that you can do to the EJ18's is to take some of those micro drill bits and enlarge the holes at the ends of the injectors. Take a set out and look at them and you will see what I am talking about. I have a set of Yellow 550's from a newer STi and the injectors are almost the same except the 550's holes at the end of the injectors are larger. Or you can find a set of 550's and use the EJ18 fuel rails to bolt them to the EJ22T manifold. While you are at it, it might not be a bad idea to make parallel fuel circuits. The stock fuel system is a series circuit. It goes from the driver's side bank to the passenger's side. On high powered and turbo applications there are some problems with the the last cylinder on the passenger's side running lean b/c it's the last one in the circuit. The parallel circuits would feed each bank seperately. You will need to get fuel pressure regulators put to the ends of each of the banks. Not a hard thing to do, but will ensure more stability in fuel supply to you motor. BW

HA... I call them eye gookies... Keep that baby going.

ok. Here are some updates. 1) gauge problems are due to a short or broken wire in the cluster. I will repair it eventually but for now slapping it around a bit helps it turn on. 2) I messed up wiring the memory wire for the ECU so that ECU was not remembering anything it learns while it was on. I got it wired up correctly and it's getting around 20-25 MPG depending of how heavy my foot is. 3) HVAC systems is blowing now. There was a disconnected wire somewhere. AC needs to be modified to work w/the EJ engine. 4) got exhaust connected 5) There is another thread about this problem but I was getting some really gnarly detonation and it was due to excessively high boost. I think I was spiking at around 15lbs or so. I re-routed the boost line coming out of the compressor side right into the wastegate controller and it's nice and happy now. 6) Can't get the car smogged b/c of lack of funding b/c there is no budget for California.

1/3 mile oval. What speeds are we looking at. Do you need top end or torque? One option is to take the 2.5 shortblock and bolt the 2.2 heads onto it. The end result if a torque monster. Do a search on NASIOC for frankenstein engines. The EJ22T shortblock that you have is the closed deck one and would be great for turboing or I guess you could run a high compression motor with it. You would have to get high compression pistons to do that. The 1.8 lifters can be put onto the 2.2 heads. They are roller rockers and solid lifters. with the High comp motor use some cometic head gaskets. They have a special pattern avaliable for the 2.5/2.2 head motor. RE: Tranny. You are pretty much stuck w/the FWD imp/leg tranny. I don't think there are any differences. In the class rules do you have to source parts w/in the model or can you cross models? ie for the imp, can you use leg parts? Not really a performance improvement, but this increases your pool of parts. Can you use parts from a 2002 WRX or are you limited to what was avaliable for your chassis years? Technically, the older imp's model years are 92-96 and 97-01. If you can manage to get the entire range of years for the GC body, you will have access to parts from the 98 RS. Bigger brakes etc. Since soobies are all like legos, you could take the entire suspension and engine from an RS and put it into the 96. This will give you better handling and stuff from a car that was intended to be for performance driving. Other than that it's pretty much up to you. Are you working w/a 96 sedan or a coupe? Coupe is obviously a lot lighter, either case, if you have the resourse and time, it might not be a bad idea to seam weld and brace the chassis b/c it's definately a lot flexier than the RS. BW

ok after some extensive googling, I found this: http://www.mysubaru360.com/TV/ this site that has the commericals, a 7 min promo video shown at dealers and two Japanese commercials. All downloadable. Let's get these saved onto here so that will be stored forever. That second japanese commercial has be best theme song..."young, young, young young, subaruuuuu subaruuu subaruu... ohh and the flying 360 in the dealer promo was AWESOME!!!!!!!! BW

that flute music was pretty painful to listen to. I also don't think it was a great idea to have the little suBARu filmed on the freeway getting passed by a semi. It's only then that you realize that it's not much bigger than the wheels on the truck Now the question is how do we get those commercials off of that site and stored here. BW

GD thanks for the help. Just re-routed the wastegate controller. It will now spike at around 10 psi and I have around 5-6 psi consistently. The 10 psi spike is when I put the skinny pedal through the floor really fast. It will then drop down to about 5-6 and stay there. No more pinging . Although 6 psi is a lot slower than 15 psi. But I guess that's the price I will have to pay to keep the temps out of the melty piston range.:cool: Now it's time to see what the boost controller is fubar. I might go with a manual one if I can't figure out what it's messed up. BTW I was not getting a CEL when it was over boosting. BW

check your fuel pump. before mine went out, it surged like that a couple of times. BW

Welcome to the Board It's nice to see other people take an interest in the older soobs. Most of the people who own the older stuff have them purely for utilitarian purposes. Don't know much about the EA82s but it would still be nice to get together and chat. what part of the LA area are you at? RE: the wagon wheels, call this guy and see if he still has some. 626 588-7188 or 626 487-9050 forgot his name, but he buys and sell a lot of BRATs. BW

one other engine light would be for the gas tank pressure since the cap is loose. Congrats on the swap and it's fine progress. You have definately thrown down the gaunlet in terms of swaps. Maybe next year at WCSS11 we can see we can finish a swap at the show... This would obviously require a lot of prep work to make it happen. Would like to participate in that but I am couting on having to swap other things by then... like diapers. (fingers crossed) . BW

thanks. One more interesting thing. I got my boost gauge hooked up and I think it's reading right, but with WOT, I am pushing 15 psi. Could explain the detonation. Anyone know how to lower the boost? BW

I am getting some pretty gnarly pinging on the EJ22T under more than 1/2 throttle situations. I tried using octane boost, but that didn't help. I have the engine being feed by the stock EA82T fuel pump. Is that enough to meet the demands of a pretty much stock EJ22T? Should I look for a fuel pump with higher flow? Thanks BW

don't think there are any 3.7 ej trannies. 3.9 are as low as they go.

OSH is a hardware store, like a home despot...i mean depot. bw

man that's like explosive diarrhea

THAT'S SWEET!!!!!!!!!!!! :clap: way to go.. RE: the washer from the subie dealer. There is no washer there in the first place. The crank pulley is held fast by the woodruff key and the crank pulle bolt. Since the woodruff key was messed up, I wanted to get something in between the crank pulley and the timing belt gear to provide a little friction. BW

I was driving on the freeway this morning and I heard a loud noise come from the front of the BRAT. Put it into neutral and reved the motor. no changes, put the car it in gear and there was nothing unusual so I kept going. Get off the freeway and I realize that I have no power steering. Pull over and I see that the crank pulley is wobbly and it threw the alternator/ps belt. yeah I know, the charge light should have come on, but this is my FRANKENBRAT and most of the gauges dont' work right.:-\ Upon closer inspection, the crank pulley is pretty messed up the woodruff key got sheared in half. The woodruff key slot on the pulley got enlarged and worn so that it doesn't lock tightly Go to autozone, pick up a new belt and I try to find a locking washer. All of the ones I find are too small. Get the pulley on and put the belt on loosely so I am atleast getting some sort of a charge. Head over to OSH and I continue to look for the locking washer. The ones that I find that will fit are too thick. I then stumble upon a rubber washer. I get it and put it over the crankshaft and then secure the pulley onto the crankshaft. Rubber washer compressed and fit snuggly around the timing belt gear. Got it back together and limped it home. YEAH for red neck ingenuity.... BW

Don. you might want to take a look at this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=79249 It ended up being the distry module. He ended up selling the BRAT, but it ran when Shawn sent him a new module later BW

Quote: Originally Posted by john in KY http://www.pullapart.com/Inventory/SearchDetail.aspx X2.. Nice picture. Looks great sitting out there in that field. BW

as a general rule, it's good to get new bolts everytime you do a rebuild b/c they are stretch bolts. BW

will these be available after the show? After you weld it on, how what do you have to do to get the holes drilled. I assume that these are only beneficial if you have 5 lug rears. BW