s'ko

How does the diff lock switch work? I heard that it was vacumm activated? How do you check to see if it's working right? Thanks BW

Went to my car after work and i connected the negative terminal to the battery. Took the O2 sensor and wired it up correctly and fired it up. it runs now. Not great but it will rev past 2k and it's building boost and it's not running rich. Took if got a spin and there is a slight hesitation at around 2k and then it pulls hard and takes off. Boost is building at around 4k or so. the EJ22T w/the 3.7 RX tranny is a beautiful thing. I have yet to take off in low range, but I can't wait. I will get a OEM o2 sensor later. money is a bit tight right now. BW

well I got my Sodium Hydroxide in. Now to call Mcmaster Carr and get the other pieces. BW

oops..... good catch... BW.

Wanted to share some great news with all of you.... So my wife and I are having trouble getting a little one in the bun and after trying for 3 years, we decided to try in vitro fertilization. The cost of the procedure is over $10k for two cycles. Well, my credit union approved a loan on my 2k OBS and we have enough to pay for the cycles. . Funny thing is I just paid them off last year.:-\ We should have our first round of treatments this August. I should submit it to subaru and have them do one of their "love" commercials. BW

I am trying to track down a problem on an EJ22T. I originally had a bad throttle position sensor (TPS) It would run ok, but it was rich. While messing around with the car, I accidently broke off the knock sensor wire at the plug. I stuck a thick wire into the plug and twisted the sensor wire as a temporary fix. Engine then started to run ridiculously rich. Burning my eyes with the exhaust and it would not rev over 2000rpms. I was also not building any boost b/c the wastegate was open and it would just go down the exhaust. Got two additional error codes the bypass idle air control solenoid and the pressure sensor and pressure exchange solenoid valve. I was not sure what was happening so I tried adjusting the bypass air control solenoid. I am pretty sure I put it back in the right position Later I went to the junkyard and picked up working TPS and a knock sensor plug. I put in the TPS and the error light went away. I re-wired the knock sensor and shielded the entire wire and the knock error went away. I start the car and it still runs rough. At this time there was no CEL. Later I get codes for all 4 injectors. Right now it will run and idle rough and I can rev it past 2000rpms and I get boost. But it’s still running really rich. Kinda stumped. I left the car w/the battery unplug today and when I get home from work I will hook it up to see if it will start. One other question, I have a bosch universal O2 sensor with three wires one black, two white. From what I have read, the black wire is the signal wire and the two white wires are the heated wires. Anyone have any idea how to connected it to the Subaru wires? From what I read in the FSM, the white wire is the signal wire for the ECU and the black white is heated ground and the yellow red is heated power. Does it not matter how the two heated wires are connected as long as they complete a circuit? Would a incorrectly wired O2 sensor case it to run really rich? Anyone have any idea what else could cause all 4 injectors to throw error codes? Thanks BW

But if you use average fuel comsumption over 3-4 months then use the HHO for 3-4 months, this is account for most variables. my data might not be entirely accurate b/c I work near a large community college and since it's summer session, I have have to start from scratch and collect before mileage while traffic is lighter. BW

simple answer... any EA82 engine and tranny combination. Complicated answer... any soobie engine tranny made. You might want to go over to the retro-fitting forum and take a look

So what you are saying is that if I pull off the electric clutch pulley from the EJ A/C and put it onto the EA compressor, the bearings will be compromised? please explain. I was thinking more of using a couple of tubes of quicksteel or maybe gorilla glue a rubber strip wrapped around the pulley counter-clockwise (compressor rotates clockwise. if the rubber is wrapped counter-clockwise, it will tighten with the rotation of the pulley) Yeah I know... this is really redneck fabbing, but isnt this what this place is about? I am not sure if the EA fitting will work with the EJ compressor. BW

Hey anyone in Vegas? I am going there this weekend w/my wife to celebrate her b-day. Will be there from Friday to Monday. Any cool soobie meets? BW

just bought the lye and waiting to get it in. Will be building the system sometime this summer. I have two other test vehicles to use with it. a EJ18 BRAT, a 1960's Chevelle and a 1992 Honda Passport. Right now we are gathering gas mileage data so that we will have a control numbers to compare things with. I haven't been keeping track of this thread, but I did read the link that was provided above. I am not trying to make an engine that runs on pure HHO or brown gas. I am trying to make an engine that is "supplemented" by brown gas. The main fuel source is from the gasoline that I am putting into the fuel tank. Using the electricity provided by the engine to power a small electrolyzer to make the brown gas that will then go into the engine and provide me with a more combustable vapor in the cylinder. All this talk about thermal dynamics is interesting but if you really read that PDF file about the HHO electrolyzers no one is saying that they are making energy nor a self-perpetuating machine. The power source that is being used to convert the water into brown gas is gasoline. Sorry if I am ranting, I am just getting a bit tired of trying to explain to people what this is all about. Maybe I should just build the unit and give them hard numbers... BW

Ok.. so the RX still has a charged AC system. I decided to keep it intact and now I am trying to use it. The RX AC compressor uses the old style v groove belt, the EJ crank pulley uses the flat belt with the ridges. 1) is it possible to remove the clutch pulley and put on an EJ type clutch pulley. 2) if that is not possible, is there a way that the v groove can be filled and made flat so that the flat belt can used? BW

is everything else stock? I failed smog the first time b/c I had tires that were too big. It made the engine lug. went down to stock sized tires and I was good to go. I think for the HC you can try some acetone. The NO levels might go down as well b/c the combustion temp will go down. http://www.smogsearch.com/index.php?page=faq BW

Will keep that in mind. Ok. So worked on it a bit last weekend. Something is wrong with the alternator b/c it is only putting out 9 volts and the battery is getting drained. It is the early EJ three wire alternator. I read on legacycentral that one of the wires is suppose to tell the alternator that it's ok to charge. There are three wires to the alternator and four pins in the alternator. One is white one is black white and one is yellow. From what I am reading, the yellow wire is the one that activates that alternator. Any clue on where it is suppose to plug into? The alternator pins look like this _ _ | | I will call the top row 1 and 2 and the bottom row 3 and 4. According to the FSM alternator page, you are suppose to test pins 1, 3 and 4 to see if the alternator is good. FSM wiring diagram have a picture of the plug [-1-][-2-] _[3]_[4]_ the white wire is on plug 2, the BW on plug 3 and yellow on plug 4. I need to verify that looking at the FSM, I am seeing the plug as if I am holding it towards me and not plugged into the alternator. so plugged in the plugs would look like this [-2-][-1-] _[4]_[3]_ That look about right? BW

well it firest up right now. Runs ok. I am kinda concerned that there is potential small block damage. There is a noise that sounds like really bad lifter TOD. I had the engine taken apart and redid the heads. The engine had 160k on it and was running when it was rear ended. It sat for a while. Here is the post about the engine and the noise that it makes http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80003 There was no bearing play when it was taken down. I put a semi synthetic 10/40 designed for older cars. Would a hew head require thicker oil or a break in period. Am I hosed.... I did take it for a quick spin down the road and it was really really fast. Hopefully I don't have to tear it down to fix the bearing. bw

So I have a set of STi 550cc injectors and I know that they will fit the fuel rail on a EJ18. So I looked at both injectors side by side and the basic difference between the two is that the 550cc injectors have bigger holes for the fuel to come out of. (duh) IIRC the EJ18 injectors are 280cc or so. So... if you get a set of EJ18 injectors, go to Harborfreight and get a set of those micro drill bits or a really fine diamond bit and hone out the holes, you can make 550 injectors or whatever size you want. I have a spare set of injectors and I just found an person who can get injectors cleaned and tested for free. I will take said drill bits and enlarge each injector with a different bit. Will log what bit I used and get them all tested for flow. Once I get the complete data, will post it on the USRM. BW

motor came from a rear ended T-leg. It came from cyberbackpacker. He posted something about having a noise in the motor but I think it has something to do with a sticking injector. I took off the crankshaft sensor and I noticed that it was not securely tightened so I think that is most likely the reason for the sensor error. The sticky injector I just took it and dipped in into some degreaser and put it into my wife's ultrasonic machine and it it now works. it doesn't click as loud as the other injectors, so i need to stick it more carb cleaner and let it dissolve more of the varnish. I think I have all of the issues resolved. Will be working on it this weekend and help to have it fired up. BW

tested the injectors for their resistance and they all read 12 ohms. So that means that are all good. anyone know of a cheap DIY way of cleaning injectors? Wife and I are saving money for in vitro so soobie modding is out the window for now BW

Just spoke to the owner. Said that he is expecting a shipment on July 18th. He doesn't have any soobie in stock, but he sells the front clip for around $1,800. That's CRAZY CHEAP.... "site bookmarked"

I tested the throttle position sensor and it was reading low so I adjusted the sensor and the throttle and now it within the acceptable readings for closed throttle. I took a 9 volt battery and I tested the injectors and #4 is not clicking. I have a set of 550 injectors that I was going to put in later. Should I install them now? Will that give me too much flow and make it run right? Will I need a bigger fuel pump to feed the injectors? The Purge canister solenoid had the vacumm lines hooked up wrong. Not sure why the temp is not reading right. It's connected and the wires going to the ECU have continuity. Will have to see about the resistance. Hopefully I can get these issues ironed out and get the beast running. Lastly I read somewhere about doing parallel fuel lines instead of series. Basically right now fuel goes from 4 to 2 to 1 to 3 and then back to the tank. The parallel set up split and send fuel on one route to 4 and 2 and on a separate route to 1 and 3. I think that the fuel pressure regulator is something that I will have to address. I do have a parts EJ18 that I can steal the pressure regulator from. So I would have a pressure regulator on the end of each injector bank. BW

I tried starting the EJ22t this weekend The engine cranks and lights up but then stops. I isolated the problem to the injectors not getting any fuel. Cylinders 1 and 3 are getting fuel, but 2 and 4 do not. Engine runs with start fluid being sprayed into the intake. So it's not timing or spark. I pulled the CEL codes 11 Crank angle sensor 21 Water temp sensor 31 Throttle Sensor 35 Canister purge solenoid. Engine harness has connectivity. ECU has good grounds How do I check various sensors? Anyone help out here? BW

The rod where the shifter knob screws onto is solid. The thicker part below that is not solid. So it just depends on how much you cut off.

Just to clarify something. 1) Did you ever drive it like that before the exhaust work? rev it to 4 1/2? 2) from what I am reading the exhaust you mean the muffler at the axle back right? 3) Is there a restriction or something reducing the flow of exhaust? another way of testing this is to take the car and remove the axle back and rev it that way. Don't do it for too long b/c the neighbors might get pissed and call the cops. What does it do when you rev it w/o moving. if it is a fuel/exhaust problem then something should happen while reving at a stand still. If nothing happens or changes while reving at a stand still, it might not be fuel and exhaust. It might be drive train related. Clutch, axle DOJs Good lucks. bw

mixthetoo is retrofitting rear impreza stuff onto a BRAT. last I e-mailed him he was not done. If you look at the new EJ rear suspension it's completely different and you will need some mad fab skills to make it work. XT6 rear hubs are pretty much the only was to go to get the 5X100 right now. I am working with a machine shop to make some 5X100 adapter plates. Will let you guys know when there is some that is viable. I guess you should also consider that the rear diff on all soobies are essentially the same. Slight differences exist in the way that the rear axle goes in, but that's it. BW